Stoopid question tiime form a newbie

[Starfish]

Hi everybody. Just joined the forum and am in the process of coming over from the SOT kayak scene.

I've got my first (new to me) SIB languishing in my sitting room undergoing a leak test. Everything seems good, but, like probably most newbies, I have a few, proabbly stoopid, questions.

Stoopid Q1. I had assumed that if one of the three main tubes went down, the other two tubes would stay inflated. When I deflated the boat by about 70% in order to fit the 4 section ply floor for the first time, I was surprised to find that all three tubes went down from just the one valve on the bow tube. Is this normal?

Stoopid Q2. Two of the 4 sections of the ply floor in my SIB have two bits of wood attached to them (obviously original design, not added by previous owner.) I noticed that the hull fabric has some abrasions which corespond to these extra pieces perfectly so I have assumed that a previous owner has normally fitted the floor so that these extra bits were on the underside of the floor. I'm guessing the abrasions aint supposed to happen so I have assembled the floor with them on the top side where they can do no further damage. The fact that there are also two plastic clips with a fabric strap running through them (I assume to tied down the fuel tank) also positioned on the same side as the extra bits Then this makes me think that I have the floor the right way up. Can anyone tell me why these extra bits are there?

Stoopid Q3. I fancy trying to make a sort of false hull from fibre glass to replace the inflatable sausage-like keel tube. Would there be any advantage to having a more "solid" floor which would give the hull fabric far more support than this silly looking sausage?

Finally, stoopid Q4. The two stringers which form part of my floor are missing a couple of the little black plastic inserts which probably protect the tubes from damage. Does anyone know if these are available to buy?

Oh, I should mention, I intend to use Serenity almost exclusively for fishing in small coastal bays and sea lochs on the west coast of Scotland.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed any light upon any or even all of the above.

[jyasaki]

Q1: Some deflation of the other tubes is normal. You have a soft wall (baffle) between the tubes that isolates them. As one deflates, the baffle moves into the deflated chamber, lowering pressure in the still filled one.

You may have blown baffles, though: inflate one chamber, and see if the entire boat inflates. Repeat for each chamber.

Q2: Sounds like you have it right given the footman loops, but pics would help.

Q3: You *may* have advantages from the solid keel bit (I heard that someone was making something similar for Achilles boats, but never found them); watch out for more abrasion from the fabric rubbing on it, though. It's not going to be as portable anymore, though. This is your first boat, are you sure the performance is lacking due to the design?

Q4: Impossible to say without a brand. Even with the brand, if it's an Asian boat, you may have problems sourcing parts. Dealer would be a good starting point, though, assuming it was purchased through one. Actually, it would be a good starting point in either case.

jky

[Starfish]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Q1: Some deflation of the other tubes is normal. You have a soft wall (baffle) between the tubes that isolates them. As one deflates, the baffle moves into the deflated chamber, lowering pressure in the still filled one.

You may have blown baffles, though: inflate one chamber, and see if the entire boat inflates. Repeat for each chamber.

Q2: Sounds like you have it right given the footman loops, but pics would help.

Q3: You *may* have advantages from the solid keel bit (I heard that someone was making something similar for Achilles boats, but never found them); watch out for more abrasion from the fabric rubbing on it, though. It's not going to be as portable anymore, though. This is your first boat, are you sure the performance is lacking due to the design?

Q4: Impossible to say without a brand. Even with the brand, if it's an Asian boat, you may have problems sourcing parts. Dealer would be a good starting point, though, assuming it was purchased through one. Actually, it would be a good starting point in either case.

jky

Hi JKY,

Thanks for your replies.

Q1. It appears I have one blown baffle as I can deflate two tubes from one valve but I still have one good baffle as one tube is definitely isolated fromt he other two. I can live with that.

Q2. Having fitted the floor and inflated the keel tube (sorry if wrong terminology) I suspect the extra bits of wood are designed to give added protection to the hull fabric from the ends of the stringers. The footman loops appear to be pure and simply for tying the four sections together for transportation (and if I am proven to be correct, they will be getting moved to the top side of the front section so they can double up as tank fixings too.) I now intend to stick small pieces of very tough protection to the inner side of the hull fabric to protect it from further abrasions (as it's only a minor fitment I'll use Sikaflex to bond it) and then I will fit the floor with the wood on the down side. Also, as I am that kind of person, I will reinforce the hull fabric for the entire length of the stringers to make sure there is no chance of further damage or abrasion from the stringers.

Q3. Now that I've seen how effective the "silly looking sausage" actually is, I will not be going ahead with my intention of making a more solid floor. Though I had been thinking along the lines of my home made bits being sectional also so that each floor board would have it's own attached bit of keel with a good firm spacer in between, but it was only an idea, now forgotten however.

Q4. I should have thought to mention that Serenity is a Quicksilver QS300 (I think it's mentioned in the profile bit below my name) but I have no idea if they are of Asian origin or not. I can in fact make a small rubber plug that will fit in the end, it's just I would have liked/preferred the original ones. Having said that, I have also recently discovered that the nearest chandlers to where I live is a Quicksilver dealer, so I think I'll be having a few good chats with them.

I suspect my keel tube has a puncture or leaky valve, it has deflated from fully inflated to about (at a guess) 30% of it's pressure. Time to start searching with warm soapy water for some signs of a leak. Darn it, I saw somewhere the name of the material used to make Quicksilver boats, but I have forgotten the name and where I found it. I'll need to go hunt for it again, it was something like Dacron, it definitely started with a D that way I can get the correct repair kit for the boat, again probably my local chandlers.

Thanks again for all your help, time and the effort you put into replying, it really is appreciated. I hope to get Serenity on the water this coming week-end for our maiden voyage, nothing spectacular, just a wee splash about.

Ron.

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by Starfish

Q3. Now that I've seen how effective the "silly looking sausage" actually is, I will not be going ahead with my intention of making a more solid floor. Though I had been thinking along the lines of my home made bits being sectional also so that each floor board would have it's own attached bit of keel with a good firm spacer in between, but it was only an idea, now forgotten however.

One other problem with a solid keel is that you *may* accelerate wear on the underside of the material that forms the bottom, especially if you do a lot of shallow water driving.



Q4. I can in fact make a small rubber plug that will fit in the end, it's just I would have liked/preferred the original ones. Having said that, I have also recently discovered that the nearest chandlers to where I live is a Quicksilver dealer, so I think I'll be having a few good chats with them.[/quote]

Quicksilver is well represented (certainly more than the rebadged Asian boats), so you may well be able to get the plugs you require. OTOH, it may be a hassle (if not nearly impossible), so making your own is an idea that should not be discarded yet.

Thanks again for all your help, time and the effort you put into replying, it really is appreciated. I hope to get Serenity on the water this coming week-end for our maiden voyage, nothing spectacular, just a wee splash about.

No problem. Best of luck with the boat.

jky

[Starfish]

Originally Posted by Starfish

I suspect my keel tube has a puncture or leaky valve, it has deflated from fully inflated to about (at a guess) 30% of it's pressure. Time to start searching with warm soapy water for some signs of a leak.

Investigation completed.

There was a smidgin of air leaking out of the valve which was clearly visible with soapy water. Prudent manipulation with a bent cotton bud made the application of a little methylated spirit followed by warm soapy water seems to have cleaned the rubber sealing ring and the valve seat - no more air escaping from the valve now!

Note to self, next time empty the water out of the valve before deflating tube, or else fit windscreen wipers to spectacles!