Kyle of Lochalsh and surrounding area

[Steve509926]

In a few weeks we're off to Morvich for 11 nights, FM and covid permitting.
I'm just making some loose plans of where I'd like to go and what I'd like to see.
I'm planning on 5 - 6 days sibbing:-

1. Launch at Morvich, Loch Duich upto Eilean Donan, Loch Long back to Morvich.
2. Launch at Kyle harbour, out under the bridge across to Skye up around Scalpay back to Loch Alsh and Kyle.
3. Launch at Plockton, explore Loch Carron back to Plockton.
4. Launch at Plockton, out to Eilean Mor upto Applecross back to Plockton
5. Launch at Arisdale, explore Loch Hourn back to Arisdale
6. Launch at Portree around Rona and Raasay back to Portree.

Also plan to do some hill walking (climbing has been curtailed, knee injury playing up)

Any suggestions, changes, things not to miss etc, gratefully received.

[Fenlander]

Well having done the run Morvich to Skye bridge a few times and Loch Carron exploring out of Plockton I have to say quite jealous!

[jeffstevens763@g]

Crab salad at the apple cross inn ummmmmmmmmmm

[jambo]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Crab salad at the apple cross inn ummmmmmmmmmm

Trust you to think of food!! Understandable considering how good it is!! Hope you’re well Jeff?

[Steve509926]

Just hope the FM is true to her word for the 26th and the weather gods are kind 😊
David there was a part in an old post of yours when you mentioned a cross current coming out of Loch Long, any others you noticed which would be of help.
Good call Jeff, suggestions for places to eat would be most appreciated.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by jambo

Trust you to think of food!! Understandable considering how good it is!! Hope you’re well Jeff?

Hi Billy hope you and yours are well mate all good here yep spent a week at scourie over 50 years ago we had crab every day from two divers on the camp site,I still walk sideways to this day

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

Just hope the FM is true to her word for the 26th and the weather gods are kind 😊
David there was a part in an old post of yours when you mentioned a cross current coming out of Loch Long, any others you noticed which would be of help.
Good call Jeff, suggestions for places to eat would be most appreciated.

Plocton on has a pub just be careful at low water going in I usually hang a leg over the side going in slow.to be honest anywhere that sells seafood is a must.

[jambo]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Hi Billy hope you and yours are well mate all good here yep spent a week at scourie over 50 years ago we had crab every day from two divers on the camp site,I still walk sideways to this day

I’m fine thanks just a bit weary on my own but formed a bubble with son and family in Kilmarnock. Aye there’s a lot of good eating places around that area Plocton itself three or four. Cheers B

[The Gurnard]

Sounds like you have a plan Steve ..although a very ambitions plan.

Doing that lot in six days would require exceptional weather and possibly kill me of exhaustion anyway..so don’t underestimate the area and don’t be disappointed if you only manage half the routes..it will still be something of an achievement with long lasting memories. So here are my thoughs as someone who has done them in a small inflatable and know the area reasonably well.


From Safety..have a spare prop if you don’t have an aux. There are many reefs just below the surface that can catch you out. Take a PLB for emergency as a handheld VHF will be as much use as a damp flair in these remote areas. That is only my advice..so take it with a pinch of salt if you wish

Route 1 is the only area you will come across overfalls as the other routes have normal tides except where mentioned below. Worst area is around Glas Eilean and you don’t want to be in them wind against tide especially on springs. Close inshore can avoid the worst of the falls. Apart from that..no issues

Route 2 Dont launch in the Kyles Harbour..there is no where really suitable to set up a boat and launch. Instead launch from Kyleakin. Huge car park and beach launch from car park or slip at high water in the marina harbour. No tide issues but watch for the huge reefs off Pabay ..they extend just below surface for miles. Take care going through Coalas Scalpay especially if low tide as rocks aplenty with just a narrow shallow channel. (Now you see why I suggest a spare prop ? )

Route 3 ..IMO Plockton is too hard to launch from. Its generally mobbed with tourists and parking anywhere near the water is impossible. Low tide and its a long muddy walk from the boat to the street. Launch instead from Klyeakin ..its a lovely stretch of coast from there to Plockton. Loch Carron is easily within a days outin from there too. Its rather bland compared to the run from Kyleakin to Plockton.

Route 4 ..as above except don’t underestimate the exposure crossing to the Crowlins .. chances are you will not see many other boats..you might come across a submarine though..so be aware they can be active in the area. It gets bouncy quite quickly out there is the weather can be a bit fickle. Closes I have come to loosing a prop was on the reef north of Eilean Beg ..one of the Crowlins

Route 5 ..no issues except the narrows at Caolas Mor can be very tidal and wind against tide chops it up quickly..but only for a short distance.

Route 6..perhaps you have underestimated the exposure on this route ? It took me two years once I decided on that route, before finally getting a flat calm day to do it. Even then the exposure going round the northern tip of Rona was playing on my mind and Im used to it ?. Reefs extend far off the tip..its miles from anywhere and few places to land if in trouble. No boats to be seen but last time I tried I turned back because too many common dolphins constantly breaching and I was worried one could end up in the boat !!!

