Please help IDing Zodiac Fastroller - Page 2

Fenix84 · 29 November 2016, 16:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Here is the best I could do with brochure pics.

Something I did notice was the original 340 transom was rated to 15hp... and the current equivalent 325 is rated to just 8hp. I don't think they've downrated the construction... just realised these light transom air floors need more modest power.

Thank you for those pictures, they will do just fine!

Quote:

Originally Posted by office888

Pre-2002/2003 fastrollers had glued floors (the bottom of the boat)
After that, France moved to welding.

When they hit that milestone, almost the entire boat is welded. ALL air-holding seams are welded, the baffles are welded, the floor (zodiac patent), the transom (zodiac patent)...the only glue is used to attached the floor to the wood of the transom.

Usually the boats get trashed because the wood rots out. There's two patches on the corners of the transom, that are called either "pie cut patches" or "pacman patches". Usually, they start to leak water in to the boat after 5-8 years. People ignore it. Then the transom rots from the bottom corners, on up.

how can i tell if the boat i m looking at is pre 2002/2003? Were there any distinguishing features from those first original boats opposed to the 2005ish boats?

office888 · 29 November 2016, 18:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenix84

Thank you for those pictures, they will do just fine!

how can i tell if the boat i m looking at is pre 2002/2003? Were there any distinguishing features from those first original boats opposed to the 2005ish boats?

There's a HIN plate on the back of the transom.

Last two digits are the model year.

There's too many distinguishing features to list... Zodiac does model revisions every 3 to 5 years.

Fenix84 · 29 November 2016, 20:29

Great thanks, i have the serial number for the boat, i assume its the same number on the HIN plate.

office888 · 29 November 2016, 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenix84

Great thanks, i have the serial number for the boat, i assume its the same number on the HIN plate.

Zodiac has two "codes".

On the interior capacity plate, you'll see a code like SERIES : Z24017 , MODEL : WM SB 275.

Series = unique code for that model lineup, denotes a specific configuration of handles/logos/colors.

The HIN is on the back of the boat.

Fenix84 · 29 November 2016, 21:04

Thanks!

Found this on the net. In case someone else runs into a similar issue here's a link on how to read the HIN plate

https://www.ribstore.co.uk/cms-asset...iac-inflatable

Fenix84 · 02 December 2016, 03:27

So i drove a total of 6 hours in the snow to looks at the boat today, everything checked out so i bought it. There was just one issue but it wasn't a deal breaker and was hoping someone can help me out with it.

A brand new 2004 FR 340.

Here it is in the kitchen of my apartment, this will be its home for the next few days.

The crimp on the tube doesn't seem to be connected very well and leaks a considerable amount of air. Anyone know if this is a special zodiac crimp or just a generic one. I plan to trim the tube and re-crimmp the connection, any objections?

Fenlander · 02 December 2016, 07:52

Very nice. That's identical to the one I had and the same age... but mine was quite well used.

My hose was loose on both clips but the worse leak was from distortion on the base of the black plastic boss where it seats onto the stainless boss of the floor/keel. Double check this as a leak there looks like it's from the hose clip and can be deceptive.

As I said earlier I replaced the whole hose assy. But if yours is really just the clips any clip will do but bear in mind they shouldn't have sharp edges.

Pikey Dave · 02 December 2016, 13:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

to be honest theres a lot of wasted space in a tube that could be utilised. large tube lockers could be inserted at the factory made the same as the clam shell repair method [bolt and clamp seal]

Hold on a minute Jeff, surely all that wasted space is errr! Air, that stops the boat from sinking.[emoji848]

office888 · 02 December 2016, 14:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenix84

So i drove a total of 6 hours in the snow to looks at the boat today, everything checked out so i bought it. There was just one issue but it wasn't a deal breaker and was hoping someone can help me out with it.

A brand new 2004 FR 340.

Make sure the banjo fitting isn't cracked.

People tend to throw / drop the boat while it is rolled up, and it can lead to cracking in that area.

