Old Zodiac. I will try to save!

[Peter_C]

In the USA NRS is one of the better places to purchase from.
https://www.nrs.com/aire-pvc-raft-material/p1pe There is also a slightly thinner version which I use for overlays. https://www.nrs.com/aire-pvc-kayak-material/p8qc I wouldn't hesitate to use 7 year old material *shrugs*

This is my favorite glue, and will bond Hypalon to PVC or vice versa without issues. https://www.nrs.com/stabond-adhesive/pkjz

I quite using a roller after about one attempt at using it. Instead I use a tool I made, which is just a scraper tool I cut off at the bend near the handle and smoothed the edges, and rounding over the corners. Works excellent for pressing materials together and removing bubbles. https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-3-in...2972/311182366

A heat gun is a requirement for manipulating bubbles and accidental folds during glue up, along with removing glued fabric from the boat. Course scuffy pad and LOTS of Acetone help clean up the glues. If sanding you must be very very careful not to take too much material. Before reglueing you will need to abrade the material some for which 60grit sandpaper works.

[OutdoorFaruk]

Originally Posted by Peter_C

In the USA NRS is one of the better places to purchase from.
https://www.nrs.com/aire-pvc-raft-material/p1pe There is also a slightly thinner version which I use for overlays. https://www.nrs.com/aire-pvc-kayak-material/p8qc I wouldn't hesitate to use 7 year old material *shrugs*

This is my favorite glue, and will bond Hypalon to PVC or vice versa without issues. https://www.nrs.com/stabond-adhesive/pkjz

I quite using a roller after about one attempt at using it. Instead I use a tool I made, which is just a scraper tool I cut off at the bend near the handle and smoothed the edges, and rounding over the corners. Works excellent for pressing materials together and removing bubbles. https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-3-in...2972/311182366

A heat gun is a requirement for manipulating bubbles and accidental folds during glue up, along with removing glued fabric from the boat. Course scuffy pad and LOTS of Acetone help clean up the glues. If sanding you must be very very careful not to take too much material. Before reglueing you will need to abrade the material some for which 60grit sandpaper works.

Thanks. NRS is where i am going to order from. I am leaning towards
Clifton PVC Adhesive LA 4009, already have the accelerator and it is still in liquid form, which is considered still usable according to the manufacturer. I have Toluol made by sunnyside from NRS, it is too most likely still usable but it appears that PVC calls for MEK and that is also available from NRS, again made by sunnyside so i would order MEK. Acetone i can get locally, no big deal. Thinking about using a dremel tool to abrade the surface. I wonder if i would need to apply a second layer, lets say 3 inch wide on top of where the bottom piece meets the tube just to be safe. I have no idea how strong this glue would held, i am about 220 pound , plus a backpack...What would you say on that please?

[User name]

Originally Posted by OutdoorFaruk

Thanks. NRS is where i am going to order from. I am leaning towards
Clifton PVC Adhesive LA 4009, already have the accelerator and it is still in liquid form, which is considered still usable according to the manufacturer. I have Toluol made by sunnyside from NRS, it is too most likely still usable but it appears that PVC calls for MEK and that is also available from NRS, again made by sunnyside so i would order MEK. Acetone i can get locally, no big deal. Thinking about using a dremel tool to abrade the surface. I wonder if i would need to apply a second layer, lets say 3 inch wide on top of where the bottom piece meets the tube just to be safe. I have no idea how strong this glue would held, i am about 220 pound , plus a backpack...What would you say on that please?

An extra, wider layer would add a bit of strength in theory, but in reality if the glue bond is done right on the existing material then it'll be more than strong enough to hold.

You don't need a Dremel to abrade either. It's safer to do it by hand but a Dremel does come in handy for removing any stubborn glue that otherwise won't come off.

[OutdoorFaruk]

Originally Posted by User name

An extra, wider layer would add a bit of strength in theory, but in reality if the glue bond is done right on the existing material then it'll be more than strong enough to hold.

You don't need a Dremel to abrade either. It's safer to do it by hand but a Dremel does come in handy for removing any stubborn glue that otherwise won't come off.

i ll skip the extra layer for now then. Thanks for the dremel tip.

[Peter_C]

I would assume MEK is banned in your state too. Was banned in Cali long ago. Acetone will work to clean and prep the fabric for gluing.

Never used Clifton myself, so I can't comment, but Stabond works great for me.

When applying layers keep the tubes inflated, but not hard. They should deflect a fair amount as you push down.

[OutdoorFaruk]

I was able to get some MEK from local hardware store. After the test, ı have no doubt that ıt is PVC. I m going to gather my materials and wait for a decent weather window. I also need a second opinion on the roller hand tool that ı see beıng used for repaırs on youtube. I was told that ı can substitute other things but before ı order my ıtems, just wanted make sure that ıt ıs not an absolute must have tool to make the repaır. It ıs my fırst repair so ı m bıt nervous perhaps. Besıde the floor separating, the boat ıs ın great shape. Would be sad to fumble. Thanks

[OutdoorFaruk]

Originally Posted by Peter_C

I would assume MEK is banned in your state too. Was banned in Cali long ago. Acetone will work to clean and prep the fabric for gluing.

Never used Clifton myself, so I can't comment, but Stabond works great for me.

When applying layers keep the tubes inflated, but not hard. They should deflect a fair amount as you push down.

MEK was easy to fınd. I bought 1 quart. Wow, one light touch wıth a rag and you can see rıght away ıt preps the surface wıth plenty of grip for the glue to work.

[AndiD]

Hey, I am going through the exact same process. I ended up using HH-66 to save money compared to 2 part glues and for ease of application. I also added a 40 mil PVC overlay on the seams. I've only been out once, everything is good, but I'll wait to see how long it lasts. So far I am happy with the result.
Details here - https://www.rib.net/forum/f50/advice...iac-90529.html