One old guy's outings & kit (Aerotec, Yamaha 15 2T etc)

[tinker]

Nice pics, 45mm raise , does that minimise the spray over the transom?

[Steve509926]

Good to hear that you got out David and perhaps more importantly good that you didn't have to row back!

[Croolis]

<reads thread with interest>

[Fenlander]

Tinker see this thread I started in 2016 with loads of folks ideas and what my eventual and now long term solution was on my posts 69 to 78.

https://www.rib.net/forum/f50/aerote...sue-71528.html

I've had 7 different OBs on the Aerotec and they all would splash over the transom to varying degrees from a little to a waterfall into the boat with no packer or transom lift. In the beginning I just used small wooden packers I think around 20mm. They were just OK with the Mercury 15 2T but not perfect. Then the Suzuki 20 next wasn't too bad. But when I went to a new 4-stroke Mariner 9.9 that was unexpectedly shocking which prompted the 45mm lift.

The fact I've raised the transom by this degree is part of why I always bolt my outboards on, because the bolts go well down through the actual transom whereas on a larger lift the OB clamps are often only just on the the original transom material close to the join of the lift section.

When I changed to a Yamaha 15 2T first time it was fine on the 45mm. Nice and splash free and no ventilation in tight turns. The Tohatsu 9.8 also went straight on the 45mm and was a good splash free result. Now back to the latest Yamaha 15 2T still on the 45mm lift and it was totally free of splash on Thursday. No ventilation on the sharpest turn with the Yam OE prop and just an insignificant amount using the Polastorm prop. And that's in tight test turns down the estuary in my trials area, I'd never normally be making such moves at sea.

[Fenlander]

>>good that you didn't have to row back!

Indeed, nice not to hear that snap of the velcro holders as we deployed oars that time. I've always been one to look at the tell tale quite frequently but now every change in OB engine note due to wave action etc has me on alert!

[tinker]

Thanks, 45mm it is, i might have a 15hp by tomorrow, fingers crossed, i will fit my new wheels and drill the engine bolts at the same time.��

[Fenlander]

Tinker good luck with the 15hp, I won't ask what it is as I never tempt fate myself mentioning a specific motor until it's in my hands. Look forward to hearing about it though.

[Fenlander]

Now the Yamaha's had a sea shakedown I've been through a basic check service and changed the gear oil. I always want to know gearbox seals are OK and there's no contamination. I never have problems using the 250ml tubes with a nozzle filling from the bottom but you always lose a bit when snatching the tube and fitting the drain plug so I find the easiest way for a final top to level is a small syringe as in pic.

Whoever last tightened the Yamaha drain and fill plugs took them really tight so, something I've been considering on previous outboards, I bought and refined exactly the right tools for the slotted plugs as even a large screwdriver can try to skew off the slot. The T-driver is made for the film/camera industry and the bit is a standard type. I've carefully filed both to keep a parallel face until they just fit the slot. The T-piece is perfect for tightening... the bit in case they go really tight and for removal only.

[Fenlander]

I mentioned a few posts back if we carried a third adult a 9" pitch would suit better than the 9.75" we have now. New Yamaha prop arrived today so look forward to seeing how that goes.

I like a shiny prop.

Came from Marine Tech of Norwich who I've found excellent for OE Yamaha parts.

[Fenlander]

I've put this up for Tinker, or anyone else, who I think might be still using OE Zodiac transom wheels. Given the huge nuisance in losing one of the OE winder bolts for the transom legs at the slipway I always carry this backup of a 6mm eye bolt and eye nut. Perfect for emergency attachment.

[Fenlander]

Recent outing was our first at sea since last season and found I'd forgotten to rinse and oil my rescue knife that lives in my PFD pocket so it had seized. Time for a new one. Nothing fancy just the Gill type that's under £30. Cuts rope so much better than the old one which was a plain blade.

Very grippy handle, one handed operation to open and the blade locks. Well designed knife.

And that's it until the next trip to sea.

