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Old 08 September 2010, 05:10   #21
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Alright guys. I finally finished all the repairs. I just took a look at two motors. Which would you choose and why. One is a 1992 Yamaha 40hp short shaft, it is really extremely clean...only bummer is that its a pull start. Second is a Evinrude 40hp short shaft with electric start. The case on this motor looks like crap, but under the cowl, it looks brand new and has just been serviced. Both of these have no rust and have been tested. Which would you buy?

Definitely go with the Yamaha!!! Far more reliable, much better quality. Also, I would much prefer a pull start over an older electric start. While most electric starts can be emergency pull started, it may be awkward & difficult to set up an emergency pull rope while out in rough conditions.
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Old 08 September 2010, 05:36   #22
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Really? How tough is it to pull start a 40hp? My other concern is its ability to keep a battery charged, I plan to have a gps/fishfinder, lights and other electric gizmos. It seems that its charging system would not be able to keep the battery charged. I do agree that the yamaha is very high quality outboard. Do you guys think that there is a large weigh difference?
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Old 08 September 2010, 05:52   #23
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Really? How tough is it to pull start a 40hp? My other concern is its ability to keep a battery charged, I plan to have a gps/fishfinder, lights and other electric gizmos. It seems that its charging system would not be able to keep the battery charged. I do agree that the yamaha is very high quality outboard. Do you guys think that there is a large weigh difference?
A 40 hp that is in good condition takes very little effort to pull start. I can understand the desire to have a charging system if you are running other electrics, but a gps/fishfinder and some LED navigation lights shouldn't draw much current. A compact lightweight high end battery (such as an Odyssey PC 625) would go a very long time between charges.


http://www.odysseybattery.com/marinespecs.html
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Old 08 September 2010, 13:49   #24
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I'm not a big fan of Yamaha only because a friend had a lot of problems with one. However, I AM a big fan of pull start. No battery is good. Less weight; more floor space; and no potential of a dead battery letting you down. I've had it happen to me. Carry a small gel cell wheelchair battery for lights and electronics.
You don't say what year the Johnson is, but they did at one time have 3 different versions of charging systems. The best had a regulator on the back right corner. A cast aluminum box with cooling fins on it and lots of wires going in.
Availability of service and support is a consideration.
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Old 08 September 2010, 14:41   #25
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However, I AM a big fan of pull start. No battery is good. Less weight; more floor space; and no potential of a dead battery letting you down. I've had it happen to me. Carry a small gel cell wheelchair battery for lights and electronics.


The only thing I could add to that is that is also good to have a spare starter rope and to occasionally check the condition of the existing rope (even though they are extremely durable).
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Old 08 September 2010, 14:51   #26
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The only thing I could add to that is that is also good to have a spare starter rope and to occasionally check the condition of the existing rope (even though they are extremely durable).
Yes, goes without saying. Always carry a spare Everything. :^)
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Old 08 September 2010, 16:53   #27
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I was just thinking that with the console setup that a starter would make it more like a regular boat that anyone could just get in and turn the key to start it. Anyone have any input on the weight between these outboards. They are both from 92'. The evinrude is a 2 cyl and the yamaha is a 3 cyl, both 40hp short shaft.
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Old 08 September 2010, 18:05   #28
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You have a console? 3 cyl. might give you more torque. Also more weight and one more carburetor to tune, and potentially give you trouble.
I like to keep things simple.
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Old 08 September 2010, 21:23   #29
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According to the basic NADA outboard listing the 92 Evinrude 40hp manual start 2 cyl outboard weighs 185lbs (dry weight), the Yamaha 92 40hp manual start 3 cyl weighs 152 lbs. I think I get more low end power with my 3 cyl, but I'm probably kidding myself.
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Old 08 September 2010, 21:42   #30
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My OMC 25 shared the same block between a 20, 25, 30. The 40 shares a block with the 40, 50 and 60. I don't know anything about Yamahas.
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Old 12 September 2010, 00:41   #31
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I'd go with the Yamaha for sure.

