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24 June 2014, 08:40
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: teesside
Boat name: magic
Make: humber 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: mariner 115
MMSI: 232012453
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,557
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[QUOTE=Max...
If, you really, really want to go for it then I think a 2.7m air deck and 6 hp is where I'd think the absolute maximum set up is given your very limiting circumstances. And sticking to rivers, harbours etc.
Check the guides on this site and the search facility for everything you need to know regarding gear, engines etc.[/QUOTE]
I agree totally I bought my 3.8 sib with the intentions of being able to chuck it in the boot of a car and get out on the water on my own whenever the opportunity arose. but the reality is my 3.8 sib is too heavy deflated and rolled up to carry more than a few meters on my own I certainly couldn't get it up a flight of stairs tbh you need two people to roll it up .the outboard mine is a 25hp i really struggle to get it into my freelander on my own and i wouldn't want to carry it far.we do manage as the mrs helps and its still a lot less faff on than launching our old speedboat .also as a new convert to boating in general you do not want to be going going out to sea in a small low powered inflatable on your own the coastguards are busy enough as it is
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25 June 2014, 09:37
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#22
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Boat name: Salty Cheeks
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: 20hp 2stroke Mariner
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D. Jones
As a complete novice to boat ownership I would like to chuck some questions up if I may, to find out if SIB ownership is a realistic proposition for me.
At the moment I live in a second floor flat - therefore no shed or garage access - but I do have a spare room. Further I drive a Golf sized hatchback (looks a lot like a Golf, actually - even down to the badges...).
So what I'm trying to determine is, how realistic it would be to own and run something along the lines of a 3m-3.6m SIB + removable hard floor and a 10/15hp 2 stroke.
Just how difficult would it be to get an engine in and out the back of a car? As far as getting it up and down stairs I'm thinking stairclimber trolley.
In addition, once the boat is out of the water should it ideally be dried off before it gets deflated and stored over winter, for example?
Basically I suppose I'm trying to find out of anyone else actually lives in the same sort of place with a similar sized car - does it take the shine off ownership, having to deal with stairs, no garage/garden, limited access to the car boot, etc?
Would love to hear from anyone in similar circumstances. I live about 7 miles from the Tyne/Newcastle, so have thoughts about launching off a slipway with some wheels on the transom and making my way down to Tynemounth and up the coast or whatever. What do you think...?
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Hi all
For the past year I've used a pegeout 106 van to transport my Honwave 3.5 and 20hp mariner around , so seats down no problem, flat and stairs if with a mate not to bad but hassle.its how keen you are at the end of the day.
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25 June 2014, 11:18
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Atakama Desert
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14
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Nice to know dave, thanks. May have garage access so that would make life a lot easier, although not a definite yet, but good to hear that you consider it do-able. Have also found a free slipway not too far away which has a filling station very nearby - so hopefully I can also wash the boat down if necessary as well as flush out with the water hose on the forecourt.
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25 June 2014, 11:52
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki 4hp
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 22
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Hi everyone. First post here so sorry to barge in on D Jones's thread but in a way I'm in the same boat so to speak! I do have a actually a boat but I'm a real novice about using it.
It's 3 metre Quicksilver with an inflatable floor and a Suzuki 4hp 4 stroke engine.
I have some basic questions I'm hoping someone can answer.
1/ The Quicksilver came with a short plank of wood with mitred ends that the instructions say is an engine attaching plate. So I guess it goes against the transom to protect it from the engine attaching bolts. But is it supposed to be fixed? And if so, what with?
2/ The drain bung has some kind of basic one-way valve incorporated into it. Can this be used on the water? I guess not if the stern is deeper under the water.
3/ I took the engine off the boat the other day and the steering swivelled in my grip and I nearly dropped it in the sand. Could there be a lever I've missed to lock it or was I simply using the wrong grip?
4/ Is there any rule of thumb to set the trim correctly and is it likely to need adjusting if a second person is in the boat? At the moment the adjusting pin it is at one end of the row of holes.
5/ I have a manual pump with a gauge. Are the gauges reliable/accurate? Only I didn't dare pump up the boat to the pressure stated on the valves since the tubes felt pretty hard. How much should they give?
Thank you for any replies!
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25 June 2014, 12:08
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: St Helens
Boat name: Wine Down
Make: Maxum
Length: 8m +
Engine: Inboard
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 934
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Hi, welcome to Ribnet, I will have a go at your questions.
1 Really need more info, a picture speaks a 1000 words, but I have never seen a removable transom plate. It could be a thrust board if its a airfloor ?
2 It is a 1 way valve, but in my experience they still let water in if you open it while on the water. Keep it closed and bale as needed.
3 There is usually a screw to increase/decrease the ease with which the engine moves, you were not holding it wrong, its just too loose for transport.
