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04 March 2015, 20:13
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#1
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Chicago
Make: N/A
Length: no boat
Engine: N/A
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 75
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Securing Fuel Tank to Aluminum Floor
I have a Zodiac Cadet on order, and when I asked about installing tracks on the aft floorboard to provide an adjustable platform to strap down the battery and fuel tank, I was quoted $500 which is just too much in my eyes. Are there any better ways to batten them down without drilling? I was thinking maybe velcro underneath the fuel tank, or a light duty strap wrapped around underneath the floorboard.
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04 March 2015, 22:13
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#2
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Member
Country: USA
Town: New Jersey
Make: 733
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yanmar
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 234
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Velcro definitely wont be sufficient. I also wouldn't put anything between the hypalon and stringers of the floorboards(like a strap) it would damage the hypalon from friction.
If you are looking for an adjustable track system, check out A-track or airplane track the tracks are aluminum so you would either bolt them down or weld them onto the floorboard.
If you don't want to bolt or weld, check out weld-mount. Their plastic strap tie downs are beefy and can be put on with their own epoxy, or use 5200. They are permanent as well.
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04 March 2015, 22:33
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Cardiff
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,018
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Why not drill? does the fuel tank need to be adjustable?Are you going to move the battery about? drill and pop rivet some straps tot he floor panels. job done.
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05 March 2015, 00:10
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#4
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Chicago
Make: N/A
Length: no boat
Engine: N/A
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 75
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The aircraft cargo strap tracks look intersting, especially the angled track here: L Track Tie Down - Airline Track Cargo Tie Down Rails & L Track Straps
It's not that I will be moving things around out on the water, but having it so where the strap sits is adjustable would be useful.
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05 March 2015, 07:17
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#5
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Member
Country: Canada
Town: British Columbia
Make: Gemini
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp 2 str
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kestrel452
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Great link! Those tracks are extremely reasonably priced. I used some nylon webbing for a daisy chain on the tops of my wooden stringers. To pin the webbing down, I used stainless steel bolts, nuts & washers spaced about 4" apart. It works well, but it was a lot of work and all of that stainless hardware ended up being more expensive than this track system.
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05 March 2015, 07:38
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,499
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As above pop rivet a tie down bracket - use a spreader type bracket with multiple rivets otherwise they may pull through the thin aluminium skin.
Or if enough depth in the aluminium sandwich you can fit hidden eye bolts, info here:
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/sib-alu...tml#post621967
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05 March 2015, 10:54
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Boat name: Salty Cheeks
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: 20hp 2stroke Mariner
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 485
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Hi all
2 inch webbing strap of suitable length.Also webbing strap buckle,3 inch long 10mm wide Stainless steel,4 rivets not sure what sort aluminium or stainless
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05 March 2015, 19:14
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#8
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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If you use stainless rivets (which would be my choice - aluminum rivets won't hold up to the repeated stress, from experience), make sure you slather a good amount of anti-seize compound on before riveting. Will help in avoiding dissimilar metal corrosion.
jky
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06 March 2015, 12:13
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#9
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Spammer
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
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I agree..Stainless Steel Rivets. When using metal screws, rivets, bolts, etc.. through Aluminum that are not Stainless Steel, an automatic "galvanic" corrosion will begin almost immediately.
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06 March 2015, 13:52
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#10
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Connecticut
Make: Zodiac
Length: 6m +
Engine: Undecided
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 777
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What model cadet and year are you getting ? Some of them have fittings on the transom that the rear board fits under. That fitting has a slot through it that a strap can be fed through to hold down a tank or battery.
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06 March 2015, 20:58
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: The sea dog
Make: Swiftline
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yan 315
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 22
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Personally I'd go with the welding option, go find a small engineering shop that will take a few notes in cash for the job, ie don't go somewhere marine based, anyone with MIG or TIG welding facilities could do that
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08 March 2015, 09:37
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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If you go the welding route, make sure your floor isn't sandwiched around wood. My Achilles SG floor was made that way.
jky
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08 March 2015, 11:25
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgoing
What model cadet and year are you getting ? Some of them have fittings on the transom that the rear board fits under. That fitting has a slot through it that a strap can be fed through to hold down a tank or battery.
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My Old Zodi SIB had An Alloy floor that slotted together...just a matter of lifting and bolting/securing anything straight through and using rounded SS bolts facing down...as I did with plastic fuel tank,and load carry straps...although I had a pull start in those days!
Pop rivets won't cut it long term...and why go to the considerable bother and exspence of welding??
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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08 March 2015, 11:35
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,650
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There's no need to drill or rivet anything. When you're building the boat, wrap a ratchet strap under the floor section nearest the transom. Buy a rubber mat larger than the fuel tank and place underneath. I used to this with a Zodiac MK IIC GT and the 25 litre steel tank rarely moved.
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08 March 2015, 12:00
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
There's no need to drill or rivet anything. When you're building the boat, wrap a ratchet strap under the floor section nearest the transom. Buy a rubber mat larger than the fuel tank and place underneath. I used to this with a Zodiac MK IIC GT and the 25 litre steel tank rarely moved.
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By the sound of things the specific details depend on the Model of craft you're talking about...one thing for sure....if it's In a Boat...especially heavy items like Batteries and Fuel need to secured properly.
Even in moderate Seas...If not ...you'll very soon regret it
__________________
A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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08 March 2015, 14:19
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
By the sound of things the specific details depend on the Model of craft you're talking about...one thing for sure....if it's In a Boat...especially heavy items like Batteries and Fuel need to secured properly.
Even in moderate Seas...If not ...you'll very soon regret it
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Okay, two ratchet straps then!
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Is that with or without VAT?
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09 March 2015, 05:54
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#17
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Member
Country: Canada
Town: British Columbia
Make: Gemini
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp 2 str
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,151
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"Rarely moved" ? Not nearly as comforting as "never moved" LOL
Running nylon webbing daisy chains on each side just inboard of the stringers allows for versatile and very secure anchoring for a variety of items.
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22 March 2015, 15:38
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#18
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Delmarva
Boat name: Ss Minnow
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: Lehr Propane
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 59
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For the OP
I'm a little confused
Did the dealer tell you that your boat didn't come with bow tie down straps or are you just trying to relocate the tank to the rear of the boat. My Fr325 came with straps and the 340 rib I just looked at had straps
The reason the tank is mounted up front is to cut down on bow rise and help the boat plane better
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