Zodiac Mk1 Touring inner floor seam failure

LBI_Mark_1 · 17 August 2015, 13:01

Greetings,

I have a 2003 Zodiac Mk1 Touring (AKA Classic) which I have owned since 2011. It's used for crabbing/fishing/exploring the bays along the coast of southern NJ. It's powered by an 2 stroke 25hp Evirude, and will run up to 30MPH in calm conditions. The fabric is in great condition, showing no signs of UV damage. I apply 303 protectant before each outing, and store the boat on land under a sun cover. I am trying to keep this rig as long as possible.

I have recently noticed that the inner floor seam as come unglued near the transom. I am unsure how long this condition has existed. I have gone over the boat and found no other hint of glue failure, so I'm hoping this is an isolated occurrence. I'm seeking advise from the numerous SIB gurus on these forums on how I can repair this condition, and whether I can expect more of these failures in the near future. I have attached a couple photos of the condition, below. Thanks!

Fenlander · 17 August 2015, 13:16

Can't see the images at the moment... they'd be a great help. I've done a bit of this type of repair work this year and completed to a careful standard the repairs have proved very strong.

cgoing · 17 August 2015, 13:35

Usually that will happen if either the glue dries out or the wood gets wet. Unfortuantely with a used boat there is no way to be sure how it was treated prior to your purchase.

office888 · 17 August 2015, 13:50

I posted a procedure for ungluing/regluing in this thread:
http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/zodiac-m...air-69340.html

Follow it and you'll be golden. It's not difficult if you can follow instructions. Just time consuming.

LBI_Mark_1 · 17 August 2015, 14:14

Thanks, all, for the quick replies. I have updated the image hosting link, which I think, fixed the images.

Office888, being that the floor is holding stong, save for this approximately 3" section, is it possible to preform a "spot" repair, avoiding removing the tubes from the hull?

Fenlander · 17 August 2015, 14:49

Personal opinion... for a DIY owners job as long as you do try and pull the seam apart as far as it will come** then sectional repair made properly with two-part glue is acceptable.

Obviously you will be aware more sections could go the same in the future and keep an eye on them.

** I really mean put some serious effort into pulling them apart.

It's my habit to cast an eye over the seams on any older SIB I'm using at each inflation.

BTW: Still can't see the images.

LBI_Mark_1 · 17 August 2015, 15:02

Another attempt at free image hosting...

Fenlander · 17 August 2015, 15:07

Images fine now.

Have a look at post #36 on this recent thread of mine where I made a repair in the same area on an air floor Bombard. Mine was slightly more crucial as one of the air floor retaining straps was attached there. I made a proper job of the seam where it had pulled apart and them made a small secondary patch for extra reinforcement.

This repair was tested in choppy water at speed for our holiday in Scotland and it held perfectly.

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/aerotec...ice-68545.html

Having some experience of these repairs now my tips are...

Ensure as already mentioned you really have established the extent of the weak part.

Make sure both surfaces are absolutely properly cleaned.

Only use 2-part glue and follow the mixing/timing procedure by the book.

Make sure you have worked out a way of applying pressure to the repair... I found a paint roller best.

Don't skimp on curing time.

Only do if it's warm and not humid.

kelson · 17 August 2015, 15:36

I have a 98 Futura. It has had a few small sections of the flooring come free. I did work to pull apart any of the seam that would readily separate. But most of the floor was firmly bonded and I did not want to damage the material to get it apart. My repairs have held for years and the separations have not progressed. I had to address some small places over the years, but my experience indicates that unless the seam is totally failing repairing sections is not a mistake. It all depends on the overall condition of the glued seams.

Using a fresh two part glue properly with the appropriate preparation works great. If you aren't familiar with the process check out the following link. There is also a link on that page to instructions for hypalon boats. Glue will not bond to old glue! Preperation is everything. Do not ignore the environmental limits. Humidity severely weakens any bond you will get. Information From ShipStore.com | Zodiac Inflatable Boat Fabric Glue and Repair Instructions | GLUE from the ShipStore.com ™ on-line catalog.

office888 · 17 August 2015, 19:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by LBI_Mark_1

Office888, being that the floor is holding stong, save for this approximately 3" section, is it possible to preform a "spot" repair, avoiding removing the tubes from the hull?

Inspect the floor doubler. It should form a "T" against the tubeset...there's a flap that goes some on the outside, some on the inside of the floor? If you can see a gap in the middle so it forms a "Y" against the tube instead of a "T", I would STRONGLY recommend removal and regluing.

If it is flat, inspect the bond strength. Ideally, it should take greater than 20 lb-ft to unglue it. If it takes less than that, then the bond is too weak.

LBI_Mark_1 · 18 August 2015, 13:43

Thanks, all, for the replies. I'm encouraged to hear that others have had success with spot repairs. I will hopefully have a chance this weekend to take the floor boards out and really evaluate the bond strength around the problem area, as well as the condition of the doubler. I will keep the thread updated throughout the process.