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31 January 2013, 14:52
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Widnes
Boat name: Master-Baiter
Make: Europa R520 Sport
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 75hp Optimax
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 55
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3 Way Fuel Valve
Afternoon Gents,
I currently have a set up of 2 Quicksilver 25L fuel tanks under my rear bench.
I have yet to use my rib however I have been thinking...
At the moment on running out of fuel in one tank, I would have to open the bench and mess about trying to swap the fuel lines over.
Is there anyway I could get another fuel tank connector & pipe.
Have two pipes from the tanks going into a little isolator sort of thing.
When one runs out switch it over by turning a valve?
Obviously the pipe coming out would go to the priming bulb then the engine.
Does anybody know if and where I can purchase one of these on-line?
And a new fuel tank connector & pipe?
Attached image of how I think I would like it.
Thank you in advance for your help.;
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31 January 2013, 15:24
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#2
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyhuddy
Afternoon Gents,
I currently have a set up of 2 Quicksilver 25L fuel tanks under my rear bench.
I have yet to use my rib however I have been thinking...
At the moment on running out of fuel in one tank, I would have to open the bench and mess about trying to swap the fuel lines over.
Is there anyway I could get another fuel tank connector & pipe.
Have two pipes from the tanks going into a little isolator sort of thing.
When one runs out switch it over by turning a valve?
Obviously the pipe coming out would go to the priming bulb then the engine.
Does anybody know if and where I can purchase one of these on-line?
And a new fuel tank connector & pipe?
Attached image of how I think I would like it.
Thank you in advance for your help.;
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Hi
Would you not need two priming bulbs to refill the filter etc and feed both tanks to one filter ?
Have a look here
Marine, Automotive, and Industrial Parts and Spares - A.S.A.P Supplies
Jim
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31 January 2013, 15:32
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Widnes
Boat name: Master-Baiter
Make: Europa R520 Sport
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 75hp Optimax
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim
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Hi,
Thanks for your reply.
Although im not sure, one fuel tank would be isolated whilst the other is in use, I am guessing that it would go -
Tank - Fuel Switch - Bulb
So I think I will just use the current set up of 1 :/
:S confused myself haha
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31 January 2013, 15:40
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#4
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Member
Country: France
Town: Côte d'Azur
Boat name: Beaver Patrol
Make: Avon Searider SR4
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,934
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Your best bet would be to install a fuel filter/separator which has two inputs on it, inside the locker. You could then fit an on/off tap to each of the inputs, with a hose from that running to the fuel tank. You then simply need a single hose coming off that filter in the conventional manner, with a priming bulb on it, running to your engine.
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31 January 2013, 15:41
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,299
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on Ribs in use this, on Sibs however i would keep it simply and just use one pipe to a single tank and swap over manually. the Tohatsu and/or Suzuki are the easiest to change
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31 January 2013, 15:43
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#6
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Member
Country: France
Town: Côte d'Azur
Boat name: Beaver Patrol
Make: Avon Searider SR4
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,934
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Or, much more simple (than my rambling above) simply fit quick release connections to the tanks. You then only need one fuel hose - just take it off one tank and connect onto the other when the time comes.
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31 January 2013, 16:05
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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I think the "quad bike tap" would be too restrictive, so I'd go a min of 8mm bore size with a 3 way valve
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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31 January 2013, 16:14
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Widnes
Boat name: Master-Baiter
Make: Europa R520 Sport
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 75hp Optimax
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler
I think the "quad bike tap" would be too restrictive, so I'd go a min of 8mm bore size with a 3 way valve
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Cheers,
Do you know where I could get one of these 8mm Valves?
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31 January 2013, 16:23
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#10
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider 450 Rib
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 5/18/30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,998
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Which engine is it ? Have a open 420 rib, for long cruising activities have installed two 6 gal tanks, one located at bow, other at middle deck, each with it' own priming bulb connected to two independent fuel connectors located at front engine. There's a internal plastic Y that connects both rear connectors to fuel pump entrance.
