Repairs not working

[mike13401]

I have a really odd problem,in the shape of an old 3.8m Avon sport,which has a couple of leaks.
I repaired on of the leaks using Hypalon material and a tube of Polymarine Hypalon glue.
The first I followed the instructions to the letter, put one coat on both the patch and the boat,let dry then apply another thin coat on each,let it go tacky and stick rolling from the centre outwards.
I followed the same routine with the second patch.
Tested both and brilliant,no leaks.
A week later the tube started to deflate and when I tested,I found the second patch was leaking and in fact starting to lift. So I removed it ,somewhat baffled as this has never happened before.
At this stage the first repair was till fine.
I spoke to a chap at my local chandlers who said ,"I never do that,I just put it on both items and when its tacky I stick them together,and never a problem".

So off back home,cut a new patch,clean up tube ,sand and clean with acetone. Glue as above and stick. Tested and no leaks.
But after leaving it a couple of days it started to deflate,so I tested and found that the same patch was leaking again. But also the first patch that had been OK for a couple of months is also starting to leak.

I am at my wits end. Has anyone seen this before and/or know of a solution.

Help please
Mike

[Pete7]

Mike, is the glue the two pack stuff, small tin and a tiny glass bottle you pour into the tin to start the setting process off. Sounds like you are using a tube of ordinary glue. Assuming the tubes are in reasonable condition there is no way you can just pull the patches off with the two pack stuff. Clean it all up with Acetone and try another glue.

Pete

http://www.polymarine.com/products/p...art-250ml-tin-[1607].cfm

[doggypaddle]

Funny that, i had exactly the same ashesion issues with polymarine glue.
I asked paul tilley and he sent me some alpha adhesives hypalon glue.
sticks like......to a blanket!!

[m chappelow]

before you do anything else ,get a small wire brush or some grit paper and carefully buff up the material where the patch is going to go ,i use a wire brush on a cordless drill ,you could draw a circle around the patch where its going to go with a biro pen then use marsking tape ,,then apply thin layer of adhesive on both patch and boat and allow to fully go dry to touch ,tackys no good it has to be dry ,,15/20mins ,,,then another thin layer and allow to dry touch say another 15 mins ,when you put the patch on get something round like a hammer head and rub all over the patch starting at one end and rub all the air out firmly ,that should do it ,and i would wait 24 hours before use ,its also best to deflate the tube with the hole ,and i stopped using acetone years ago seemed to make matters worse ,mart

[mike13401]

Pete this is the glue I have used
http://www.polymarine.com/products/p...%5B1606%5D.cfm

Mart other than the not using acetone I have done it exactly as you describe.

It seems strange to me that one of the repairs failed after a couple of months?

I have just squeezed some glue from the tube and it has some white blobs in it,is this normal.
I bought it august last year and it has been stored in a cool dry place.

Mike

[Trickdog]

Mike

That one part adhesive is for for emergency / temporary repairs only.
It says so on the web page that you posted the link to and on the product packaging!

I'm sure that's where your problem is.

Get the two part stuff for fixing a permanent patch.

[jyasaki]

I think I tried that Polymarine stuff in a tube once.

As I recall, I couldn't even get the initial bond to take, much less effect a permanent join (can't say I was prepping well, though, either.)

I would definitely use a 2-part adhesive. (Clifton, Shore, Bostik, etc.)

Sealing the edge with a thin urethane adhesive may also help keep the edge from coming up, too.

jky

[mike13401]

Thanks for all your replies. I hadnt realised that it was for temporary repairs,and it certainly wasnt mentioned when bought it.
I fact I was in the chandlers last week querying the problem and they were still saying it was ok for all repairs.And thats the biggest shop in the area.

I will now get the correct glue and do the job properly.

ATB
Mike

[kelson]

There are a few other things that haven't been covered yet. First off, be sure to buy two part glue that is not old. The shelf life of two part glues is not more than one year. It is also very important to monitor the humidity and temp. The glue is hygroscopic. Moisture will kill the bond strength. The whitish lumps in you one part glue may be moisture too. Whitish spots or haze on a glue layer are indicative of moisture. Don't rely on the newspaper for a humidity reading, your local conditions may vary widely. I bought a really cheap hygrometer $12 US. Don't even consider gluing anywhere near the water unless you like regluing your repairs regularly. There can be absolutely no old glue on the surfaces to be joined. Glue does not bond to old glue. Buy Tolulene. Acetone is a weak substitute. MEK is better for PVC. Here is a link to a set of directions that will give you a strong bond. By the way, you should let a glued patch, seam, or layer cure for 72 hours before use. I've repaired separated floors, reinstalled transoms and patched leaks. There are no shortcuts.
http://www.allinflatables.com/support/hypalon.html

[m chappelow]

Originally Posted by kelson

There are a few other things that haven't been covered yet. First off, be sure to buy two part glue that is not old. The shelf life of two part glues is not more than one year. It is also very important to monitor the humidity and temp. The glue is hygroscopic. Moisture will kill the bond strength. ]

good point
i was given some 2 part stuff from a well known uk rib company [the very strong wind one ]when he was first starting up in the town that i lived and he said use it within a few months or bin it as its a short shelf life and he said dont use it in damp conditions ,

[chewy]

Bostik glue has a use by date on the side of it.