Transom trouble

[v2mille]

Sorry if the subject has already been covered but couldn't find the answer I need, I have seen the post about a full transom removal and regluing in place but I am wondering can I just perform a repair I have a year 2000 yam 330s which is ok condition apart from the transom has come unglued only on one tube and only the first 3 inches is there any way to repair it or has the whole thing have to be removed , also if it can be repaired in place what glue could I use as you cant pull the thick pvc type material that holds the transom apart very much to do cleaning/ gluing once again sorry if the subject has been covered.

[Landlockedpirate]

Hi, welcome to the forum.

Once the glue degrades and starts to fail in 1 place, the rest will follow quickly. The only way to repair it properly is to remove the transom and start again. Just repairing the current issue will be a waste of time and ultimately could result in you losing your engine.

The only glue to use is PVC 2 pack available from Ribstore, Ribshop or IBS.

I know this isnt what you wanted to hear,good luck with the repairs.

[Locozodiac]

How old is that sib ? Which HP engine is it ? Is 3 inches in upper tube right ? Peel the transom holder which has come unglued, if peels easy transom holders are shot. Will need to do both sides professionaly if knowing how.

If peels holds well as not to continue, just reglue the unglued part with 2 part pvc glue, that's a momentarily repair to get out of trouble. You decide if going for full repair or not. Post some pics to check troubled area. Much better than 1K written words..

Something like tis...

Happy Boating

[v2mille]

Thanks for the help guys thought it might be a case of removing and replacing it better not to chance it, been quoted £150 ish for the job is this fair, unfortunately I don't have the time or space at the moment to do the job myself.

[Locozodiac]

If done by a prop shop better go for it. This is a costly repair, costly materials are involved besides time, patience and skilled hand labor.

Will have a operational sib for years to come. Let tech check other parts that are probably in the way to unglue such as, rub strake, oars holder, locks, handles for a one time job.

Happy Boating

[Doug_G]

I have got transom trouble.

I have a Avon Rover 2.8 Rib.
The 2 part glue is not readily available here.

I'm proposing to use


My concern - after I clean and prep and apply glue - is being able to apply enough pressure to get the surfaces to stick well.

Any suggestions, hints etc?

[Landlockedpirate]

Hi, welcome to Ribnet, pretty sure you will get the same answer over here that you have already got.

The glue you are proposing to use is sold over here as Araldite Rapide, its for solid, not flexible applications.

With the 1000's of tenders round the Islands, surely someone sells the 2 part glue ?

[Doug_G]

Originally Posted by Landlockedpirate

Hi, welcome to Ribnet, pretty sure you will get the same answer over here that you have already got.

The glue you are proposing to use is sold over here as Araldite Rapide, its for solid, not flexible applications.

With the 1000's of tenders round the Islands, surely someone sells the 2 part glue ?

They sell the 2 part glue in St.Maarten, 60 miles away (cannot ship by air) plus 60% import duty. It seems to have a very short shelf life out here, so the Boat yard here doesn't stock/recommend it.

Not sure it is Araldite Rapide, the FlexSet blurb (my red colouring):

Marine-Tex FlexSet is a non-sagging, non-shrinking, permanently flexible epoxy adhesive.
Sandable and paintable, FlexSet resists vibration and bending failures by curing to a tough, flexible consistency that creates an air and watertight seal between mating surfaces.

Bonds to Polyethylene Starboard & Marine Lumber, PVC, Hypalon®, ceramic, rubber, polyurethane, glass, acrylic, steel, fiberglass, polycarbonate, wood, ABS, aluminum, Lexan® and dissimilar materials.

Apply above or below the waterline, in wet or dry areas.

Bonds dissimilar materials like PVC to copper. FlexSet outperforms PVC Cement! Because of the vibration and shock resistance, FlexSet is highly recommended for PVC pipe repairs. As bonded joints shrink and expand, the FlexSet moves with them. Therefore, it won't crack or break from the surface.

[captnjack]

One part glues suck, however that flex-set stuff looks to be 2 part so it might be ok. On the plus side, I have been generally happy with Marine-Tex products, although I have never seen that particular glue before.

