Capable offshore RIBs?

[Last Tango]

Sorry Maxwell..you asked about "angle" in an earlier post which I'm assuming is "mean deadrise".

This is the average angle that the chine makes to the horizontal over the waterline length of the boat and for a decent ride you're looking for something approaching 25 degrees. It's not likely to be much more than that but I'd expect somewhere between 22 and 25.

Manufacturer might not advertise it but should know if you ask them.

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Last Tango

Sorry Maxwell..you asked about "angle" in an earlier post which I'm assuming is "mean deadrise".



This is the average angle that the chine makes to the horizontal over the waterline length of the boat and for a decent ride you're looking for something approaching 25 degrees. It's not likely to be much more than that but I'd expect somewhere between 22 and 25.



Manufacturer might not advertise it but should know if you ask them.

Just beware not all manufacturers are quoting equivalent numbers - presumably because it’s much harder to define on boats where the hull shape is not uniform for its whole length. If it were as simple as the magic angle then anyone could make a great hull. What you want is often described as “deep V” but there is no industry standard - one builder may thing 22deg is pretty deep whilst another may say that’s only mid V. The deeper V should give a better ride at the expense of fuel economy/speed. To combat this some designers include a flat section at the rear of the hull known as a planing pad. Hull designs don’t stop there people add chines, spray rails, steps (although perhaps not on boats you will be looking at) to change the way the hull and water interact for a better, faster, dryer, ride. Many manufacturers use the same mould to make multiple lengths of boat but any sophisticated hull shape probably works better at some lengths than others and some even have the same model names available in wide and narrow beam options. Once you add the variability of the tubes, engine, seat and console layout, fuel tanks etc it becomes near impossible to look at a boats stats and know for sure if she’ll be any good - that’s why everyone is encouraging you to give them a try. I think it’s also important to spend some time looking at how boats are finished. When you see the attention to detail that some builders put in to how they have wired up the electronics and bolted down the hardware you will start to notice (and cringe) when you pop your nose into a console and see a mass of red spaghetti.

[Mollers]

Redbay
Ribcraft
XS
Osprey
Parker

No point in mucking about. In no particular wheat sorted from chaff.

[MaxwellSegal]

Thanks for that. I'm in contact with Redbay and Ribcraft now...

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by MaxwellSegal

Thanks for that. I'm in contact with Redbay and Ribcraft now...

Just bear in mind that both of those manufacturers concentrate on the commercial end of the market. As such, timescales, response times maybe, "ahem" commercial. Don't expect a retail orientated salesman to be chasing you & grabbing your arm off. You may get a price, eventually, & the price will reflect how busy they are & how much they need your business. There won't be much wriggle room.

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by MaxwellSegal

Thanks for that. I'm in contact with Redbay and Ribcraft now...

Keep a search going for a very good used rig. Your budget is a little light for a new well spec'd 6m+ outfit, but perfectly healthy enough for a bang tidy lightly used beauty.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Mollers

Keep a search going for a very good used rig. Your budget is a little light for a new well spec'd 6m+ outfit, but perfectly healthy enough for a bang tidy lightly used beauty.

^^^^^^^
Wot he said[emoji106]

[Dan Gurney]

Originally Posted by Mollers

Keep a search going for a very good used rig. Your budget is a little light for a new well spec'd 6m+ outfit, but perfectly healthy enough for a bang tidy lightly used beauty.

Like I say: based on Redbays 2018 price list you could do a new 6.1 but that's yet lot. You might need to compromise on toys too. I you're patient enough I think used is a better bet.

Personally I couldn't wait which is why we ended up buying new.

[jwalker]

IMO, keep your mind open. Poly's post is good advice, and don't choose a boat just because it looks good. Look about the west coast and check out what folk are using, it's likely they too will have done their research and they will have good reason to have their boats. The waves around Skye, indeed, around the western islands, are frequently very mixed and don't have a simple wave pattern - waves reflect off shores and islands, they refract around coastlines and headlands, they can and will completely wrap around an island and where you expect shelter you find a serious mess of waves interacting with each other. The general rules for boat handling - you do this in head seas, you do that in following seas, don't completely go out of the window but you'll find yourself in situations where every wave lifts you up and puts you down in a different position, where an underlying wave train thumps your hull, where holes open up when unexpected. The sea surface can't be predicted except in general terms. In conditions like these, whether a boat can travel at 40knots, looks the part, has the finest of finishes, is made by nice guys will be completely irrelevant! You need a hull and tube configuration which keeps you safe, keeps you comfortable, handles well and keeps you secure so you can be confident that it'll look after you. Your boating pleasure will be enhanced by knowing you have a well found boat.