If you do go for it.. plan so you are going through the Sound of Raasay with wind going same direction as tide. The wind is fickle coming off the mountains and tends to funnel along the channel. Tides are reasonably strong so wind against tide is not recommended in the sound ..in a wee inflatable.

Just my thoughts ..other are free to disagree ..but I do wear the T Shirt of doing them in a 3m inflatable so I don’t underestimate the challenge.

Im certain you will have a ball regardless so enjoy what you do. Fingers crossed you get good weather..its very settled where I am recently.

[Steve509926]

Originally Posted by The Gurnard

Sounds like you have a plan Steve ..although a very ambitions plan.

Doing that lot in six days would require exceptional weather and possibly kill me of exhaustion anyway..so don’t underestimate the area and don’t be disappointed if you only manage half the routes..it will still be something of an achievement with long lasting memories. So here are my thoughs as someone who has done them in a small inflatable and know the area reasonably well.


From Safety..have a spare prop if you don’t have an aux. There are many reefs just below the surface that can catch you out. Take a PLB for emergency as a handheld VHF will be as much use as a damp flair in these remote areas. That is only my advice..so take it with a pinch of salt if you wish

Route 1 is the only area you will come across overfalls as the other routes have normal tides except where mentioned below. Worst area is around Glas Eilean and you don’t want to be in them wind against tide especially on springs. Close inshore can avoid the worst of the falls. Apart from that..no issues

Route 2 Dont launch in the Kyles Harbour..there is no where really suitable to set up a boat and launch. Instead launch from Kyleakin. Huge car park and beach launch from car park or slip at high water in the marina harbour. No tide issues but watch for the huge reefs off Pabay ..they extend just below surface for miles. Take care going through Coalas Scalpay especially if low tide as rocks aplenty with just a narrow shallow channel. (Now you see why I suggest a spare prop ? )

Route 3 ..IMO Plockton is too hard to launch from. Its generally mobbed with tourists and parking anywhere near the water is impossible. Low tide and its a long muddy walk from the boat to the street. Launch instead from Klyeakin ..its a lovely stretch of coast from there to Plockton. Loch Carron is easily within a days outin from there too. Its rather bland compared to the run from Kyleakin to Plockton.

Route 4 ..as above except don’t underestimate the exposure crossing to the Crowlins .. chances are you will not see many other boats..you might come across a submarine though..so be aware they can be active in the area. It gets bouncy quite quickly out there is the weather can be a bit fickle. Closes I have come to loosing a prop was on the reef north of Eilean Beg ..one of the Crowlins

Route 5 ..no issues except the narrows at Caolas Mor can be very tidal and wind against tide chops it up quickly..but only for a short distance.

Route 6..perhaps you have underestimated the exposure on this route ? It took me two years once I decided on that route, before finally getting a flat calm day to do it. Even then the exposure going round the northern tip of Rona was playing on my mind and Im used to it ?. Reefs extend far off the tip..its miles from anywhere and few places to land if in trouble. No boats to be seen but last time I tried I turned back because too many common dolphins constantly breaching and I was worried one could end up in the boat !!!

If you do go for it.. plan so you are going through the Sound of Raasay with wind going same direction as tide. The wind is fickle coming off the mountains and tends to funnel along the channel. Tides are reasonably strong so wind against tide is not recommended in the sound ..in a wee inflatable.

Just my thoughts ..other are free to disagree ..but I do wear the T Shirt of doing them in a 3m inflatable so I don’t underestimate the challenge.

Im certain you will have a ball regardless so enjoy what you do. Fingers crossed you get good weather..its very settled where I am recently.

Thanks for that Gurnard, really helpful. Spare prop is something I carry and I will look into getting a PLB.
I realise its an ambitious plan and all the conditions have to be right to do it. The two routes which will probably drop by the wayside if things don't go to plan are 4. & 6. because of the exposure to the North West.
Maybe a plan "B" if the weather is coming from the North West, would be to launch at Elgol. What do you think?

[Fenlander]

Yep great advice for you from Donny. I noted his comment...

"Route 1 is the only area you will come across overfalls... Worst area is around Glas Eilean and you don’t want to be in them wind against tide"

As novices in that area we were taken aback by the lively nature of the water passing north of Glas Eilean... similarly passing the group of islets opposite the Kyle rail terminal one day. The Glas Eilean channel looks quite undemanding to a casual look at the right tide times but the depth to the east is some 40m and to the west around 70m... but in the channel it shallows to 10m or less so the water is really forced up.

[The Gurnard]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

The two routes which will probably drop by the wayside if things don't go to plan are 4. & 6. because of the exposure to the North West.
Maybe a plan "B" if the weather is coming from the North West, would be to launch at Elgol. What do you think?