I actually have a Yamaha 40 hp 2-stroke (ym 1985) on my Zodiac Futura Sport Mark II (ym 1990).
Took it our for a spin today and measured 40.5 knots top-speed... since I had a 16" prop on (and a crappy alu one at that) and the engine revved 6000 rpm's there still is a lot of improvements that can be made. :-)

The boat and engine is a good combo, but I will put a 60 hp Yamaha 2-stroke on my boat in the coming weeks. I already have the engine in my garage, now I just have to fit it and make a lot of trials on the correct mounting-height etc. Too bad that autumn is here and that the weather is getting worse... fast.

As you might have guessed I'm going to optimize the boat (mainly) for top-speed but still keep it somewhat useable.

My goal is to get at least 50 knots...
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Old 12 September 2010, 01:10   #32
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Shaft Length for Futura

Hi, I am new to the Rib-net, and I thought I would throw in my two cents worth on the shaft length and I would have to agree with kelson, I have a 1999 futura sport and have a 30 HP Yamaha out board motor, the speed tubes and main tube diameter and placement have changed based on the year of the boat. I have great fun and no problems with my set up short shaft is good on this year of Futura.
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Old 12 September 2010, 08:16   #33
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The only thing I could add to that is that is also good to have a spare starter rope and to occasionally check the condition of the existing rope (even though they are extremely durable).
Used to change mine every second season. Had one break on me while starting the engine. Luckily a local fish farm boat spotted us and towed us back in.
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Old 12 September 2010, 17:53   #34
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Dang, 40 knots? I'm only hitting 29-30 mph (GPS) or 26 knots in my Futura MK2 with a 40 hp three cyl Nissan. Engine runs well, maybe I should check the compression? I have a 10 1/4 inch four bladed prop. Can I really go to 16"? What pitch are you running Cortex? I have a console and a bit of gear in my boat, but it didn't go much faster when I ran it stripped down. Is 40 knots a reasonable expectation from a 40 hp outboard on this boat? I'm getting a decent hole shot and hit my WOT specification of 5500 rpm. I sure would appreciate a little prop advice here.
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Old 12 September 2010, 18:45   #35
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Me too. Futura Mk III, 40 hp 2 cyl. Johnson: 28 mph max with 15 pitch. Upped to 17 pitch and gained about 2 mph.
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Old 14 September 2010, 00:26   #36
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Ok, this might actually sound a bit harsh... but after reading through some of the threads in this forum it seems like very many people who writes with a lot of confidence about how-to-go-fast with your Futura probably doesn't know much about how to use the fantastic hull for speed in real life.

I made a small video with my GoPro HD from a couple of this saturdays 41 knot runs:



(I will make a "real" vid this spring when I've got the 60 hp on the boat with a real prop etc)

Anyway, basically you will have to sacrifice some things if you want to have serious fun (i.e go *fast*) with your Futura Sport. First of all; get rid of all unnecessary weight. Anchors, large batteries and all other crap just has to go. Secondly you have to get *all* the weight as far aft in the boat as possible (oh, this point will probably generate a lot of posts ;-)). Put the tank right against the transom. Move the jockey-console as far back as possible. I.e don't have *anything* in the front/mid part of the boat.

As you can see in the vid I haven't had time to move the console as far back on my boat as I want yet but will do it in the coming days. This is why I sit behind my console when I get the boat to go seriously fast. Your goal is to get the boat to only have the last centimeters of its speed-keels in the water + as little of the engine in the water as possible.
On the vid I only had a crappy alu-prop with a bad shape on the blades, so I couldn't lift and tilt out the engine as much as I liked. So the anti-cav-plate was only 1-2 centimeters above the water-surface at full speed. Ideally (i.e with my 60 hp) I will have a surface-cutting steel-prop and will then have the surface just above (or at) the level of the prop-shaft. That will really open up for high speeds.