With regard to hull length, it is true that small boats can go places a larger boat can go but it's a case of 'it ain't what they can do, it's the way that they do it'. Every 1/2 meter extra length makes a difference and there's absolutely no comparison between a 6mtr boat and a 10mtr boat in terms of sea keeping.

With regard to hull and tubes; if a hull has overhanging tubes the hull will be short in comparison to the overall boat length and vice versa. So two apparently similar boats will have very different handling. If a boat has high tubes when sitting it'll be rocky-rolley at all times, if it has tubes clear of the water when under way it'll have less drag so be more fuel efficient, if it has tubes which remain in the water at all times it'll be extremely stable, even when the going gets tough but it'll be less fuel efficient and may give harder landing off waves because the tubes prevent a some hull sinking which can absorb some of the shock off a landing. This also goes for hulls with large planing flats or chines - these can be particularly fast boats but harsh too.
A large high bow will plenty of lift and the stability of a pronounced bow tube is especially good in steep short mixed seas.

Something to know - all hulls will have a wavelength which is not good for them, even massive vessels have this limitation. There's plenty of vids on YouTube to illustrate this and although the vids are often extreme examples, the same principles apply in lesser seas.

There's a lot more to this boating lark than is immediately apparent....

[breezeblock]

There's a lot more to this boating lark than is immediately apparent....[/QUOTE]

and the route to get there isn't cheap

[Mollers]

If you want to go super serious. RIBCRAFT 7.8m Commercial Adventure - Red EnsignRed Ensign

She's located down here and about £20k over priced.

[Mollers]

http://www.rib.net/forum/f21/osprey-...-ho-79754.html

Don't muck about, get this bought.
I've just sold a virtually identical rig which I'd owned for 10yrs. I did many offshore passages with her inc. the Channel Islands. We did regular Scilly trips with her, often in very testing conditions.
To say that there is a better offshore 7m rig than this would only be a matter of opinion and brand bias. IMV this is right up there with as good as it gets.

[jambo]

Originally Posted by Mollers

http://www.rib.net/forum/f21/osprey-...-ho-79754.html



Don't muck about, get this bought.

I've just sold a virtually identical rig which I'd owned for 10yrs. I did many offshore passages with her inc. the Channel Islands. We did regular Scilly trips with her, often in very testing conditions.

To say that there is a better offshore 7m rig than this would only be a matter of opinion and brand bias. IMV this is right up there with as good as it gets.

Got to agree with you Mollie. As someone who has a rib in the West it ticks all the boxes[emoji106]

[Last Tango]

Originally Posted by Poly

Just beware not all manufacturers are quoting equivalent numbers - presumably because it’s much harder to define on boats where the hull shape is not uniform for its whole length. If it were as simple as the magic angle then anyone could make a great hull. What you want is often described as “deep V” but there is no industry standard - one builder may thing 22deg is pretty deep whilst another may say that’s only mid V. The deeper V should give a better ride at the expense of fuel economy/speed. To combat this some designers include a flat section at the rear of the hull known as a planing pad. Hull designs don’t stop there people add chines, spray rails, steps (although perhaps not on boats you will be looking at) to change the way the hull and water interact for a better, faster, dryer, ride. Many manufacturers use the same mould to make multiple lengths of boat but any sophisticated hull shape probably works better at some lengths than others and some even have the same model names available in wide and narrow beam options. Once you add the variability of the tubes, engine, seat and console layout, fuel tanks etc it becomes near impossible to look at a boats stats and know for sure if she’ll be any good - that’s why everyone is encouraging you to give them a try. I think it’s also important to spend some time looking at how boats are finished. When you see the attention to detail that some builders put in to how they have wired up the electronics and bolted down the hardware you will start to notice (and cringe) when you pop your nose into a console and see a mass of red spaghetti.

All of this is true.......

But you're still looking for a mean deadrise of around 25 degrees and the cost in terms of fuel burn and top speed is very marginal.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jambo

Got to agree with you Mollie. As someone who has a rib in the West it ticks all the boxes[emoji106]

Rock n rolla is for sale too

[jambo]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Rock n rolla is for sale too

Yep also ticks the boxes [emoji106]

[Last Tango]

Originally Posted by Xk59D

...........although I wouldn't leave it on a mooring if decent slip available, but another topic................

There's merit in this point.

If you're only holidaying up there, pulling the boat out after two or three weeks and giving the hull a blast with a pressure washer could do away with the need to antifoul it, (Really a PIA,) and you could leave it on the trailer with a proper hap over it to protect from UV and seagull shit (you'll learn to hate them)..........

[Dan Gurney]

Originally Posted by jambo

Yep also ticks the boxes [emoji106]

Suspect it might run you more than 45 though.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Dan Gurney

Suspect it might run you more than 45 though.

Can but ask[emoji6]

[Dan Gurney]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Can but ask[emoji6]

Well yes, they say God loves a tryer (trier?)