4 Despite a recent posters attempt to find a universal trim position, there isnt one. With practice you will find the position you use most of the time, but as you noticed weight really effects small boats. Start with the engine fully trimmed in (Nearest the transom) and work out. You will know when you go too far, the engine will cavitate and "loose grip".
5 Some work, some dont. The tubes need to be pumped really quite hard, like a drumskin (usually around 3psi). Get your self a battery powered Bravo auto pump, fantastic piece of kit and takes all the stress and worry out of inflating the boat.
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25 June 2014, 12:53
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki 4hp
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 22
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Thanks for the quick reply Landlockedpirate. The little exploded view of the plate shows it on the outside of the transom. But surely it can't simply be held it place by the engine fixings otherwise it will fall off every time you loosen the engine.
I have some folding launching wheels to go on which I suppose I could use to hold it on. Has anyone got any tips on fitting them? The transom has an id plate in the way. I've just checked and the mystery plate won't actually fit between the tubes!
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25 June 2014, 12:57
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: St Helens
Boat name: Wine Down
Make: Maxum
Length: 8m +
Engine: Inboard
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 934
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Nope, not for the transom. Its a thrust board, it fits under the floor towards the bow. There will be a pocket under the airfloor to slide it through.
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25 June 2014, 14:45
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Back to the 2nd floor sib for a moment.....
I picked one of these up (as in lifted it off the floor to see hopw heavy it wasn't as opposed to buying it!) when I was in for some other bits & pieces
3D Tender Superlight 290 - Duncan Yacht Chandlers
it is ridiculously light. The smallest one would fit in my ruckksack and weighs less than it would if I were off for a weekend's hillwalking. (I might be wrong but I think the storage bag that comes with it may actually have shoulder straps)
It's lack of weight means a 4 will likely push it along OK.
Yes, a petrol engine will hum a bit, but if you empty the carb before you de- mount it (close the fuel tap & run it untill it dies - then re- start with the choke pulled to totally clear fuel from the "open" passageways) Then drive home with the windows open & leave it in the car overnight (probably drive to work with the windows down as well the following day!) or get a bin bag in the house & tape it tightly round the leg.
Numerous ways to skin the proverbial cat!
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25 June 2014, 15:51
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#29
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Member
Country: Ireland
Make: Zodiac Mk I
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15 hp Yam two stroke
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave3235
.its how keen you are at the end of the day.
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+1
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25 June 2014, 17:56
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Atakama Desert
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14
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Thanks for the link and encouragement 9D280 and Boatnomad!
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25 June 2014, 23:50
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki 4hp
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landlockedpirate
Nope, not for the transom. Its a thrust board, it fits under the floor towards the bow. There will be a pocket under the airfloor to slide it through.
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Thanks for that. I will have a look tomorrow.
Re the original posters question- I find my boat in its bag only movable for short distances on my own. Mainly because of its weight but also because it's so large to get hold of. I do better with the engine. I find I can cuddle that and walk it up the beach or slipway. However when I first bought the boat we used to heft it up (inflated) on to the roof rack of her little Suzuki Ignis, the engine went inside and off we went!
One thing I have learned is that some engines are quite fussy about which way you lay them if they can't travel upright. This may not apply to two strokes (not having a sump) but my four stroke can only be laid down on one side to avoid the engine oil entering the cylinder via the exhaust port.
I'm lucky enough to be able to leave mine pumped up in the garage. I a agree that the hassle of unpacking/inflating/carrying probably would get to you over time.
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26 June 2014, 00:28
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#32
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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If you can move around a rolled up futon (or mattress) by yourself you have good idea what its like lugging a rolled up SIB around. Do-able but awkward and you might scuff up the walls in the hallways on the way up and down. Smaller would be better along with the air floor.
As far as the engine goes you could get one with a built in flushing attachment and avoid need to run it on muffs or in a bucket. Just hook up a hose and let it run for 10-15 mins. 9.9/10hp would be a max weightwise and an 8hp might be better. Maybe someone here could take you out and show you their SIB and how they manage the bits?
You would need to disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until it dies to make sure the petrol inside is completely gone. Otherwise not a big deal.
The actual fuel can would need to be stored outside in a non-living space, perhaps on a patio.
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26 June 2014, 02:23
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#33
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,100
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What happened to men today? A small inflatable is not that heavy, nor is an engine under 10HP. The boat itself weighs under 100 lbs, and the motor about the same.
Try scuba diving...cold water gear is heavy!
As I said in my previous post, I wouldn't want to store anything that smelled of fuel in my living space.
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26 June 2014, 04:05
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#34
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C
What happened to men today? A small inflatable is not that heavy, nor is an engine under 10HP. The boat itself weighs under 100 lbs, and the motor about the same.
