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27 July 2010, 20:10
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: gravesend
Boat name: curach/Earl
Make: seago/Lifeguard 4M
Length: under 3m
Engine: 3.3 marinar/10 hp
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 802
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How to connect a hose up to a 20 hp outboard
can t seem to see it on the manual,and it would be easier to do then try and pick it up and put it in a dust bin of water,,,,,,another question is it possible to get it coverted to an electric start? and would it cost me an arm and a leg?
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27 July 2010, 21:05
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: telford
Make: shakespeare
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 optimax
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 300
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have you got any flush muffs? to convert to electric start aint cheap try new plugs and a good clean of the carb, it should start after 1 or 2 pulls
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27 July 2010, 21:44
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: gravesend
Boat name: curach/Earl
Make: seago/Lifeguard 4M
Length: under 3m
Engine: 3.3 marinar/10 hp
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markg
have you got any flush muffs? to convert to electric start aint cheap try new plugs and a good clean of the carb, it should start after 1 or 2 pulls
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cheers mate got no muffs,so have to be a bin
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27 July 2010, 23:26
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thornbackflound
cheers mate got no muffs,so have to be a bin
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fill yer boots
http://motors-parts.shop.ebay.co.uk/...4&_sop=1&_sc=1
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27 July 2010, 23:46
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: gravesend
Boat name: curach/Earl
Make: seago/Lifeguard 4M
Length: under 3m
Engine: 3.3 marinar/10 hp
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy B
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Many thanks,,,,,,,i wont fill my boots up again ,my feet got wet,lol......quite cheap so ill get a set
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28 July 2010, 12:48
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#6
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Member
Country: Canada
Town: British Columbia
Make: Gemini
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp 2 str
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,151
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Not sure why you would want to convert it to electric start. Just one more thing to go wrong and leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. Rope starting a properly tuned 20 hp is effortless. If the carbs aren"t clean or the motor isn't tuned it won't start any more easily simply because it is electric start.
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28 July 2010, 12:56
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#7
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Madrid-Almeria
Boat name: SEPIA
Make: honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prairie tuber
Not sure why you would want to convert it to electric start. Just one more thing to go wrong and leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. Rope starting a properly tuned 20 hp is effortless. If the carbs aren"t clean or the motor isn't tuned it won't start any more easily simply because it is electric start.
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Plus 20% increasing weight.
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28 July 2010, 16:18
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: gravesend
Boat name: curach/Earl
Make: seago/Lifeguard 4M
Length: under 3m
Engine: 3.3 marinar/10 hp
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 802
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arh i see many thanks ,gents ,seems more agro then it seems ,pull start it is,too expensive and don t wan t more weight,and as said more to go wrong
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28 July 2010, 16:53
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#9
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prairie tuber
Not sure why you would want to convert it to electric start. Just one more thing to go wrong and leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. Rope starting a properly tuned 20 hp is effortless. If the carbs aren"t clean or the motor isn't tuned it won't start any more easily simply because it is electric start.
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I agree given the costs and hassle of retrofitting electric start that it is not worthwhile. However when you fit electric start to a 20HP it still has the standard pull start fully operational (as well as the emergency rope start) so is unlikely to leave you "stranded".
Yes rope starting is easy but there are advantages to electric start:
- do it from the console (no need to disconnect kill cord from person - go to back of boat - start engine - return to console - reconnect kill cord);
- its also right beside the fast idle and choke then so no need to deafen everyone while getting back to me seat, and then easy to repeat when you cut the fast idle too quick and it stalls.
- less effort - whilst rope start is easy on 20HP it does require effort which if you were doing it every 10 minutes (e.g. I think some people do this when drift fishing, or on safety boat duties) would get irritating compared to turning a key.
- it provides a quick warning that your battery is duff (or going duff) - rather than discovering at sea once the VHF stops working.
- if something is not quite right (e.g. fuel not connected or you've pulled the kill cord out by mistake or something stupid) 10 pulls on the rope will work up a sweat before you work out what's wrong - whereas electric start I barely notice. Presumably if the engine is a bit slow to start (old plugs, crap in carbs etc) the same applies.
All nice to have rather than need to have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by azzurro
Plus 20% increasing weight.
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That sounds a bit high to me. A 20HP weighing around 50kg is not going to need an extra 10kg for a starter motor etc.
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28 July 2010, 17:08
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#10
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Member
Country: Canada
Town: British Columbia
Make: Gemini
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp 2 str
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,151
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If you have a console set up, then yes, an electric start makes sense. With a tiller set up I can't see any benefit, especially if you don't need a battery to run other electronics.
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