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28 July 2013, 22:41
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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New member... Hello + SIB floor question
First... Hello everyone
Following a recent holiday in the Cumbrian Lake District, my partner and I rediscovered our love of being out on the water (we had a 'toy' 2.4m boat and a tired 4hp 2s before) so I recently acquired a lovely 2010 Tohatsu 15hp 4s and a chance-acquisition 2002 YAM 380s SIB from the same owner.
My first post in the forums is to request a little advice about the SIB floor...
The boat fabric/seams (etc) look in great shape throughout, and the aluminium floor is all 'there', apart from a refabricated ply section at the front. The previous owner informed me that the original ply section snapped across the middle - appreciably the weak spot where the large hole exists for clearance to the keel inflation valve.
Although the refabricated section looks OK, it's somewhat thicker (18mm) than I anticipate the original board to have been.
I won't be playing hard and would like to refabricate and replace the wooden section myself with a panel that more closely resembles the original spec (OK, just me I suppose). I'd happily purchase this section but unsuccessful finding an aftermarket supplier of this floor panel.
If anyone has an equivalent Yam or knows this boat, I would appreciate if they could kindly inform me of the floor-board panel thickness please?
Thank you in advance,
Brendan
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31 July 2013, 20:01
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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I guess I'm on my own with this one
Oh well... Thanks anyway.
Brendan
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31 July 2013, 20:13
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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If the original snapped in 2, why would you want to go back to that thinner ply?
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31 July 2013, 20:15
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stirling
Boat name: The Gurnard
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 4m +
Engine: mariner 25hp 2s
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,664
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Hi Brendan..Im a newbie to the forum too..so although I cant answer your question..as I dont know this boat... we can welcome each other ... so welcome to the forum from me
I could guess at 10-12 mm marine ply..as my Quicksilver 4.3m is that.. but its only a guess.
Enjoy your boat..it will get a ding or two if you use it well and put it through its paces .. accept that.. its all part of boating..especially in inflatables ..so does it really mater if its a mm or 6 out ?
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31 July 2013, 20:19
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan Townsend
I guess I'm on my own with this one
Oh well... Thanks anyway.
Brendan
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hi Brendan, and welcome to Ribnet
maybe you're the only one out there, but half the fun is finding just the part you think you need, good luck with the search. our old sib floor fell apart on a holiday on Loch Lomond, we found a local boatyard and he made us a new plywood floor, all in one piece so no more flexing, transformed the sib for the rest of the holiday
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31 July 2013, 20:44
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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Thanks gentlemen for your welcoming replies, knowledge and experiences
I was keen to replace the fabricated part and attempt to restore the boat to spec as the existing wooden thickness is a bit of a "lump" and unnecessary for what I need (mostly inland waterways, lakes, and Norfolk Broads). It just adds weight to the carry bag (I don't have the SIB on a trailer).
The owner reported that he was on holiday and the loaded boat hit a large wave, forcing up the bow and causing the wood to split across the middle. He managed to get the wooden section refabricated locally, but it was intended as a temporary measure and isn't even painted.
I'll probably be selling on the SIB next year as it was a chance purchase, and I'm a stickler for ensuring 'the buyer' gets what they expect and deserve. Of-course I can always throw in the existing panel if they wanted it.
As only an occasional boat user with something a little larger and more serious than before, it's good to find such a vibrant forum. Thank you again for your welcomes and replies, and good to be here
All the best,
Brendan
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31 July 2013, 22:21
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan Townsend
Thanks gentlemen for your welcoming replies, knowledge and experiences
I was keen to replace the fabricated part and attempt to restore the boat to spec as the existing wooden thickness is a bit of a "lump" and unnecessary for what I need (mostly inland waterways, lakes, and Norfolk Broads). It just adds weight to the carry bag (I don't have the SIB on a trailer).
The owner reported that he was on holiday and the loaded boat hit a large wave, forcing up the bow and causing the wood to split across the middle. He managed to get the wooden section refabricated locally, but it was intended as a temporary measure and isn't even painted.
I'll probably be selling on the SIB next year as it was a chance purchase, and I'm a stickler for ensuring 'the buyer' gets what they expect and deserve. Of-course I can always throw in the existing panel if they wanted it.
As only an occasional boat user with something a little larger and more serious than before, it's good to find such a vibrant forum. Thank you again for your welcomes and replies, and good to be here
All the best,
Brendan
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hmmmm......... that's how I started, with a 4mtr sib
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31 July 2013, 22:58
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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Hi Chris.
I've just seen the list of your kit.
I guess it's a slippery slope eh? Ohhh... What have I done?
