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11 May 2023, 18:09
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lymington
Boat name: Zodiac Aero 310
Make: Zodiac Aero 310
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 9.9hp 4 stro
Join Date: May 2023
Posts: 2
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Launching wheels - when boat in water
Hi there,
I am new. Just got a SIB Zodiac Aero 310, hope to learn right from the experienced. Now studying how to install the Vevor launch wheels. Came to the conclusion that there is no way my Mercury 9.9hp can be in full range of rotation while the launch wheels are up and in-place. The wheels have to be taken off before the motor can be in full swivel. Is that right? Any one with the same situation? Am I right to think that, if so, I have to then think of how the prevent the wheels from dropping into the water when removing the pins, can't be too sure right?
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11 May 2023, 19:32
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,996
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Hi AWS and welcome. We can mostly fit transom wheels so the OB has full movement when they are flipped up.
I'd advise inflating the boat and supporting it off the ground then fit the outboard in its running position. Hold the transom wheels in what you regard as the best location and take a pic so we can see if any obvious solution comes to mind so they don't clash with the OB.
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11 May 2023, 19:40
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,108
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Welcome to the board
Do you have a few pictures to share of them mounted on your transom? A link to the wheels you purchased would be helpful as there are a couple versions.
Are they as far outboard towards the tubes from the motor as possible? You might be able to oval one of the holes if they need help clearing the tubes (Just don't touch where the holes would rest while in use.) Looks like they use quick pins in most versions. Might even be able to angle the bracket ever so slightly to tip them outboard when in the raised position. Another option might be to raise or lower the mounting height of the bracket to further clear the motor.
I would try to find a way to store them on the transom for convenience, storage, and speed of deployment for recovery.
Maybe some of the photos in this video will help.
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11 May 2023, 22:43
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Redneck
Make: Excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: 20 efi & 9.8 2s
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 3,497
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Hi AWS and welcome.
Of all the aspects of Sibbing, transom wheels have been the biggest PITA to me.
My second set of transom wheels (now residing in some recycling bin) also fouled the OB cowling with the wheels in the raised position and when the OB was on full lock. I think they could have been fitted 25mm nearer to the tubes so that the OB would have cleared the upright legs and the actual wheel would have just cleared the tube when raising or lowering the wheels, but it was a close call.
I'd follow Fenlanders advice and see what transpires.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but you have got the wheels on the outside? ie. away from the OB
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12 May 2023, 09:25
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#5
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,996
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There are so many variables with SIB and transom wheel differences. As Steve says wheels on the outside and swinging them past the tube is the limiting factor but if your SIB has short cones and/or the transom wheel legs are long the wheels swing past the taper of the cone and they can be pushed out wider on the transom.
A pic is everything here.
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12 May 2023, 16:12
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Notts
Boat name: Terra Nova
Make: Boatworld
Length: 3m +
Engine: 4stroke 9.9 Mercury
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWS
Hi there,
I am new. Just got a SIB Zodiac Aero 310, hope to learn right from the experienced. Now studying how to install the Vevor launch wheels. Came to the conclusion that there is no way my Mercury 9.9hp can be in full range of rotation while the launch wheels are up and in-place. The wheels have to be taken off before the motor can be in full swivel. Is that right? Any one with the same situation? Am I right to think that, if so, I have to then think of how the prevent the wheels from dropping into the water when removing the pins, can't be too sure right?
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Ello. I'm a new SIBber and have just recently fitted Vevor wheels (I paid 62 quid I think it was off an ebay vendor). I got a metal file and did a bit of extra deburring on them, though they weren't too bad. I still managed to fit one of the wheels very slightly on the p**s despite doing a good job of measuring out, it's my drilling skills that are lacking lmao. It's not an issue, just damn annoying whenever I look at it .
My boat is a 3.2m, I couldn't tell you exactly what size the transom is off top of my head. Because I only have a 2.5hp it has no reverse and I need to rotate the engine 180 degrees to get that. I don't bother and just row if I want to go backwards .
The engine is restricted by the wheels in up position. I've only put the boat in the water once since I put them on but decided I didn't like them on there in the upright position while motoring, I can't pull a tight circle and as I'm using them on rivers and canals I'm not into that.
So I remove them while using the boat and carry them in a bag in the bow for ballast. Removing them is easy. Inflatable tyres, right? If you lose your grip, they float. Put your finger through the hoop on the pins lest you drop them in the water while fitting/removing them. Only hold one pin at a time. You only have to remove one pin while they are under the water, the second pin you can remove after you pivot them up.
Putting them back on while in the water is a little irritating . I put the wheel horizontal in the bracket first and put the topmost pin on the leg through, then pivot the leg down and put in the other pin while holding it under the water. It's a faff but you'll be fine. Marking up guidelines on the legs and bracket to help guide you is likely a good idea.
I'm doing it again this Sunday (unless it rains), so I'll let you know if I lose a pin .
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12 May 2023, 22:12
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brum
Boat name: UTV
Make: Bombard Aerotec
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke 25hp
MMSI: 235933026
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croolis
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I'm doing it again this Sunday (unless it rains), so I'll let you know if I lose a pin .
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It's only a matter of time.
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13 May 2023, 02:05
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Notts
Boat name: Terra Nova
Make: Boatworld
Length: 3m +
Engine: 4stroke 9.9 Mercury
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinker
It's only a matter of time.
