Winter care for my new outboard

[BuffsBoat]

Hi all,

I have a bunch of questions about winterizing my outboard. Forgive me that I’ve itemized them, I just want to make sure I got them all in order in my head!

I have a new Honda 15HP 4-stroke. I bought it 3 months ago, so it has about 30 hours on it. As per the instructions, there are several things that need to be greased, checked, and/or replaced. I have the book right in front of me, but am too lazy to reach down and get it. Anyway. With winter coming up, I figure I can do the winterizing AND the maintenance in one shot. Though, now I don’t have the money to get anything done! So here’s where I’m at. I brought the engine in the house, and it’s in a room that is under construction (i.e. – will most likely remain unfinished until the start of next season!). So it will be safe and undisturbed where its at.

I haven’t built a motor stand yet, so the motor (which feels heavy) is resting on the metal prop protector thing in a corner of the room. Could that prop thing crack with all the weight on it?

I chose to keep it upstairs instead of in the basement. I was afraid the flame of the water heater could ignite the residual fuel in the motor. Could that happen?

If I don’t get around to the maintenance in the next couple of months, would that harm the engine? As stated, it has about 30 hours on it, and I’ve not done any maintenance to it yet. With the holidays coming around, not sure if I will have the funds until January!

Any advice would be VERY much appreciated. I am lost with this stuff!

Thank you!

[jyasaki]

Where are you located? In much of the US, there isn't a whole lot to be done for winter except run it on muffs or in a tub every now and then (once or twice a month should be fine.)

If you do actually have a winter (I don't, in north-central California), and are planning on leaving the boat idle throughout, grease the tilt and steering tubes (should be zerk fittings, and you should do this now and then even during the boating season), remove the prop, fog the motor, drain the carbs (if carb-equipped), and manipulate the engine to get as much liquid cooling water out as possible (or run it in a tank of water with anti-freeze, after which residual water will be much less a concern.)

Biggest problems will be corrosion from residual salt, evaporation/varnishing of fuel, and freezing (and resulting expansion cracking) of any water left in the motor. If it's inside the last won't be an issue. I would still run a decent amount of stabilized fuel through it to prevent the varnishing problems, and fog or try to run it now and then to keep everything oil coated.

If the motor is supporting itself on the skeg, it's likely fine; OTOH a sawhorse is cheap and will support it off the skeg. One less thing to worry about.

I doubt you'd have a problem with the heater causing an explosion with fuel in the motor, though I suppose there is a miniscule chance it could happen. Any kind of ventilation downstairs would likely negate that risk, though.

There may be a few things I'm missing; I'm sure someone who actually winterises wil chime in here.

jky

[bingosucks]

build a sawhorse out of 4x2 i`ll try to upload a photo of mine... get rid of all fuel by allowing the engine to run when tank is empty(this will burn off any unspent fuel) do run in a tank of clean water, though your impellor should be good for another couple of seasons..remove spark plugs and clean up ends ( i shouldn`t think emery cloth is needed) now spray the inside of engine with fogging spray ..polish exterior with a car wax .... you could change the oil too ,both engine and gear box ,but i wouldn`t for a new engine but i`m guessing some would

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by bingosucks

build a sawhorse out of 4x2 i`ll try to upload a photo of mine... get rid of all fuel by allowing the engine to run when tank is empty(this will burn off any unspent fuel)

In most cases on small engines (those with dry-break couplings), disonnecting the fuel line won't work. The dry break cuts off the fuel line, so you pull a vacuum on the line before the fuel is burned.

Faster and easier to stabilize the fuel and run it for a decent length of time (a half hour or so) to get the stabilized fuel into the system.

do run in a tank of clean water, though your impellor should be good for another couple of seasons..

If you live in a hard-freeze climate, you want to make sure you get all the water out. Freezing water within the motor cracks stuff. Hence the anti-freeze recommendation.

you could change the oil too ,both engine and gear box ,but i wouldn`t for a new engine but i`m guessing some would

New engine, never serviced, I'd suggest changing both. The first few hours of running are the most productive for particles in oil. After that, it's more a matter of acids and salts that get into the oil (combustion by-products, salt water contamination.)

Just my opinions;

jky

[BuffsBoat]

Thanks guys. This is all good stuff, but sounds much too much for me to handle. So I'll be bringing it to a place nearby. It is an authorized Honda service center and are asking $200 to do the maintenance and winterze it. Does that sound reasonable?

[bingosucks]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

In most cases on small engines (those with dry-break couplings), disonnecting the fuel line won't work. The dry break cuts off the fuel line, so you pull a vacuum on the line before the fuel is burned.

Faster and easier to stabilize the fuel and run it for a decent length of time (a half hour or so) to get the stabilized fuel into the system.




If you live in a hard-freeze climate, you want to make sure you get all the water out. Freezing water within the motor cracks stuff. Hence the anti-freeze recommendation.




New engine, never serviced, I'd suggest changing both. The first few hours of running are the most productive for particles in oil. After that, it's more a matter of acids and salts that get into the oil (combustion by-products, salt water contamination.)

