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17 July 2017, 17:18
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Kent
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: 5hp 2 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
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Ropes
This might be a silly question, but I'll be picking up my new Honwave (second hand) on Wednesday and was wondering about mooring ropes. I can see by the pictures that it currently doesn't have any and as I am using this on rivers, they will be essential for launching and of course mooring for lunch!!
What do you all use, what length and where do I get them?
Thanks
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17 July 2017, 18:24
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lincolnshire
Boat name: Mousetrap
Make: Zodiac Cadet 310S
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 4 stroke 9.9
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 481
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Decent ropes are stronger, easier to tie and untie, and generally nicer to work with. You can get them from a chandlery/chandlers, sailing shop, or some other outdoor shops.
The two basic sorts are "twisted" and "braided". A twisted rope is made of thinner lines twisted together in a spiral. A braided rope is generally a bit more expensive, but nicer to handle and easier to tie or untie.
You will need:
1) A painter. That is the tope leading from the bow of the boat. If your boat has two D rings, one on each tube, rather than one D ring in the middle, you will need to make a Y shaped painter: 1 line to each of the D rings and 1 leading from the middle that you use to moor the boat. Make sure that the painter is not long enough to reach the propellor if the end falls overboard and the painter drags underneath the boat.
2) At least one spare length of line that you can use to tie to something on the side of the boat when you are mooring alongside something. Most of the time, you can keep this out of the way.
3) An anchor line, length of chain and anchor, unless you are certain that you are staying on slow shallow rivers within easy reach of the shore. You will probably want to anchor from time to time just to eat your picnic, laze in the sun, read, or swim, but the anchor is an important part of the safety equipment.
On the whole, the ropes won't need to be very strong, but thick ropes are easier to handle. Kite string would almost be strong enough on the river, but something about 8 mm or so thick is much nicer to use.
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17 July 2017, 18:30
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#3
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,929
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Agree re decent ropes. Mine are about 10yrs old and were expensive at the local river chandlers... but they are still soft... nice to handle.. and they flop... I like a rope that flops and stays put.
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17 July 2017, 19:13
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Kent
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: 5hp 2 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
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Thank you, that's really helpful.
So many things to get when you start this hobby!!
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17 July 2017, 19:22
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Kent
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: 5hp 2 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikefule
Decent ropes are stronger, easier to tie and untie, and generally nicer to work with. You can get them from a chandlery/chandlers, sailing shop, or some other outdoor shops.
The two basic sorts are "twisted" and "braided". A twisted rope is made of thinner lines twisted together in a spiral. A braided rope is generally a bit more expensive, but nicer to handle and easier to tie or untie.
You will need:
1) A painter. That is the tope leading from the bow of the boat. If your boat has two D rings, one on each tube, rather than one D ring in the middle, you will need to make a Y shaped painter: 1 line to each of the D rings and 1 leading from the middle that you use to moor the boat. Make sure that the painter is not long enough to reach the propellor if the end falls overboard and the painter drags underneath the boat.
2) At least one spare length of line that you can use to tie to something on the side of the boat when you are mooring alongside something. Most of the time, you can keep this out of the way.
3) An anchor line, length of chain and anchor, unless you are certain that you are staying on slow shallow rivers within easy reach of the shore. You will probably want to anchor from time to time just to eat your picnic, laze in the sun, read, or swim, but the anchor is an important part of the safety equipment.
On the whole, the ropes won't need to be very strong, but thick ropes are easier to handle. Kite string would almost be strong enough on the river, but something about 8 mm or so thick is much nicer to use.
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Would 5m be enough in your experience?
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17 July 2017, 19:32
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikefule
That is the tope leading from the bow of the boat.
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Hmmmm!
https://youtu.be/2I91DJZKRxs
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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17 July 2017, 19:51
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lincolnshire
Boat name: Mousetrap
Make: Zodiac Cadet 310S
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 4 stroke 9.9
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo
Would 5m be enough in your experience?
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My SIB is 3.1 metres.
I think my Y shaped painter uses approx 3 x 1.5 metres = 4.5 metres.
As a detachable general purpose line I have about 3-4 metres.
As an anchor line, 30-50 metres on the anchor, plus a spare wrapped coil of cheap polypropylene rope in case I need to anchor in deep water.
Simplification: the more anchor line you have out, the better the anchor will hold. Anywhere from 4 to 8 times the depth of water. I say "simplification" because if you anchor in a strong current, the long anchor line adds drag. If you only have wind to cope with, the more line the better, as long as you are sure you won't swing into something if the wind changes.
You can never have too much rope.
Learn the anchor bend, the round turn and two half hitches the clove hitch, the alpine butterfly loop, the sheetbend and the double sheetbend. Other knots are available, but I use these on every trip on the SIB. There are plenty of how to videos on YouTube, including my own channel "Mikefule".
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17 July 2017, 23:17
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
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18 July 2017, 08:46
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Abersoch
Boat name: vanishing point
Make: phantom, Ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200hp
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikefule
Decent ropes are stronger, easier to tie and untie, and generally nicer to work with. You can get them from a chandlery/chandlers, sailing shop, or some other outdoor shops.
The two basic sorts are "twisted" and "braided". A twisted rope is made of thinner lines twisted together in a spiral. A braided rope is generally a bit more expensive, but nicer to handle and easier to tie or untie.
You will need:
1) A painter. That is the tope leading from the bow of the boat. If your boat has two D rings, one on each tube, rather than one D ring in the middle, you will need to make a Y shaped painter: 1 line to each of the D rings and 1 leading from the middle that you use to moor the boat. Make sure that the painter is not long enough to reach the propellor if the end falls overboard and the painter drags underneath the boat.
2) At least one spare length of line that you can use to tie to something on the side of the boat when you are mooring alongside something. Most of the time, you can keep this out of the way.
3) An anchor line, length of chain and anchor, unless you are certain that you are staying on slow shallow rivers within easy reach of the shore. You will probably want to anchor from time to time just to eat your picnic, laze in the sun, read, or swim, but the anchor is an important part of the safety equipment.
On the whole, the ropes won't need to be very strong, but thick ropes are easier to handle. Kite string would almost be strong enough on the river, but something about 8 mm or so thick is much nicer to use.
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Great advice Mike and I'm loving your YouTube videos. I'm off to make a Painter now & learn the Harmonica!
Cheers
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18 July 2017, 13:10
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lincolnshire
Boat name: Mousetrap
Make: Zodiac Cadet 310S
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 4 stroke 9.9
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskylee
Great advice Mike and I'm loving your YouTube videos. I'm off to make a Painter now & learn the Harmonica!
Cheers
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Thank you. Concertina, too, when you've made a start on harmonica.
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