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01 August 2013, 07:05
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan Townsend
Hi Chris.
I've just seen the list of your kit.
I guess it's a slippery slope eh? Ohhh... What have I done?
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oh yes if I was you I'd jus buy a big rib now n save all the moves up
still, you can have fun in whatever as long as you get on the water
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01 August 2013, 07:56
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Brendan, if you ever fancy a cruise through the Menai Straits let me know,always happy to show the sights, some great beaches nearby too
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01 August 2013, 16:45
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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I'd guess Gurnard is pretty close. 1/2" ply (marine if you can get it - waterproof glues and fewer voids.)
Seal it and paint it the desired color.
Another option would be to go with a stiff plastic - polypropylene, I'd think (PE might be a little soft.) If you really want to shave weight, a small honeycomb graphite panel would do the job as well (though would likely be pricey.)
jky
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10 August 2013, 11:29
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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Hello again.
My sincere apologies if I appeared thankless and ignorant through lack of reply. The scourge of demanding business I'm afraid, so just installed the Android app.
Thank you all for your replies. I found an ally extrusion in the bag that's clearly for the front board, the recess confirming 12mm / 1/2" board thickness.
I like the idea of a plastic board - particularly as there's a plastics engineering workshop just a few miles down the road.
Boat's gone off for a professional service/valet and extra handles for peace of mind and passenger security, so an opportunity to focus on the floor. The rivets in the composite sections look rather corroded, but nothing that a good pop gun and a bag of s/s rivets can't fix I'm sure.
Thank you all again for the good advice, ideas and inspiration.
All the best,
Brendan
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11 August 2013, 06:42
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: ShaarkBait
Make: Zodiac 3.6 FR
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 9.9 4-stroke
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan Townsend
Boat's gone off for a professional service/valet and extra handles for peace of mind and passenger security, so an opportunity to focus on the floor. The rivets in the composite sections look rather corroded, but nothing that a good pop gun and a bag of s/s rivets can't fix I'm sure.
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I would research the use of ss fasteners on an Ali floor in salt water conditions more to reassure yourself that you will not start to corrode the Ali floor due to galvanic corrosion. The Ali is the less noble metal of the two so will be the one to corrode if incorrect fasteners are selected. You may need to pay particular attention to the type of ss fasteners used as some types of ss will be less forgiving. Medium term, if you get it wrong, you may find that your floor around the fasteners has disintegrated.
TBH, imho best solution to prevent galvanic corrosion is to use a metal with same/similar noble properties as the Ali floor, ie Ali rivets. But not sure of their strength in your application.
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11 August 2013, 12:13
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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Thanks Ian.
Mmm... yes, you're right of-course.
I've seen a variety of aluminium rivets with zinc-plated steel mandrels, so I'm guessing that some of those, perhaps with a daub of zinc paint on application, should see me through for the remaining service life of the boat.
Thank you for your thoughts and suggestions.
Brendan.
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31 August 2013, 21:26
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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Well...
New board fabricated from high-quality 12mm marine ply. I took a punt on Dulux Weathershield and, applied with a foam roller, came out great! Has a nice non-slip texture too, without the coarseness of sand-loaded paint possibly hard on knees and bare feet.
I now need to find some 1/2" (13mm) screws to attach the ally extrusion to it. Can anyone suggest a good supplier of self-tapping aluminium or aluminium-bronze marine screws in the UK?
Thanks in advance,
Brendan
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31 August 2013, 21:54
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan Townsend
I now need to find some 1/2" (13mm) screws to attach the ally extrusion to it. Can anyone suggest a good supplier of self-tapping aluminium or aluminium-bronze marine screws in the UK?
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Kays Fixings on Fleabay
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31 August 2013, 22:25
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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Thanks for the reply.
If it's 'Kays Fasteners', they sell marine grade stainless self-tapping screws but apparently not ally or ally-bronze. They seem to be quite hard to find in 1/2" self-tap.
I'll be taking the boat to the open sea and mooring for a few weeks next year, so trying to avoid galvanic floor corrosion.
All the best,
Brendan.
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31 August 2013, 22:56
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Sorry didn't read properly just read marine screws and brain added Stainless.
And that'll be the folks. Bought a load of stainless bits from them recently.
Most of my experience with alluminium has been on WAFI masts. They tend to use rivots.
Stainless components are usually coated with duralac before being attached to ally masts but not sure dipping a self tapper in will work...
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31 August 2013, 23:22
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Yamaha 380s
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15hp Tohatsu o/b
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 22
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No problem, and thanks for the additional info.
I'll keep looking - maybe I can find cadmium plated or titanium from somewhere?
All the best,
Brendan.
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