[Steve509926]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Recent outing was our first at sea since last season and found I'd forgotten to rinse and oil my rescue knife that lives in my PFD pocket so it had seized. Time for a new one. Nothing fancy just the Gill type that's under £30. Cuts rope so much better than the old one which was a plain blade.

Very grippy handle, one handed operation to open and the blade locks. Well designed knife.

And that's it until the next trip to sea.

Decent knife David, can you post a link?

Edit: Googled - Force 4 by any chance?

[Fenlander]

There are loads of suppliers but these guys as well as being online are a physical store we use yards from where we frequently launch.

https://marinestore.co.uk/knife-resc...9-j160224.html

[Brinormeg]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Now the Yamaha's had a sea shakedown I've been through a basic check service and changed the gear oil. I always want to know gearbox seals are OK and there's no contamination. I never have problems using the 250ml tubes with a nozzle filling from the bottom but you always lose a bit when snatching the tube and fitting the drain plug so I find the easiest way for a final top to level is a small syringe as in pic.

Whoever last tightened the Yamaha drain and fill plugs took them really tight so, something I've been considering on previous outboards, I bought and refined exactly the right tools for the slotted plugs as even a large screwdriver can try to skew off the slot. The T-driver is made for the film/camera industry and the bit is a standard type. I've carefully filed both to keep a parallel face until they just fit the slot. The T-piece is perfect for tightening... the bit in case they go really tight and for removal only.

Question for you David…. Why does anything nowadays come with the slotted head rather say a sunken Allen key or a bolt for less chance of slip or otherwise damaging the head.

[tinker]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

I've put this up for Tinker, or anyone else, who I think might be still using OE Zodiac transom wheels. Given the huge nuisance in losing one of the OE winder bolts for the transom legs at the slipway I always carry this backup of a 6mm eye bolt and eye nut. Perfect for emergency attachment.

Cheers.......I have some new wheels , the £31 ones posted on here and I must say they are excellent value and appear to be alot easier to operate when comparing to the OE Zodiac ones.

I now have a pair of OE zodiac wheels surplus to requirements.

[Fenlander]

>>>Why does anything nowadays come with the slotted head rather say a sunken Allen key or a bolt

I must admit I wished for an Allen socket when I found my normally capable big screwdriver starting to slip rather than turn the tight plugs out. I really don't know the reason but thinking back every outboard I've worked on from the 60s models to the newest designs like the Suzuki 20efi have had slot heads on the gearbox plugs.

Just a small added thing re the Gill rescue knife. I normally carry mine loose in my PFD pocket on a lanyard to a loop. But the Gill comes with a nice velcro closure pouch with belt loop on the back which gives options.

[Fenlander]

>>I have some new wheels , the £31 ones posted on here and I must say they are excellent value and appear to be alot easier to operate when comparing to the OE Zodiac ones. I now have a pair of OE zodiac wheels surplus to requirements.

When you get a chance put a pic up of the new wheels on the Aerotec, interested to see them. Re the old OE wheels they should fetch two or even three times what you paid for the new ones.

[tinker]

Will do, still in the middle of my outboard rebuild atm amongst some other projects. My 25hp yam went yesterday, sad to see it go tbh, great engine but needs must.

[Fenlander]

Time to upgrade my niche buoyancy aid to a niche lifejacket. For years I've used this Palm Hydro as below left which in my size is a 70N. Great gadget boy BA with its front pockets. My theory for the choice is because I go in the water to launch/retrieve and sometimes at mid point beach stops. I've also fallen back into the water a couple of times in the last few years over unseen slipway obstacles. So a conventional auto 150N is no use to me but I wanted a bit of extra support immediately on falling in so didn't want a 150N manual. Hence this Palm model.

However over the past few trips I've further considered my mortality when a bit out at sea in lively weather and thought I need more ultimate support if I'm facing a real crisis.

So to meet my very specific needs just bought this Baltic Hybrid which has 55N foam support then a manual pull 150N bladder if needed. A bit more bulky than the Palm but hopefully will do the job if needed for either a minor or major dip.

[Steve509926]

Like that David

Are those two small pockets on the Baltic?