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Old 11 July 2013, 02:07   #21
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For simplicity of keeping the rope and pulleys organized, I'd suggest a fiddle block set.

http://www.pelicanrope.com/safety.pdf (see page 11)
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Old 11 July 2013, 07:47   #22
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Thanks PT. Andy, great post and very helpful - thanks. I like the Skywinch idea (share your thoughts that it's a windlass in a bracket at the end of the day) but I've got loads of suitable 12mm braided rope and it does look a neat solution in the way that it's just a case of using one handy rope from boat to car (no PITA steel cables) that can can be slotted in at any point and doesn't wind up on a drum.

Not sure what the mechanical advantage or effective effort required is though, do you know how this is calculated for a winch?
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Old 11 July 2013, 08:35   #23
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Sky winch looks like a simple solution.

Another option would be a self tailing winch from a yacht. Mount on a base plate that can be secured to the LR. Expensive new but often cheap at boat jumbles.
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Old 11 July 2013, 10:12   #24
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Old 11 July 2013, 11:15   #25
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You dont need a huge capacity winch with the weight you are trying to move.

I like the idea of the Skywinch, but rope of the type suggested by the manufacturer has a huge amount of stretch and you will be winding for a long way before the boat even starts to move.

I would go for the KIS solution in manual mode. I use one of these occasionally, it works well and does what it says on the tin.

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Old 11 July 2013, 15:08   #26
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Not sure what the mechanical advantage or effective effort required is though, do you know how this is calculated for a winch?
The length of the handle (from the axis of the drum to the grip) divided by the radius of the drum where the rope passes round it.
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Old 11 July 2013, 18:00   #27
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The length of the handle (from the axis of the drum to the grip) divided by the radius of the drum where the rope passes round it.
(If there isn't any mechanical reduction gearing involved)
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Old 11 July 2013, 19:02   #28
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Thanks Hugh, much appreciated - what is typical? I don't have any to measure...
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Old 11 July 2013, 19:53   #29
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How about one of these?

http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/produ...winch-pcw3000/

Admittedly not a budget option but would do the job well.
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Old 11 July 2013, 21:16   #30
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I just use a standard winch that i bolted to an old large ring spanner that simply hooks over the tow hitch on the car .
Wire is stainless steel plastic coated similar to yacht rigging wire but this stuffs from an old 300 ft radio mast .
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Old 11 July 2013, 21:20   #31
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Blimey Mart, John's was at one end of the scale but yours is kinda the opposite end...!
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Old 12 July 2013, 07:26   #32
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Thanks Hugh, much appreciated - what is typical? I don't have any to measure...
5:1 or so (at a guess)?
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Old 12 July 2013, 09:12   #33
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How about one of these?

Portable Winch PCW3000 | F R Jones and Son

Admittedly not a budget option but would do the job well.
That looks very interesting! The gas operation and ability to use an unlimited length of rope continuously would extremely useful in the back country.
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Old 12 July 2013, 13:25   #34
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http://www.portablewinch.com/ the Canadian manufacturer of similar if not the same,

I looked at importing them a few years back.

S.
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Old 12 July 2013, 14:14   #35
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That looks very interesting! The gas operation and ability to use an unlimited length of rope continuously would extremely useful in the back country.
I've heard good reports about them and I see one in my horoscope. Just need to find an excuse
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Old 12 July 2013, 14:21   #36
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I I see one in my horoscope. Just need to find an excuse
Moose hunting?
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Old 14 July 2013, 09:12   #37
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Also, even with what seem like light loads, never use a tow ball as an anchor point for winches and tow straps. This has caused many deaths.
Can you elaborate.Why isit so dangerous?
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Old 14 July 2013, 10:49   #38
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Can you elaborate.Why isit so dangerous?
I think its when the attachment comes off the ball. If you are reliant on a hoop over the ball thats not as secure as the ball fitting on a trailer, AND on a trailer thats known to fail hence has a breakaway cable or secondary chain on unbreaked trailers.

Risk if you are behind the trailer cascading backdown the slipway!

Risk if the winch cable snaps up and hits your face head body. Has the ability to decapitate if you get it 'just right'

Also a risk if a cable snaps but I don't see that matters what the fixing point is.
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Old 14 July 2013, 21:00   #39
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Trailers balls become flying canon balls when broken off, that is the main reason. As others have suggested a tow strap being snapped back can also inflict major injury if it comes off the ball which can happen fairly easily. A Hook is far superior. A continuous load situation is one thing where it is loaded with 500lbs or so. When recovering a vehicle a full throttle launch can produce 20,000 lbs to snatch the stuck vehicle loose, and that is when stuff breaks.

We got away from using steel winch cables on our Jeeps after having one go thru a windshield when it broke. Fortunately it hit the passenger side and the driver was safe. Yes we had a tow strap draped over the cable at the halfway point, and it broke just behind it. Winch rope is far safer as it just drops to the ground.
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Old 14 July 2013, 22:01   #40
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I think we're getting slightly carried away here. The OP was about dragging a small inflatable up a beach, not debogging a monster truck!
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