Small hooks into wood floor. Bad idea?

Jlomb436 · 23 June 2017, 20:54

Heya folks,

I have a Bombard Typhoon 420 and it has no method to secure anything to the floor. I actually posted on this a few years ago about potentially placing some type of folding hook (d-rings) so it laid flat on the floor when not in use. However, I'm not experience with aluminum nor have a rivet machine. I'm assuming using small screws simply wouldn't work?

Instead, I was thinking of just screwing in some small hooks into the wood piece closest to the stern. Remotely flat and can hunker down the gas tank there. Are there any issues with this? My only concern is water will eventually get in there I'm guessing and may eat at the wood. Thoughts?

PS, I also have no method of attaching a strap to the transom for towing purposes. I was thinking of doing this as well.

jeffstevens763@g · 23 June 2017, 21:55

For the Ali floor you need Ali threaded inserts the tool is about 20$ I would think over the pond or you just use a bolt and nut to compress the insert I used stainless bolts coated in silicon grease to prevent corrosion.you can then use drop down eyes to tie down gear.
For the stern use eye bolts through the transom

Just be careful when drilling for the insert the floor has partitions which throw you out so you need a rotory file in a drill to complete the hole

Jlomb436 · 23 June 2017, 23:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

For the Ali floor you need Ali threaded inserts the tool is about 20$ I would think over the pond or you just use a bolt and nut to compress the insert I used stainless bolts coated in silicon grease to prevent corrosion.you can then use drop down eyes to tie down gear.
For the stern use eye bolts through the transom

Just be careful when drilling for the insert the floor has partitions which throw you out so you need a rotory file in a drill to complete the hole

Would you just recommend I attach some d hooks to the wood than? I have a feeling I'll ruin this aluminum somehow haha. Or drill PAST the floor into the air floor.

office888 · 23 June 2017, 23:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jlomb436

Would you just recommend I attach some d hooks to the wood than? I have a feeling I'll ruin this aluminum somehow haha. Or drill PAST the floor into the air floor.

You only need to drill in about 1/16", the aluminum isn't very thick.

TEKTON 6555 Rivet Gun with 40-Piece Rivets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPT74C..._WPztzbZ68AGC2

spartacus · 24 June 2017, 07:27

You can run ratchet straps under the floor section during boat build. Used this on a Zodiac to secure the fuel tank. No drilling and worked a treat.

paintman · 24 June 2017, 08:16

To avoid accidents with drills slip a piece of tube over the bit to limit its penetration. Metal tube is ideal but I find plastic works with a bit of care.

jeffstevens763@g · 24 June 2017, 17:59

There's 20 MM between skins very unlikely you will go through as said use a, drill limiter or the ratchet strap idea is first class for tanks etc there's some good glues about sika flex will give a descent hold if prepped well and for certain applications

simonafloat · 25 June 2017, 00:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

There's 20 MM between skins very unlikely you will go through as said use a, drill limiter or the ratchet strap idea is first class for tanks etc there's some good glues about sika flex will give a descent hold if prepped well and for certain applications

+1 on the sikaflex. If the surfaces are cleaned thoroughly it's an unbelievably strong bond

Sinistre1 · 26 June 2017, 04:59

I have also glued and screwed wooden blocks as needed (I did so int 2 L patterns to physically prevent a milk crate or fuel tank from sliding back... the wood blocks have the added bonus of being able to accept the screws for D rings or hook eyes, or whatever you imagine.

jeffstevens763@g · 26 June 2017, 07:57

dont forget that the wood segments of the floor are designed to flex at the bow hence thats why they are wood not ali all the way so dont cross a joint with an item [fuel tank] for instance.

Jlomb436 · 26 June 2017, 17:58

Thanks Gents for all of the ideas! I would have totally done the ratchet strap idea as I have plenty of those but the boat is already together and on the trailer. May have to bite the bullet though and throw one under on the weekend.

I may look at the rivets again. Thanks for the ideas!

jeffstevens763@g · 27 June 2017, 14:19

these are the threaded inserts for info

Jlomb436 · 01 July 2017, 20:19

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to give the rivet idea a shot and just rivet some d hooks to the aluminum. Such as these.

Husky Stainless Steel Light Duty Anchor Point (4-Pack)-54520 - The Home Depot

Going to take the floorboards out to absolutetly make sure I don't going through the bottom layer.

office888 · 02 July 2017, 04:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jlomb436

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to give the rivet idea a shot and just rivet some d hooks to the aluminum. Such as these.

Husky Stainless Steel Light Duty Anchor Point (4-Pack)-54520 - The Home Depot

Going to take the floorboards out to absolutetly make sure I don't going through the bottom layer.

Probably not a bad thing, it'll give you a chance to clean up under the floor!

Jlomb436 · 05 July 2017, 00:00

Thank you!

My gosh, I'm now in love with rivets. That was WAY to easy. Drilled and installed 4 beautiful D rings to my furthest aluminum piece.

I did goof and for some reason I drilled 2 holes where I was thinking I was going to mount the ring itself north to south and realized how silly that was. Anyway, they are on there secure.

If anyone is considering this, highly highly recommend. It took me 2 hours to take off the trailer, deflate, take panels out, and to put it back together, back on trailer etc. Rivets, 10 minutes.

Thanks again!

office888 · 05 July 2017, 19:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jlomb436

Thank you!

My gosh, I'm now in love with rivets. That was WAY to easy. Drilled and installed 4 beautiful D rings to my furthest aluminum piece.

I did goof and for some reason I drilled 2 holes where I was thinking I was going to mount the ring itself north to south and realized how silly that was. Anyway, they are on there secure.

If anyone is considering this, highly highly recommend. It took me 2 hours to take off the trailer, deflate, take panels out, and to put it back together, back on trailer etc. Rivets, 10 minutes.

Thanks again!

Looks great! Let's see some pictures of it all rigged up and ready to rock?

Jlomb436 · 06 July 2017, 05:13

I'll throw a pic up in the next week or two when I take it out loaded up. Should be fun!

Got a few modifications to make my trips a little more comfortable. Bimini, padded seat for bench, d rings etc. The only thing I'm missing is a grab handle on the right tube. Holding on to the rope for hours at a time just doesn't work. I planned on putting one of these on and I think should be set.

https://www.inflatableboats.net/zodi...handle-z60010/

jeffstevens763@g · 06 July 2017, 07:59

i use a dog lead clipped on threading it over the wrist i find it dosnt make my hand ache so much.