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11 May 2016, 09:40
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#21
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,881
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>>> The aerotec was genuinely scary, felt very unstable and after a gust of wind lifting me as I jumped over a wave I called it a day. I guess its a boat that you can't really use 1 up<<<
To be honest one up with any air floor SIB, a 25hp and no tiller extension that's what you're going to find.
I wonder if you need to make a steering setup... it would transform your experience...
I'm inflating mine in the garden today to wash it out. I have three gauges... two Zodiac supplied (Bravo I think) and one bought as a Bravo. I will check them all for how they behave and report back.
I say that because I've not used the manual gauge for about 9mths so wouldn't want to mislead you.... as I said these days I just use the Bravo pump with its digital gauge to go a bit over and no longer recheck on the water.
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11 May 2016, 09:43
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#22
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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New boat - few questions
Sounds like the valve isn't being depressed. Look inside the gauge connector and see if it has a protruding knob (giggle) that should depress the valve when screwed into position... If not then there's your issue. I have a pump hose that has the right connector to pump up my boat, but similarly it doesn't have the little central knob so the pump immediately kicks into high pressure mode if I use this tube to inflate...
Seems odd that the pressure gauges are both not working, there's bugger all to go wrong with them really...
Dumb question, but you're sure you're screwing it tight onto the valve so that it realises the pressure into the gauge?
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11 May 2016, 10:28
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Maidstone
Boat name: na
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard 25p 2stroke
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigomery
Sounds like the valve isn't being depressed. Look inside the gauge connector and see if it has a protruding knob (giggle) that should depress the valve when screwed into position... If not then there's your issue. I have a pump hose that has the right connector to pump up my boat, but similarly it doesn't have the little central knob so the pump immediately kicks into high pressure mode if I use this tube to inflate...
Seems odd that the pressure gauges are both not working, there's bugger all to go wrong with them really...
Dumb question, but you're sure you're screwing it tight onto the valve so that it realises the pressure into the gauge?
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They dont screw in, they just push in using the connectors that come with the foot pump ( these have a little bar in them to depress the knob on the valves on the tubes (floor has different valves, no bar needed). Neither valves register unless you pump air through them and they both stop registering when you stop pumping air.
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11 May 2016, 10:37
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,486
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You can't sit right at the back of a lightweight SIB with a 25 and attack waves in a head sea in F3/4/5 and expect to stay the right way up for ever. You need weight up front and to be piloting mid ships (hence a *well fitting* tiller extension).
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/sib-tel...iew-68341.html
On the pressure gauge it's really easy to make on as per the link and you'll know at any time *exactly* how much pressure you have down 1/10 psi.
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11 May 2016, 11:14
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Maidstone
Boat name: na
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard 25p 2stroke
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max...
You can't sit right at the back of a lightweight SIB with a 25 and attack waves in a head sea in F3/4/5 and expect to stay the right way up for ever. You need weight up front and to be piloting mid ships (hence a *well fitting* tiller extension).
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/sib-tel...iew-68341.html
On the pressure gauge it's really easy to make on as per the link and you'll know at any time *exactly* how much pressure you have down 1/10 psi.
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Think I have the exact same tiller extension, it wasn't really necessary on the old zodiac (guess being heavier it felt more solid) but maybe I'll dig it out again.
Was surprised on that first video, after they flipped that boat, didn't expect them to be able to start it again.
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11 May 2016, 11:17
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,486
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RNLI have inversion proof systems on the engines.
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11 May 2016, 11:29
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanKent
They dont screw in, they just push in using the connectors that come with the foot pump ( these have a little bar in them to depress the knob on the valves on the tubes (floor has different valves, no bar needed). Neither valves register unless you pump air through them and they both stop registering when you stop pumping air.
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Okay, must be different to my Honwave ones... It must be something obvious though, surely, I can't believe the two don't work?!?! That's just bad bad luck!
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11 May 2016, 11:31
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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FWIW I wouldn't be without my tiller extension in my Honwave when at speed/chop and one-up, just too damn flighty...
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11 May 2016, 12:00
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Maidstone
Boat name: na
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard 25p 2stroke
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigomery
Okay, must be different to my Honwave ones... It must be something obvious though, surely, I can't believe the two don't work?!?! That's just bad bad luck!
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I think they're only meant to work when pumping air through them, so you use them when blowing the boat up.
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11 May 2016, 12:33
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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OK. The Honwave ones are like tyre pressure gauges, you pump up then stick the gauge on and it tells you pressure. My confusion...
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11 May 2016, 15:29
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#31
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,881
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Think there's a bit of confusion over what the gauge should do...
So for a modern Zodiac/Bombard both the suplied footpump hose and the end of the Bravo 12v pump hose are of a diameter that push fits in the Aerotec air floor valve. For the larger tube valves there is an adaptor which usually comes tied to the end of the OE Zodiac footpump hose and also is usually supplied with a gauge.
See my pic this adaptor can randomly come with or without the inner bar that opens the valve which makes pumping easier and also allows the Bravo 12V pump to stay in its LP turbine mode for longer.
The gauge supplied by Zodiac/Bombard these days seems to be a Bravo branded one as in my images. Note it has a non-return flap (should have anyway) with the port from the tube bit to the gauge being below this flap so if you apply pressure to the bottom of the tube it will register a pressure.
All my previous older Zodiacs would let by on the valves with the cap as a final seal. I've only just noticed my new Aerotec with the later valves is the first where the tube valves hold with no audible pressure loss.
So to check the pressures on the Aerotec today...
Tubes: As there is no let by on the tube valves you need to put an adaptor with a crosspiece on the bottom of the gauge push it on the valve and there's your reading. In my image I'd set the Bravo digital pump to 200mb and the gauge is very close to that reading.
Airfloor: The gauge pushes straight into these valves without the adaptor and because of the higher pressure in a matter of a second air leaking past their flap valve registers pressure. In this case my Bravo pump was somewhat randomly set to 720mb and the gauge reads 725mb so near enough.
So the answer is if your Zodiac supplied gauges have NR flaps... and you have the adaptor with crosspiece for the tubes you will get readings correctly shown.
NB: Of course these aren't the pressures I run with but I leave it a bit lower when in the garden in case the sun comes out.
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11 May 2016, 15:57
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#32
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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OK... Apologies, I was probably confusing the whole issue... The Honwave one is different in operation... Ignore me...!
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11 May 2016, 16:24
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#33
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,881
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Well it's not you Stig... it's that apparently Sean's gauges don't work as they should.
I must admit I liked that chunky Honwave gauge with its positive engagement to the valve.
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