Z60094 - HPP KEEL CONNECTION HOSE SET
This is the complete assembly
Zodiac Replacement H2P Keel Connector

jeffstevens763@g · 02 December 2016, 14:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Hold on a minute Jeff, surely all that wasted space is errr! Air, that stops the boat from sinking.[emoji848]

not if its a sealed door dave same thing full of air not suggesting owt massive just as whats was shown just a bit more usable length wise.tube diameter could be increased slightly to accomadate displacement increase from kit stowed
do you remember the ospray's with the solid bows?

Pikey Dave · 02 December 2016, 15:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

do you remember the ospray's with the solid bows?

Yup, my first RIB was a 6.4m Mike Armitage special[emoji106]

Fenix84 · 02 December 2016, 17:57

You guys are right, after performing the soap test it turns out its the not the hose clip its the plastic valve piece. Great now i have get a whole new assembly. How durable is this and how often do people normally have to replace this?

Also anyone have any suggestions on where i can get just the hardware for the seats (the plastic piece that connects to the tubes). Most places online have the seat for roughly 100usd + shipping online. Id actually prefer to make my own seat since the stock ones weigh quite a bit.

On the subject of seats. How hard would it be to change out the bench connections to the new zodiac clip on seats? I would have to remove the old seat patches and put new ones on, anyone done anything like this? After installing the seat on the tubes i can see this getting really annoying each time i set it up.

Fenlander · 02 December 2016, 18:44

>>> How durable is this and how often do people normally have to replace this?

In my experience at about 10-12yrs so no big deal.

office888 · 02 December 2016, 19:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenix84

You guys are right, after performing the soap test it turns out its the not the hose clip its the plastic valve piece. Great now i have get a whole new assembly. How durable is this and how often do people normally have to replace this?

Also anyone have any suggestions on where i can get just the hardware for the seats (the plastic piece that connects to the tubes). Most places online have the seat for roughly 100usd + shipping online. Id actually prefer to make my own seat since the stock ones weigh quite a bit.

On the subject of seats. How hard would it be to change out the bench connections to the new zodiac clip on seats? I would have to remove the old seat patches and put new ones on, anyone done anything like this? After installing the seat on the tubes i can see this getting really annoying each time i set it up.

5-15 years depending how much you throw the boat around.

You have the old style seat, 97 thru 2003 (your boat is probably a 2003 production year, 2004 model year boat).

Seat Z1114. You can order the plastic brackets separately as Z3143.

If you wanted to change the "QWIK KLIK" seat, you would need seat patch Z60734 and seat bracket Z60560. It's probably not worth the hassle to switch it.

Most people do not use the bench seats.

Fenix84 · 02 December 2016, 19:07

Great thanks guys!

Fenix84 · 09 December 2016, 05:26

So i picked up the seat clips from my local dealer and made an aluminum seat. Wow aluminum weighs significantly less than the standard plywood seat. I wonder why the keep selling the plywood seats. Are there any negatives to the aluminum that i dont know about?

I also picked up the new hose assembly. So how much can i tighten this thing? Should i just hand tighten or should i use a wrench since the valve does have a hexagon shape.

Fenlander · 09 December 2016, 08:21

These hose end bosses seal with O-rings so once tightened by hand seal ok as the plastic face meets the metal boss but they will need some extra effort with a wrench so they dont't work undone... I hold the wrench part way along so there is only about 4" leverage and tighten until I feel firm resistance.

Re the seat... For me wood is a perfect material. If any alteration is needed or if it needs replacing (in the UK for sure anyway) wood is far more readily available and easier to work with than aluminium.

office888 · 09 December 2016, 13:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenix84

So i picked up the seat clips from my local dealer and made an aluminum seat. Wow aluminum weighs significantly less than the standard plywood seat. I wonder why the keep selling the plywood seats. Are there any negatives to the aluminum that i dont know about?

I also picked up the new hose assembly. So how much can i tighten this thing? Should i just hand tighten or should i use a wrench since the valve does have a hexagon shape.

Fingertight, then snug it ~1/8 turn with a crescent wrench.

Aluminum corrodes, and bends. Over time, it develops a gray/black oxide layer which will rub off on to your pants. It has its advantages and disadvantages.

jeffstevens763@g · 09 December 2016, 14:10

get your seat powder coated it will look better too