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Old 20 June 2017, 01:59   #1
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Zodiac Keel & Floor repairs

So now that I've had some time to work on the boat I've noticed a fair bit of patching that needs to be done. Mainly with the floor and the keel. I was just looking for some advice on the repairs mainly to do with the keel. I understand the process and materials (MEK, glue, rollers etc) needed to do the floor I'm just not sure how I'd do the keel. The hole I need to patch is in a awkward place and I'm worried I won't be able to get a patch on it because of its shape and location. I've uploaded some pics to help explain.

Also the transom has worn badly around the where the keel sits against it. Any ideas on what caused that and more importantly tips on repairing it?

Lastly I was thinking of cutting the keel (on the blue line) and filling it with pool noodles or pvc piping, expanding foam? Does anyone have any experience with this? I was going to make the incision where the blue line is and fill up till it holds its shape. I have no requirement to fold this boat up as it's on a trailer now. Just wondering if this would be a better alternative to fixing the air leak.
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Old 20 June 2017, 08:48   #2
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The inflatable keel is relatively straight-forward to repair. Had a Zodiac GT that failed at the same place. The keel is available as a separate part from Zodiac, but probably won't be cheap. The part is thermo-bonded not glued during manufacture. Clean it up and look to glue the area where it folds over. It doesn't have to be pretty, as it's under the floor anyway.

Don't even think about losing the inflatable keel - that's what gives the floor rigidity once the main tubes are inflated. You'll never create the same tension with foam and it'll slap underway in a moderate sea.

The transom area deterioration is probably due to sand abrasion. If the boat doesn't get dismantled and rebuilt, then sand collects under the floor and causes wear and tear. You can use PVC strips on the transom to reinforce.
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Old 20 June 2017, 09:11   #3
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I'm just not sure how I'll do the repair in that particular spot circled in red as it's not a smooth surface and the keel leaks so rapidly that it won't hold its shape whilst I'm waiting for the glue to cure.
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Old 20 June 2017, 11:08   #4
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i would and have used this stuff then patch outside when its cured give it a good coating inside and it will extend the life span of the keel. dont get it on the [ inflation valve]


https://polymarineshop.com/sealflex-500ml.html
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Old 20 June 2017, 13:25   #5
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I'm having trouble finding a distributor of tube sealant in Australia. Would something like this work?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142094597871
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Old 20 June 2017, 13:36   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo34 View Post
I'm having trouble finding a distributor of tube sealant in Australia.

sealskin is another make try that
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Old 20 June 2017, 13:41   #7
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Toluene is the preferred solvent for elastomers (CSM/CR). For elastomer gluing, a polychloroprene adhesive with an isocyanate chemical cross-linker should be used (equivalent to Desmodur RFE).

For smoothing, I prefer a rigid smoothing tool. A blunted rigid putty knife works fine.

Call a conveyor belt supplier, they'll have the adhesive.
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Old 20 June 2017, 13:46   #8
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anywhere near you? they sell for DIY enthusiasts


https://ribforceinflatables.com.au/i...ment-retubing/
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Old 21 June 2017, 04:18   #9
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Nah no luck with rib force inflatables. Still looking.
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Old 22 June 2017, 09:38   #10
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Just one more quick question on humidity. It's winter here in Aus so the days are short and the humidity usually sits around 60% for 6 hrs during the day before rising at night due to the cold Temps. How long do I need the humidity to stay low for and can I do anything like tape over the patch and glue to prevent air getting to it?

Cheers.
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Old 22 June 2017, 12:22   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo34 View Post
Just one more quick question on humidity. It's winter here in Aus so the days are short and the humidity usually sits around 60% for 6 hrs during the day before rising at night due to the cold Temps. How long do I need the humidity to stay low for and can I do anything like tape over the patch and glue to prevent air getting to it?

Cheers.
http://www.polymarine.com/ useful info on here
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Old 22 June 2017, 16:01   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo34 View Post
Just one more quick question on humidity. It's winter here in Aus so the days are short and the humidity usually sits around 60% for 6 hrs during the day before rising at night due to the cold Temps. How long do I need the humidity to stay low for and can I do anything like tape over the patch and glue to prevent air getting to it?

Cheers.
Reactivate with toluene before application. Not ideal though.

It is better just to have a climate controlled gluing area.
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Old 29 June 2017, 08:19   #13
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Hi @Romeo34, I agree with the post about not ditching the inflatable floor tubes as they are vital to stability and ride. I have put up a series of posts where I repaired a 4.2M Zodiac SIB. I used HH66 Adhesive for many of the PVC to PVC joints where I had to make the joint without being able to guarantee low humidity. This stuff seemed to work very well for me and if you can get it locally it is worth a try. I would be patching over the section you circled in red. Clean, sand and prepare the surface with PVC primer before gluing and if you can, use a clamp with some timber pieces to press the patch onto the speed tube for 2 days curing. I had great results doing similar.
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