You also need to tilt the engine out from the transom. Having it push the nose of the boat down is a huge no-no. It will really destroy the top-speed completely.
Yes, having it tilted out will give you cavitation when going up unto plane the "wrong" way. You need to get a good feel for how to do it effectively without cavitation (and without flipping your boat backwards :-))

Another thing is that you must have the correct pressure in your boat. If it is to low the boat will just bleed all the energy and "stick" to the water. Also you can get oscillations in the boat where it sticks and then "unsticks" which have a good chance of making it dangerous at high speeds.

When it comes to selecting a suitable prop you also have to consider your engines gear-ratio. My Yamaha 40 has a gear-ratio of 24/13 (1.85) which gave me around 40.8 knots at 6000 rpm with my crappy alu-prop (10 3/4 x 16). However, when I will switch to my 60 hp the gear-ratio it has (28:12, i.e 2.33) will make it necessary to have a prop with roughly 26" of pitch to get the boat over 50 knots. Which is basically what I will start with and then work my way up. ;-)
When it comes to shape of the blades; try to get one with a straight leading-edge as possible. The "standard" cabbage-shaped blades are only there to make the prop "all-round". I.e providing you with the possibility to get good power when reversing etc. Since our boats are very light it is of little or no concern to us.

This page is pretty useful for calculating which prop that might fit:
http://www.rbbi.com/folders/prop/propcalc.htm
You can put the prop-slip very low since our boats are super-light. I think I calculated something like 0.02 in slip...

You basically need to make you boat fly; the less wet surface you have the faster it will go.
However, YOU NEED TO UNDERSTAND THE RISKS HERE; you will need to be *VERY* aware of how to drive your boat. Flipping the boat in 40-50 knots will most likely put you in the hospital with smashed ribs etc.
When you add a little head-wind and also some waves you will fly for quite long distances and you will at all times need to balance the boat on a knife-edge.

So start experimenting with the advice above if you want to go fast. Make sure to keep a steady eye on the rpm, you don't want the engine to over-rev more then, say, max 500 rpm's if you want it to survive longer periods.
When you start learning how to balance your boat on the last few cm's of the speed-keels it will give you a huge rush... just be sure to take it slow in the beginning since it can become quite scary quite fast. ;-)

And yes, I am very aware of that people want to use their boats for other stuff as fishing, diving etc. That is of course fine too and not something that has anything to do with my personal goals with my futura sport. I bought it to go fast and give me a serious thrill.

Have fun!
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Old 14 September 2010, 15:18   #37
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Cortex,
Thanks for posting the details of your set up! I'm not running the stripped down set up that you are, but the information you post is very interesting. A big part of my overall weight is my heavy outboard with remote control and power tilt. That weight might not help me with obtaining top speed, but I can easily see the importance of having the outboard trimmed correctly at speed. I always trim the outboard out as I get up on a plane and it does make a big difference. I definitely had the experience where my zodiac went faster stripped, but the nose rise on start was quite dramatic. I can definitely see how my efforts to minimize bow rise have hurt my top end speed. I do appreciate the difference between setting up for max speed and other uses, but your success at optimizing for speed gives me some ideas and a different look at my Futura. Thanks again for the informative and thought provoking post.
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Old 15 September 2010, 05:39   #38
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Cortex, your boat freaking roosts. I just wanted to give a small update. I assembled the boat and installed the center console that I got on craigslist. Motor goes in on Saturday. The glue repairs came out really clean and are really strong. I AM GOING TO DIE IF I HAVE TO WAIT ANY LONGER!!! Will post pics this weekend!
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Old 15 September 2010, 06:31   #39
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Great post Cortex.
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Old 15 September 2010, 18:58   #40
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futura

I had a 2002 Mk2 sport and ran it with a highly tuned Yamaha 40 hp two stroke 20" shaft. She was a screamer. With the right tuning and weight distribution these boats can easily get up above 40 mph.
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