Try scuba diving...cold water gear is heavy!
As I said in my previous post, I wouldn't want to store anything that smelled of fuel in my living space.
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You overestimate the size of the rabbit hutches people in the UK live it
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26 June 2014, 06:19
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#35
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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I know of someone who has a large trailer he parks in his allocated parking space which he keeps his trike in. I had a 3m air deck which i kept in the spare room in my caravan. Just became a pain
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26 June 2014, 15:31
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#36
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Atakama Desert
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transporterman99
Thanks for that. I will have a look tomorrow.
Re the original posters question- I find my boat in its bag only movable for short distances on my own. Mainly because of its weight but also because it's so large to get hold of. I do better with the engine. I find I can cuddle that and walk it up the beach or slipway. However when I first bought the boat we used to heft it up (inflated) on to the roof rack of her little Suzuki Ignis, the engine went inside and off we went!
One thing I have learned is that some engines are quite fussy about which way you lay them if they can't travel upright. This may not apply to two strokes (not having a sump) but my four stroke can only be laid down on one side to avoid the engine oil entering the cylinder via the exhaust port.
I'm lucky enough to be able to leave mine pumped up in the garage. I a agree that the hassle of unpacking/inflating/carrying probably would get to you over time.
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FUME
What is it with the time out on this forum? Just written a nicely considered reply to your post which, in fact, gave me a couple of ideas. And then pfft, gone.
Anyway, to summarise - these boat bags - built down to a price rather than up to a solution. So what I was thinking was something along the lines of making up a few straps with cam lock buckles or airline seat type buckles, that can easily be adjusted as well as opened/closed.
I've got plenty of 50mm webbing, buckles, even carabiners if required - the point I'm trying to make is, having a load of straps/handles should make it easier to grapple with and get up a few flights of stairs etc.
Thanks for raising the possibility of frustration re: inflation/deflation - maybe the marina I'd park near would consider taking the boat overnight the odd weekend. I can only ask.
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26 June 2014, 16:19
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#37
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Atakama Desert
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C
What happened to men today?
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Nothing (plenty wrong with the youth though...)!
I have no compaints with the weights being quoted, just want to be clear about engines in the boot of a small car - doesn't look like it's too much of an issue, other than fuel smell and the need to store that away from home, as you mentioned.
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26 June 2014, 16:26
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#38
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Atakama Desert
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack
...As far as the engine goes you could get one with a built in flushing attachment and avoid need to run it on muffs or in a bucket. Just hook up a hose and let it run for 10-15 mins. 9.9/10hp would be a max weightwise and an 8hp might be better. Maybe someone here could take you out and show you their SIB and how they manage the bits?
You would need to disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until it dies to make sure the petrol inside is completely gone. Otherwise not a big deal...
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I've just realised, I haven't included a fuel tank in my costs.
Is at least 10 min flushing out really needed?
Thanks for the advice re: smaller engine but I feel pretty sure that I want to take advantage of the nearby coast with a Cat C boat + 10hp 2 stroke.
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26 June 2014, 16:39
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#39
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D. Jones
I've just realised, I haven't included a fuel tank in my costs.
Is at least 10 min flushing out really needed?
Thanks for the advice re: smaller engine but I feel pretty sure that I want to take advantage of the nearby coast with a Cat C boat + 10hp 2 stroke.
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Fuel tanks are cheap (relatively speaking)
Don't forget the safety bits like flares, anchor, line, life jackets, and a handheld VHF radio, all that adds up.
As far as the flushing goes, actually running it with muffs on or in a bucket is better since the thermostat opens up and the fresh water really gets circulated better. The built in flushing attachments aren't as good at getting the salt out. So they need to run a fair bit to get a good rinse. I typically use my flushing attachment for 10-15 mins and then hose down the entire boat before putting it in the garage, on a trailer.
Lots of engines don't get flushed at all, so not its not mandatory. But it will last longer and run better/more reliably if well flushed after use in salt water.
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26 June 2014, 22:22
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#40
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki 4hp
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D. Jones
FUME
What is it with the time out on this forum? Just written a nicely considered reply to your post which, in fact, gave me a couple of ideas. And then pfft, gone.
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I know the feeling.. I belong to a couple of other forums and if my reply is going to be more than a couple of lines I put it on the clipboard (highlight-then ctrl key plus C) then if it vanishes I can just paste it back in (ctrl plus V). If I'm already using the clipboard for something else I even copy the text into an email just in case. (I apologise if I'm teaching my grandmother to suck eggs here!)
Good idea about the straps. The bag on mine isn't really even a bag, more like a stretchy sheet with straps. I sort of stagger around hugging the thing hoping nobody gets in my way..
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