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20 June 2017, 01:59
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#1
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Australia
Boat name: F470
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50hp
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 24
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Zodiac Keel & Floor repairs
So now that I've had some time to work on the boat I've noticed a fair bit of patching that needs to be done. Mainly with the floor and the keel. I was just looking for some advice on the repairs mainly to do with the keel. I understand the process and materials (MEK, glue, rollers etc) needed to do the floor I'm just not sure how I'd do the keel. The hole I need to patch is in a awkward place and I'm worried I won't be able to get a patch on it because of its shape and location. I've uploaded some pics to help explain.
Also the transom has worn badly around the where the keel sits against it. Any ideas on what caused that and more importantly tips on repairing it?
Lastly I was thinking of cutting the keel (on the blue line) and filling it with pool noodles or pvc piping, expanding foam? Does anyone have any experience with this? I was going to make the incision where the blue line is and fill up till it holds its shape. I have no requirement to fold this boat up as it's on a trailer now. Just wondering if this would be a better alternative to fixing the air leak.
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20 June 2017, 08:48
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,646
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The inflatable keel is relatively straight-forward to repair. Had a Zodiac GT that failed at the same place. The keel is available as a separate part from Zodiac, but probably won't be cheap. The part is thermo-bonded not glued during manufacture. Clean it up and look to glue the area where it folds over. It doesn't have to be pretty, as it's under the floor anyway.
Don't even think about losing the inflatable keel - that's what gives the floor rigidity once the main tubes are inflated. You'll never create the same tension with foam and it'll slap underway in a moderate sea.
The transom area deterioration is probably due to sand abrasion. If the boat doesn't get dismantled and rebuilt, then sand collects under the floor and causes wear and tear. You can use PVC strips on the transom to reinforce.
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Is that with or without VAT?
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20 June 2017, 09:11
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#3
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Australia
Boat name: F470
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50hp
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 24
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I'm just not sure how I'll do the repair in that particular spot circled in red as it's not a smooth surface and the keel leaks so rapidly that it won't hold its shape whilst I'm waiting for the glue to cure.
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20 June 2017, 11:08
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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i would and have used this stuff then patch outside when its cured give it a good coating inside and it will extend the life span of the keel. dont get it on the [ inflation valve]
https://polymarineshop.com/sealflex-500ml.html
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20 June 2017, 13:25
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#5
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Australia
Boat name: F470
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50hp
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 24
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I'm having trouble finding a distributor of tube sealant in Australia. Would something like this work?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142094597871
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20 June 2017, 13:36
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo34
I'm having trouble finding a distributor of tube sealant in Australia.
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sealskin is another make try that
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20 June 2017, 13:41
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#7
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Member
Country: USA
Town: S. Carolina
Boat name: D560
Make: Avon
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2016 Merc 115hp CT
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,277
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Toluene is the preferred solvent for elastomers (CSM/CR). For elastomer gluing, a polychloroprene adhesive with an isocyanate chemical cross-linker should be used (equivalent to Desmodur RFE).
For smoothing, I prefer a rigid smoothing tool. A blunted rigid putty knife works fine.
Call a conveyor belt supplier, they'll have the adhesive.
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Richard
Gluing geek since 2007
Opinions and intepretations expressed are solely my own and do not express the views or opinions of my employer
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20 June 2017, 13:46
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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21 June 2017, 04:18
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#9
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Australia
Boat name: F470
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50hp
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 24
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Nah no luck with rib force inflatables. Still looking.
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22 June 2017, 09:38
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#10
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Australia
Boat name: F470
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50hp
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 24
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Just one more quick question on humidity. It's winter here in Aus so the days are short and the humidity usually sits around 60% for 6 hrs during the day before rising at night due to the cold Temps. How long do I need the humidity to stay low for and can I do anything like tape over the patch and glue to prevent air getting to it?
Cheers.
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22 June 2017, 12:22
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo34
Just one more quick question on humidity. It's winter here in Aus so the days are short and the humidity usually sits around 60% for 6 hrs during the day before rising at night due to the cold Temps. How long do I need the humidity to stay low for and can I do anything like tape over the patch and glue to prevent air getting to it?
Cheers.
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http://www.polymarine.com/ useful info on here
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22 June 2017, 16:01
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: S. Carolina
Boat name: D560
Make: Avon
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2016 Merc 115hp CT
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo34
Just one more quick question on humidity. It's winter here in Aus so the days are short and the humidity usually sits around 60% for 6 hrs during the day before rising at night due to the cold Temps. How long do I need the humidity to stay low for and can I do anything like tape over the patch and glue to prevent air getting to it?
Cheers.
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Reactivate with toluene before application. Not ideal though.
It is better just to have a climate controlled gluing area.
__________________
Richard
Gluing geek since 2007
Opinions and intepretations expressed are solely my own and do not express the views or opinions of my employer
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29 June 2017, 08:19
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#13
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Galway
Boat name: Lucky
Make: Zodiac
Length: 6m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 69
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Hi @Romeo34, I agree with the post about not ditching the inflatable floor tubes as they are vital to stability and ride. I have put up a series of posts where I repaired a 4.2M Zodiac SIB. I used HH66 Adhesive for many of the PVC to PVC joints where I had to make the joint without being able to guarantee low humidity. This stuff seemed to work very well for me and if you can get it locally it is worth a try. I would be patching over the section you circled in red. Clean, sand and prepare the surface with PVC primer before gluing and if you can, use a clamp with some timber pieces to press the patch onto the speed tube for 2 days curing. I had great results doing similar.
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