Yup..unless you have experience of exposure and going 4 or 5 miles off shore ..leave routes 4 and 6 out. Only do in flat calm so you have a chance of seeing the reefs off the headlands..if its choppy you need to go well out off the North on Rona to avoid them as you wont see them below the surface. A tip is always watch for places you can land in emergency as you go..as the cliffs in many areas are vertical and never ending ..but that is all part of the appeal of boating round Skye.

Nope..IMO Elgol is no use to you either..for the same reason as Plockton..its a small car park and mobbed with tourists who want to take the tours boats..so parking is almost impossible and I don’t think the tour operators will appreciate loosing parking space..I may be wrong on that assumption though as I never consider launching there.

Some good sheltered places to launch are at Ord on the Armadale peninsula which gives access to Loch Eishort and Slapin etc which is sheltered in the northerly winds. There is a wee parking area at Ord and a small slipway. Not so well known so not very busy with tourists. Or if you want to go further driving over Skye ..Harlosh area has a couple good launch areas to explore Loch Bracadale area. Broadford has good launch areas at the jetty for access to Pabay, Longay and Scalpay and that area is sheltered in the southwesterlys.

You have the right idea..Islands all have exposed and sheltered sides depending which way the wind blows. Dont underestimate how long it takes to drive anywhere on Skye though..a half day from the Kyles to Neist is not unusual..which cuts into good boating time.

On a windy day..the walk from Kilmarie to Camasunary is well recommended.. its stunning looking across at Blaven and the main Cullin. Also if you want an easy Cuillin..I would recommend going up Blaven..its very rocky..so only doi in good visibility as some serious drops on the way

[Steve509926]

Brilliant and priceless advice Donny, thank you so much

[Last Tango]

If you get into Loch Slapin a trip to Spar cave is a must. If you do that at high tide it's quiet because there's no "land-access". Harlosh....good slip onto the beach but don't take your car of the slip. The beach feels hard enough but it's like driving on marbles. Got a Landrover stuck there. However, following the coastline of Skye north out of Braccadale is stunning and just keep getting better. Vid from the North to South below. Loch Hourn is, IMO the most impressive loch in Scotland. .......Have a great holiday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dUMpRWWF5Q

[Steve509926]

Thanks LT some great suggestions.

Great video, but I think I'll give the trip North to South a miss, it's a bit to exposed for me in a small SIB

[Steve509926]

I've a question to ask and hopefully someone is in a position to answer it.
I have a feeling that my beloved may wish to have a day of doing nothing and being by herself.
So I have a plan in mind, to take off early morning to launch from Arnisdale across Loch Hourn to Barrisdale Bay, hike up Ladhar Bheinn back down to Barrisdale Bay across to Arnisdale then back to Morvich. Question is, achievable or over ambitious?

[Steve509926]

Hi LT, struggling to locate the slip you mean at Harlosh. Is it where I've circled on the attached pic? If I did launch from there, I would only intend to stay within that location, any problems you can see going from there to the Talisker Distillery and back? Apart from the obvious!

[The Gurnard]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

I've a question to ask and hopefully someone is in a position to answer it.
I have a feeling that my beloved may wish to have a day of doing nothing and being by herself.
So I have a plan in mind, to take off early morning to launch from Arnisdale across Loch Hourn to Barrisdale Bay, hike up Ladhar Bheinn back down to Barrisdale Bay across to Arnisdale then back to Morvich. Question is, achievable or over ambitious?

Its been a few years now but if I remember correct it took me just under 5 hours from Barrisdale Bay to Ladhar Bheinn and back. However I camped at Barrisdale bay. Your problem will be the tide goes out for miles as its only a few feet deep in the bay, so you will have to tie up outside the bay. Possibly as shown in this map.





The ground should be ok to walk to the start of the faint path that heads for Coirie Dhorrcaill then heads up the slopes of Stob a Choire Odhair ridge. You need a good head for heights but its still easier than going up the Stob a Chearcaill ridge as its a good scramble.

So if you time things..yes its possible in a day ..but a long day travelling there.

Have you considered the Forcan Ridge or Faochan onto Sgurr na Sgine ..both in Glenshiel so little travelling and excellent routes although again the Forcan Ridge is a scramble rather than a walk

[The Gurnard]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

Hi LT, struggling to locate the slip you mean at Harlosh. Is it where I've circled on the attached pic? If I did launch from there, I would only intend to stay within that location, any problems you can see going from there to the Talisker Distillery and back? Apart from the obvious!

I may be wrong but I suspect LT means the concrete access to the beach on the bend before that slip. If I recall there is a locked gate before the slip you show as its a working slip ?

Best slip is just round the corner on Loch Caroy ..on the other side of Harlosh. If you drive off the end of it..you will be in deep water.. so no slippery pebbles there .

Personally as LT said..go the other way out of Bracadale ..its far more scenic than going to Taliskar bay..however Bracadale and Idrigil can keep you amused all day as it is

[The Gurnard]

Bracadale Bay to Idrigil and a couple miles further on .. its stunning

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amTBMc6fPtU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hQS9Yk8TR4