On the minus side I'd be leery of marketing claims unless someone can vouch for its effectiveness. Although you might have to be a guinea pig unless there's an alternative.

How's that for uncertain?

[Doug_G]

Even if I can get the 2 park pack, my concern - after I clean and prep and apply glue - is how to be able to apply enough pressure evenly to get the surfaces to stick well to the transom.

[Max...]

That needs more than (the proper) glue to fix it...

[Doug_G]

Originally Posted by Max...

That needs more than (the proper) glue to fix it...

Suggestion?

Naturally, I will first be removing all of the old repair attempts (5200, goo etc).

Other pics of it :






.

.

.


Yes, there is a leak as well. However it is at the bow.

[Landlockedpirate]

Originally Posted by Doug_G

They sell the 2 part glue in St.Maarten, 60 miles away (cannot ship by air) plus 60% import duty. It seems to have a very short shelf life out here, so the Boat yard here doesn't stock/recommend it.

Not sure it is Araldite Rapide, the FlexSet blurb (my red colouring):

It looks a lot like the blub for Araldite

Araldite Rapid Syringe 24ml


Araldite® Rapid 24ml syringe is a strong, long lasting solvent-free adhesive which gives both prompt positioning of parts, up to 4 minutes, with permanent full bond strength in 3 hours. It is water resistant and can be painted or sanded.
Bonds metal, wood, masonry, ceramics, glass, dry concrete, chipboard, leather, cardboard, fabric, rubber and most plastics (except polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon®).
The 2-component epoxy with fast setting. Parts repositionable for 4 minutes. High temperature resistance (-30° C to 65° C). Oil, chemical and impact resistant.


The proper stuff is contact adhesive which makes putting it all together a lot easier. But if you cant get it, you might as well use the other stuff, what have you got to lose ?

[Doug_G]

Originally Posted by Landlockedpirate

. . .The proper stuff is contact adhesive which makes putting it all together a lot easier. But if you cant get it, you might as well use the other stuff, what have you got to lose ?

I was given the RIB and the engine free of cost, so it is probably worth the gamble.


Nevertheless, even after I clean and prep and apply glue the question arises: how to be able to apply enough pressure evenly to get the surfaces to stick well to the transom.

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by Doug_G

how to be able to apply enough pressure evenly to get the surfaces to stick well to the transom.

One method:
Deflate the tube pretty much completely, and cut a plywood form (might need a few thicknesses glued or nailed together to match the transom thickness) that matches the curve of the transom. Once glued up, place the form against the outside of the tube, and clamp it up however you can.

If you were using the normal 2-part hypalon glue (or PVC glue depending on your fabric) you could stick it together and use some sort of wheeled thing to roll pressure onto the joint (again from the outboard side of the tube.) In this case, you don't need long term pressure, you just need to drive the 2 layers of adhesive together.

Good luck;

jky

[Doug_G]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

One method:
Deflate the tube pretty much completely, and cut a plywood form (might need a few thicknesses glued or nailed together to match the transom thickness) that matches the curve of the transom. Once glued up, place the form against the outside of the tube, and clamp it up however you can.

If you were using the normal 2-part hypalon glue (or PVC glue depending on your fabric) you could stick it together and use some sort of wheeled thing to roll pressure onto the joint (again from the outboard side of the tube.) In this case, you don't need long term pressure, you just need to drive the 2 layers of adhesive together.

Good luck;

jky

Thanks, I will most definitely need it.

[Locozodiac]

Check with AB inflatables distributer, should stock some 2 part pvc glue. Once unglued parts are well cleaned, turn sib to rest at other side, aply 2 part glue mix to both sides being glued, press deflated tube firmly against transom with metal roller tool if available.

Get a big bag of sand and put it against side being glued. The bag should take the shape of the round transom, weight will maintain both glued parts in contact. Let dry.

Happy Boating

[PeterM]

Doug thats an easy fix with the right glue . Ive done it on a 3m Avon . I'll find some pics over the weekend and post them - may even be on here already somwhere ...

here - http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/new-mini...tml#post445674

but I've some better pics on laptop

[Doug_G]

Do I watch the World Cup matches today or do I clean off the old 'goo' etc in preparation?