For selecting tank, open any tank air vent and close the opposite, when engine starts to miss due to low fuel level, open second tank vent and close first. Will need to prime tank 1 till bulb is firm, prime tank 2 till you see fuel exiting FM connector (must keep valve open with finger, pen, point whatever when primming) then connect to second male connector. This is to have a filled fuel line for the engine to demand fuel inmediately from second tank when needed and avoid priming second tank bulb again when underway.
This is a dual tank Tohatsu 18 horse, can use single or dual tanks depending on your outing. Being a open rib can't use a fuel selector.
Happy Boating
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31 January 2013, 16:38
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#11
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Dinard, Brittany
Boat name: Into the Red
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evinrude E-tec 250HO
MMSI: 235 076 114
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locozodiac
Which engine is it ? Have a open 420 rib, for long cruising activities have installed two 6 gal tanks, one located at bow, other at middle deck, each with it' own priming bulb connected to two independent fuel connectors located at front engine. There's a internal plastic Y that connects both rear connectors to fuel pump entrance.
For selecting tank, open any tank air vent and close the opposite, when engine starts to miss due to low fuel level, open second tank vent and close first. Will need to prime tank 1 till bulb is firm, prime tank 2 till you see fuel exiting FM connector (must keep valve open with finger, pen, point whatever when primming) then connect to second male connector so to have a filled fuel line for the engine to demand fuel inmediately from second tank.
This is a dual tank Tohatsu 18 horse, can use single or dual tanks depending on your outing. Being a open rib can't use a fuel selector.
Happy Boating
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That makes sense...just use the Y-connector and close the air vents when not needed? Or alternatively leave both open the whole time, what would be the issue with that...?
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31 January 2013, 16:51
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Widnes
Boat name: Master-Baiter
Make: Europa R520 Sport
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 75hp Optimax
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotchiguy
That makes sense...just use the Y-connector and close the air vents when not needed? Or alternatively leave both open the whole time, what would be the issue with that...?
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That sounds perfect, I can easily get to the vents.
So I will just need a new tube, Tank connector & Y connector.
Am right in presuming if I close the vent of one tank and open the other the fuel will only be taken from the open?
And is it possible just to leave both tank vents open? Will the engine just take fuel from both then until empty? That would be ideal!
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31 January 2013, 16:54
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyhuddy
And is it possible just to leave both tank vents open? Will the engine just take fuel from both then until empty? That would be ideal!
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If both tanks have fuel it'd work, but once one runs out you'll be sucking air, maybe running lean and pop the motor.
Don't be cheap, do it properly!
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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31 January 2013, 16:59
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Widnes
Boat name: Master-Baiter
Make: Europa R520 Sport
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 75hp Optimax
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler
If both tanks have fuel it'd work, but once one runs out you'll be sucking air, maybe running lean and pop the motor.
Don't be cheap, do it properly!
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Good Point!
I just need to find one of these damn 3 way valves!
Help anyone?!
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31 January 2013, 17:06
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#15
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Dinard, Brittany
Boat name: Into the Red
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evinrude E-tec 250HO
MMSI: 235 076 114
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyhuddy
Good Point!
I just need to find one of these damn 3 way valves!
Help anyone?!
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Try this
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31 January 2013, 17:45
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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__________________
It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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31 January 2013, 20:08
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Widnes
Boat name: Master-Baiter
Make: Europa R520 Sport
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 75hp Optimax
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 55
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Cheers for the links.
Is 1/4" diameter large enough?
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31 January 2013, 22:11
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyhuddy
Cheers,
Do you know where I could get one of these 8mm Valves?
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You can get 8mm taps suitable for fuel from toolstation cheap.they have a base with two holes in them so you could fix them something on the inside of your bench.only problem is they are conpression fitting so you would have to put a stub of pipe in the comression fitting and slide you fuel tube over it with a clip.maybe you could make whole spliter bit in copper?
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