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Old 23 August 2024, 19:11   #21
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Country: Ireland
Boat name: 380S
Make: Yamaha
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallribber View Post
I am thinking this is not wise. Just leave as is and find a work around
Well I agree in a way. If they're not in the way then don't mess with them, but if they need to come off then they are actually removable without much hassle.

I've done this a few times when repairing baffles for example. It allows you to make a cut that will be invisible later on when the oar lock goes back on.
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Old 23 August 2024, 22:27   #22
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Country: USA
Town: Ogden, UT
Boat name: NoName
Make: BRIS + Aqua Marina
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki DF15A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallribber View Post
I am thinking this is not wise. Just leave as is and find a work around
"Not wise", as it runs out, happens to be my middle name!

I found some MEK online. The store in Utah (about 4 hrs away) wanted $35 to ship an $8 quart. The NRS store in Idaho (closer than the store in UT) shipped 2 qts to me for free. It showed up today...

So, I did what any other "not wise" person would do; I got busy removing the little buggers. If they were placed anywhere else, I wouldn't have bothered with them. However, they placed them on the tube in the EXACT place I need to sit when I'm driving the boat. Someone mentioned sitting on the floor. I do that when I'm going solo, to keep the weight balanced and the front down. When I'm with the Mrs. or towing the grands on a knee board, I like to sit on the tube so I can see, and because not having the weight on the floor lessens the drag.

Anyway, I used an oscillating tool to take the protruding parts off first, so I just had the pad to deal with. I used a small metal spudger (for opening electronics) with a heat gun, and the MEK. Once I could get the edge loose, the MEK did most of the work. My plan was to cover the area with a rub patch, which is what I will do once I get it all cleaned up.

I WILL echo what others said already. This was a royal PITA! NOT an easy job. It took me over 2 hours to get one side off, and that side isn't even cleaned up yet. Aqua Marina used some ridiculously STRONG glue!!! The edges were almost impossible to get loose! Even with the heat gun, the glue just didn't want to let go.

I'm half done so far, and contemplating whether or not the whole thing was worth it. Hopefully, when it's all done, I'll no longer be feeling this way.
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Old 24 August 2024, 16:38   #23
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Country: USA
Town: Ogden, UT
Boat name: NoName
Make: BRIS + Aqua Marina
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki DF15A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgoers View Post
I'm half done so far, and contemplating whether or not the whole thing was worth it. Hopefully, when it's all done, I'll no longer be feeling this way.
Decided to go through with removing the other side. I'm going to cover the spot where I removed the oarlocks with some embossed PVC wear fabric!!! Should look nice, and give some grip for my seat.

Here's the kicker though... can't get SQUAT in the USA when it comes to inflatables. I had to order the fabric online from the UK Ribstore! Go figure. You folks outside the USA sure have it good when it comes to accessing materials and accessories for your inflatables...
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Old 24 August 2024, 18:24   #24
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
Funny that as so often when I need a rare outboard part or physical maintenance manual they are always in the USA. Same for proper Wranglers too.

Good job on attacking the oar locks. I have made several glue on patch changes to my SIB to get it how I want, in my case adding/moving rather than removing, and it’s worth doing.
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