Just my opinions;

jky

can`t please em all

i had no problems with both my engines burning off unspent fuel as recommended by chandlery

good idea with antifreeze mind gonna pinch that one though if you stand your engine up most should drain out,if your storing in a basement/indoors i can`t see a hard freeze problem but hey belt n braces eh

and of course a new engine there will be lots of particles and contaminition ,i changed my oil as per manufacturers instructions on the service date,can`t remember how many hours in

but again just my opinion

[bingosucks]

Originally Posted by BuffsBoat

Thanks guys. This is all good stuff, but sounds much too much for me to handle. So I'll be bringing it to a place nearby. It is an authorized Honda service center and are asking $200 to do the maintenance and winterze it. Does that sound reasonable?

thats about £120 for about 30 mins work and £30 in parts ,i would say it`s a bit steep and to phone around....but hey i don`t know the prices over there

if your worried about doing it yourself ,try doing it with the marine mechanic on a saturday morning ,it is fairly easy even with our differences lol

[captnjack]

Originally Posted by BuffsBoat

Thanks guys. This is all good stuff, but sounds much too much for me to handle. So I'll be bringing it to a place nearby. It is an authorized Honda service center and are asking $200 to do the maintenance and winterze it. Does that sound reasonable?

Not a bad price, just realize that all of the above takes about 75minutes and $40 in oil filters and oils. And all the steps are in your owners manual.

[ssobol]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

In most cases on small engines (those with dry-break couplings), disonnecting the fuel line won't work. The dry break cuts off the fuel line, so you pull a vacuum on the line before the fuel is burned.

Just press the little plunger tip at the fuel inlet to open the line and let the engine draw the fuel from the bowl. At higher revs it might have enough suction from the pump to pull the valve open enough to let air in. The engine pump does have to draw fuel up from the tank in most installations. In my case it is about 2 feet of vertical lift.

[lightning]

What about all the outboard motors that sit on boats in the water all year round, they don't get "winterized" and they seem to survive OK.

[Poly]

Originally Posted by bingosucks

thats about £120 for about 30 mins work and £30 in parts ,i would say it`s a bit steep and to phone around....but hey i don`t know the prices over there

if your worried about doing it yourself ,try doing it with the marine mechanic on a saturday morning ,it is fairly easy even with our differences lol

Its about the going rate. http://www.clyde-outboard-services.c...board-services

[bingosucks]

Originally Posted by Poly

Its about the going rate. Servicing | Glasgow and Clyde Outboard Services Outboard Engine Servicing

i`m just your hands on type of fella and it looks like a good service

your right it is about the going rate ,i paid £75inc for a 5hp 4s at a local chandlery,i would expect it fogging for winter too...i`ve become fairly good mates with the mechanic now and actually enjoy the work as a hobby

i had a right nightmare with an old 9.8 merc and had to immerse myself in needles and floats etc ,thankfully my old man is an engineer who used to have a scooter

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by ssobol

Just press the little plunger tip at the fuel inlet to open the line and let the engine draw the fuel from the bowl.

I realize that. The statement was for others' benefit (though I will say it's a real PITA to hold the check ball in while the engine burns off the fuel in the bowls; takes quite a while.) Was thinking it may be better to leave the connector halves mated, and pull the fuel line before the connectors.

OTOH, I don't have that problem anymore, as the new engine is injected, and doesn't sit for winter (not that the last did, either.)

At higher revs it might have enough suction from the pump to pull the valve open enough to let air in.

Kind of doubt it. But worth experimenting, I suppose.

jky

[m chappelow]

I would second Jky,sfirst post ,,though suppose depends where you live what climate and how long and where it's going to be stored , Not a bad idea to grease the swivell and clamp screws and wind them in & out to their full travel before storage too and re grease the prop ,, I don't like the idea of trapped drops of saltwater festering away .

I don't actually winterise my engines as such as i keep them in the workshop/ celler under the house Josef Fritzle stye,,
After Wiping all over it with an oily rag i then just gently pull/ turn the engine over a few times each month to make sure the parts don't seize up .

after a good end of season run in a tank for 20 mins or so after letting the engine run out of fuel ,
Open the carb drain screw to drain off any fuel that's left ,
dry off ,, squirt some ! not too much wd 40 over the electrics & grease up the throttle linkages .

On me old 2 strokes I used to lay the engine on its front so the cylinders at facing up , remove the plugs. & put a few drops of oil down the cylinder bores turn the engine slowly over a few times to lubricate the piston rings especially if its a 100/1 mix engine ,,then replace the plugs and store upright .
If storing in a shed I would bung up the carb /air intake with some rag ,, keep out spiders or insects .

For draining the fuel line whilst running in a tank i I disconnect the tank end and push the end of a plastic golf tee or the like to jam the valve open as long as it doesent damage the (o) ring then hang it above the engine from the washing line whilst flushing in the tank ,,
with my 4 stroke engine I can get over 20 mins running on tick over with just what's in fuel line & bulb .
Couple of my other (proper )engines that live in the celler too along side the outboards ,, though I doubt the outboards will be still around after 100 years .

[BuffsBoat]

OK…..So I dropped my motor off at Monmouth Marine in Neptune NJ. When I called on the phone (prior to dropping it off), they estimated a price of around $200.00 for winterizing and 30 hour servicing. I just spoke to them on the phone, and they are saying $300.00 now. The technician wasn’t available for the call, but he is calling me back later to discuss.

This seems terribly high!

As I stated earlier, it’s a 15HP 4S brand new Honda.

I would imagine that the 30 hour servicing and winterizing have some overlapping tasks.

What say you all? Am I getting hosed?

[yam man]

Gear oil , engine oil , a couple of squirts of fogging oil and a dash of fuel stabiliser in there running up tank . I would say an hours labour max pushing it 1 hour an half. I would say they have pulled ya paints down sorry. That's an £80 job max regards graham

[CJL]

Originally Posted by BuffsBoat

As I stated earlier, it’s a 15HP 4S brand new Honda.

Well in that case wrap it up in a duvet, give it a hot water bottle, chuck the kids out of their rooms and bring it in the house!

Chris