Replace floor or not? - Page 2

Fishery Pokery · 05 April 2010, 13:15

Do you think it is possible to buy a new floor (or panels) from avon?
Has anyone else ever done this?
I have noticed there is a brandnew one on ebay for a sport 3.15.
Cheers,
Geoff

9D280 · 05 April 2010, 13:42

Just a quick throught regarding Marine vs Exterior ply.

Assuming they are both designed to hack a bit of weather, do you pay double for an extra couple of years service?

All I'm saying is that you might be cheaper (but more hassle as you;ll need to replace a bit more often) to use "bog standard" ply, varnsh / epoxy / whatever it up, and OK, it may not last quite as long, but if it's half the price, as long as it lasts > half the life of the expensive stuff, you're quids in. (not including the "cost" of the hassle to replace it).

thornbackflound · 05 April 2010, 13:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geoff_Jubb

Do you think it is possible to buy a new floor (or panels) from avon?
Has anyone else ever done this?
I have noticed there is a brandnew one on ebay for a sport 3.15.
Cheers,
Geoff

I have seen that floor on E-bay as well Geoff,cheap untill you look how much they wan t for postage,lol,all made tho ,but will it fit ?lot to fork out if its way to small

Fishery Pokery · 05 April 2010, 15:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by thornbackflounder

I have seen that floor on E-bay as well Geoff,cheap untill you look how much they wan t for postage,lol,all made tho ,but will it fit ?lot to fork out if its way to small

I wasn't going to buy that one mate as it is far too small, just an example that maybe Avon do the floors as a replacement possibly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

Just a quick throught regarding Marine vs Exterior ply.

Assuming they are both designed to hack a bit of weather, do you pay double for an extra couple of years service?

All I'm saying is that you might be cheaper (but more hassle as you;ll need to replace a bit more often) to use "bog standard" ply, varnsh / epoxy / whatever it up, and OK, it may not last quite as long, but if it's half the price, as long as it lasts > half the life of the expensive stuff, you're quids in. (not including the "cost" of the hassle to replace it).

I see what you mean, but I am useless woodwork, so to replace the floor will take a lot of time plus epoxy, paint etc.
I am hoping to keep this boat for a long time (as I have said with my other boats

). If I am to do the floor, I would rather it lasted a while.

To be honest, I am coming to see that sometimes my time is worth more than the botched jobs I turn out. I am a gas engineer and could earn more doing overtime or callouts than it costs to get the job done properly. The console I had made out of stainless steel recently is a real nice job, much better than I could turn out of wood, glass or steel itself.

This is why I am thinking of gettting someone to make me a new floor, or buy a genuine replacement.

Does anyone know the trade that would do something like this? Joiner, cabinet maker?
And has anyone bought a floor for thier sib before?

ashbypower · 05 April 2010, 17:23

Hi With the original's it is not rocket Sience, however if you are uncomfortable with it, why not look up a kitchen fitter, I guess in your business you may have a contact !!!

chris123 · 05 April 2010, 20:48

I suspect you will struggle to get a new set - I have seen the ebay seller you refer to, he does seem to get Avon floorboards in from time to time, but you would be lucky for him to get the right boards - you could always send him a message?

Any decent joinery company should be able to copy your current boards - I would get a few quotes though, as prices can vary dramatically.

Cheers

Chris

walruz · 05 April 2010, 22:44

I would say find an independent joiner as any company will rack up the charges.

Ian

Nos4r2 · 05 April 2010, 23:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

I would say find an independent joiner as any company will rack up the charges.

Ian

If you buy from Jewson they'll cut to the basic measurements for you for free. However, when I refloored a cabin cruiser they got it just wrong enough that it didn't fit properly and it made it a real pain in the neck to sort out. At your own risk-they wouldn't refund me so I doubt they will anyone else...

Sharkbyte · 06 April 2010, 00:07

With the original sections to act as templates, half an hour of your time should be ample to have replacement sections cut and ready to finish.

The job could be done and dusted in less time than it would take to have new boards delivered.

Fishery Pokery · 06 April 2010, 20:46

Hmmmm, maybe I will have a go.
Priced up marine ply today, I will need two sheets of 18mm at £40 (all in) each.
Also had a good look at my boards and think I know what has cause the problem.
All the boards are 18mm except the front board, which is about 12mm, maybe a little more. When I looked at the aluminium channel at the front, the ply has been made thicker, to 18mm. I think it has been replaced with thinner stuff in the past, and this is why the back end snapped (see pics). I am going to replace it with 18mm throughout.

Was wondering if the overlaps on either end look right, as I don't want to copy boards if they are wrong?

Also, what do I coat the boards with, epoxy resin? And maybe paint over the top of these with International Brightside Polyurethane that I have?

Thanks for everyones help and encouragement so far!
Geoff

Sharkbyte · 06 April 2010, 21:59

Good call, Geoff.

Personally, I would sand the faces of all of the boards with a fairly course paper, and sand the edges till they are as smooth as a baby's arse. The rough sand on the faces should give a far better key.

I'd use some thinned out epoxy for a first coat, and a slightly stiffer mix for the second. Probably best to stick a third on the edges if they look like they need it. Finish with a couple of coats of compatible paint.

Use a rad roller. Mop head for epoxy coats (quicker), and foam head for topcoats (no dropped fibres).

A few minutes giving the boards a light rub between coats, followed by a quick wipe over with ever so slightly damp rag, should pay dividends in years to come.... and give a very acceptable finish. Don't leave it too long between coats (ie. 3 days in the sunshine). Water is very good a getting between layers of paint if the bond is compromised by an overly long cure.

Sharkbyte · 06 April 2010, 22:03

Forgot to say.....think ahead now if you need any fixings / battens on your floor ie. fuel tank / battery etc.

Best if it's all done together.

Fishery Pokery · 06 April 2010, 22:17

Brilliant, thanks mate (especially the batens).
when doing the epoxy and paint, is it ok to paint one side then the other, or does this affect the water resistance?
Also didn't post the pictures earlier, was wondering if the overlaps on either end look right, as I don't want to copy boards if they are wrong?
Do you fasten the overlaps with stainless screws?

Fishery Pokery · 07 April 2010, 21:12

Heard back from my nearest Avon dealer today who said after getting my boats serial that Avon wouldn't supply a floor due to the age of my boat (I asume 1985, as it ends in an 85).
Even though I probably wouldn't have bought it due to price, I was a little dissapointed that Avon, who pride themselves on the durability of thier boats can't supply a floor.
In their defence, I had no idea it was that old, it seems in very good condition, all things cosidered.
Does make me think back to Sharkbytes post about PVC Vs Hypalon in the recent futura thraed though.
Cheers,
Geoff