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<vague thoughts about cork balls>
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13 May 2023, 14:34
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brum
Boat name: UTV
Make: Bombard Aerotec
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke 25hp
MMSI: 235933026
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croolis
<vague thoughts about cork balls>
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Just have a spare pin, I lost my R pin for my launch wheels while launching through the shallows, a floating launch wheel alerted me to the impending trauma and, unbelievable, I found the clip, washer and bush. If I hadn't i would be still there now.
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14 May 2023, 18:55
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Notts
Boat name: Terra Nova
Make: Boatworld
Length: 3m +
Engine: 4stroke 9.9 Mercury
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinker
It's only a matter of time.
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It turned out to be about 44 hours after you posted this lmao. Just dropped and lost one in the water on the slipway today when coming in, in the process of attaching the wheels. I had a spare bolt anyway that would have sufficed but then my m8 pointed out that you only need one pin per leg to keep it in the locked and down position. So we were good.
Must find solution lmao.
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14 May 2023, 20:02
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,996
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I take the wheels off rather than flipping up but I always have a pair of spare retaining bolts in the toolkit for that day you go... plop... damn.
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15 May 2023, 21:36
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brum
Boat name: UTV
Make: Bombard Aerotec
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke 25hp
MMSI: 235933026
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croolis
It turned out to be about 44 hours after you posted this lmao. Just dropped and lost one in the water on the slipway today when coming in, in the process of attaching the wheels. I had a spare bolt anyway that would have sufficed but then my m8 pointed out that you only need one pin per leg to keep it in the locked and down position. So we were good.
Must find solution lmao.
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I'm sorry for tempting fate. Tbh I always carefully plan my launch but 9/10 it all gets a bit chaotic and I end up forgetting at least one thing if not a few. The joys of boating, so relaxing
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18 May 2023, 21:50
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#13
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Sofia, bulgaria
Boat name: Narnia II
Make: Honwave T38 IE3
Length: 3m +
Engine: BF20
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 21
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Hi AWS,
I also got a new airfloor SIB (honwave t38) and opted to make my own wheels as the ones available on the market didn't tick all the boxes. I wanted sturdy wheels that don't cost a fortune, and wheels that reach under the boat at least 15-20cm (didn't want to carry a trolley) and be able to carry the boat on my own for at least 500m. Wanted wheels with solid construction that wont twist, wanted wheels long enough that the outboard can be mounted straight and non-pneumatic wheels (always underinflated or about to burst under the sun) that will hold the weight without developing flat spots (typical for cheap PU wheels). So ended up designing and building the wheels in the pictures. Axle length is extra long, to be able to accommodate the larger wheels of the same type with 120mm axle lenght. The only drawback of the wheels is that the outboard turn angle is limited at least 7-10deg. In any case having good wheels that will make your life easier on the slip/beach is way better than having wheels that are just out of the way, but with inferior performance. You can always remove them and throw them in the anchor bucket if the turn angle is vital for what you do. I tried to limit the chance of loosing and R clip or a pin, by tying them with a string to a small carabiner attached to a bracket. Have couple of spares in the emergency drybag.
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18 May 2023, 22:35
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Redneck
Make: Excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: 20 efi & 9.8 2s
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 3,497
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Neat job Peter. I assume you have welded the box section to gain the angles on the legs? Are the stub axles loosely fitted through the box section or are they also welded?
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19 May 2023, 06:56
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#15
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Sofia, bulgaria
Boat name: Narnia II
Make: Honwave T38 IE3
Length: 3m +
Engine: BF20
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve509926
Neat job Peter. I assume you have welded the box section to gain the angles on the legs? Are the stub axles loosely fitted through the box section or are they also welded?
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Thanks,
Yes, boxes are welded at 30deg, although not by me, as it requires Argon gas and added material. All other machining was done by me. Axles are loosely fit as I wanted to have the option for easy disassembly and replacement if they get bent on a high curb or the wheel jams. Will trim them up 2-3cm If I decide to remain with the 255mm wheels. As I aimed for price, stainless is aisi 304 for the arms, axles and L brackets and total cost is 25 euro with the weld. Price of wheels is 15 euro p.p. Ordered pins, R clips and bolts from AliExpress. So total cost for the wheel set is less than 80euro.
Yes, I know 304 will develop pitting in the long run, but these are second set ot wheels I make from the same material (sold them withe the sib) and didn't have any problems for 3 years, while using them 2-3 weeks per year primarily in salt water.
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19 May 2023, 08:53
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Notts
Boat name: Terra Nova
Make: Boatworld
Length: 3m +
Engine: 4stroke 9.9 Mercury
Join Date: Apr 2023
Posts: 277
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I am going to drill holes in the ally box section that constitutes the leg of the wheel, on the facing that would be pointing backwards when they are attached to the boat, at the very top of the leg. Tie a line there and tie to the pins.
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19 May 2023, 10:17
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brum
Boat name: UTV
Make: Bombard Aerotec
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke 25hp
MMSI: 235933026
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Croolis
I am going to drill holes in the ally box section that constitutes the leg of the wheel, on the facing that would be pointing backwards when they are attached to the boat, at the very top of the leg. Tie a line there and tie to the pins.
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Nice idea.
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26 May 2023, 18:42
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lymington
Boat name: Zodiac Aero 310
Make: Zodiac Aero 310
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 9.9hp 4 stro
Join Date: May 2023
Posts: 2
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It's me again. Update. Working on securing the pins. Thanks everyone. There is so much we have to think on our own to solve problems. Make your own smaller wheels is a near idea. Next season's project for me.
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