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23 August 2006, 23:14
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
Still going to get a quote for a stainless A frame though, ..
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Be sure to design it well. A flexing stainless frame will crack more easily that you might imagine.
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JW.
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23 August 2006, 23:18
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#22
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Brown
I have a Humber Destroyer 6m, and the aux engine went on the back dim problem.
I think as said earlier on this thread, your engine is quite wide, whereas mine is quite narrow. My a-frame is on the inside of the transom, but I can't see how that would make much difference. The engine does nearly 360, but I get more than 180 degrees out of it which is great cos you can make the boat behave just like a tug with a Z-Drive underneath
edit: sorry, I have just seen - my a-frame curves over the tubes the moment it is above the transom which allows the engine to go in place.
If you want any more pics, let me know.
-Alex
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Thanks Alex, that's the sort of A frame shape I have in mind (though a single tube), hopefully will be able to get somebody to make me one which will fit in the original holes to save ending up with a transom that looks like a bit of Swiss cheese!
If you could take a photo of yours where it actually bolts on, that would be great, thanks
email is sclfk (at) horizon [dot] co [dot] fk
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23 August 2006, 23:21
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#23
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Be sure to design it well. A flexing stainless frame will crack more easily that you might imagine.
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Erm ... aaaargh! Something else to go wrong
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24 August 2006, 07:25
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#24
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Hi
I had the same problem on my searider so beefed up the A frame to take the bracket and added some loops to tie it top and bottom
When I did mine someone on here sent me a picture of some good brackets i'll post it if I can find it
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24 August 2006, 08:05
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#25
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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found it
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24 August 2006, 08:10
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Aquaholic
Make: Ribeye
Length: 7m +
Engine: 250 V8
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,323
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thats the one I was looking for!
I think I posted it before
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24 August 2006, 09:34
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#27
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benc
thats the one I was looking for!
I think I posted it before
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yep you sent it to me
James
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24 August 2006, 11:56
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#28
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim
Hi
I had the same problem on my searider so beefed up the A frame to take the bracket and added some loops to tie it top and bottom
When I did mine someone on here sent me a picture of some good brackets i'll post it if I can find it
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Thanks - that's a neat idea. I don't know if my A frame would be strong enough to do that but I have plenty of alternatives to fiddle with now! I also see the other pic shows what appears to be a horizontally offset bracket which may be another solution.
Thanks to all who have contributed to the thread
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26 August 2006, 21:04
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#29
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Well after some fiddling and measuring, I decided that the the A frame had to go, and there is plenty of room now ... the A frame bolt holes now have some S/S eye bolts to fill them up, two on the outside in case I ever need to tow anything (replacing the stupid wiggly hooks that were on there before) and two on the inside which will give me something strong to tie the mooring line back to, as well as something to put a rope off the aux on to just in case it falls in the oggin
All I need to do now is sort out somewhere to stick some nav lights and the VHF aerial, it has been suggested to me that you can get an all-in-one red/green and all round white light, and that I could stick one of these on a single pole at the back of the seat base. Anybody got this setup, or where do you have your nav lights on a RIB without an A frame? I suppose the side of the console is an option, though they might glare a bit if they are in front of you?
The harbourmaster says that the Prevention of Collision regs require nav lights to be fitted even on a RIB, but he didn't seem too bothered about a "temporary absence".
Also found out why my VHF reception was crap, because the coax going into the plug wasn't sealed properly and had suffered from serious corrosion and water ingress ... so that's another job on the list then.... run some new coax right the way through. Ho hum
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26 August 2006, 21:14
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Why don't you put a single pole on the other side of the transom? It wont be on the centre line so not strictly correct but it'll only be off centre by 500mm or so and viewing your boat from a distance, that'll be neither here not there. And you can still lean against it when having a pee.
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JW.
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26 August 2006, 21:27
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#31
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Why don't you put a single pole on the other side of the transom? It wont be on the centre line so not strictly correct but it'll only be off centre by 500mm or so and viewing your boat from a distance, that'll be neither here not there. And you can still lean against it when having a pee.
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That's one option I'm thinking about, to saw up the existing A frame (its not much use for anything else) to leave a pole about 2ft above the transom, weld a bracket on the top for the VHF aerial and put the nav lights on that just below the aerial. The only thing about having them on the same pole is that they would be so close together you'd not be able to distinguish red from green so you wouldn't see which way I was going. It's academic anyway as I don't intend to use it at night ... but I do need an aerial mount, and sooner rather than later.
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26 August 2006, 21:42
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#32
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
That's one option I'm thinking about, to saw up the existing A frame (its not much use for anything else) to leave a pole about 2ft above the transom, weld a bracket on the top for the VHF aerial and put the nav lights on that just below the aerial. The only thing about having them on the same pole is that they would be so close together you'd not be able to distinguish red from green so you wouldn't see which way I was going. It's academic anyway as I don't intend to use it at night ... but I do need an aerial mount, and sooner rather than later.
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eh.... your nav lights should have reflectors on them (or shaped lenses) so the side lights (red/green) are only visible if approaching from around 120 deg either side of the bow. The only way you should be able to see both lights is if you are heading straight for your bow (or near enough).
Even reusing your existing lights should be possible although not as pretty as a combined light. Only problem I can fosee with sticking coms on top of the light is you need the white light to be "all round" - so normally goes at the top of a pole.
There is allowance in the regs for mounting lights off the centre line where it is not practical to do so (which without your a frame it probably isn't).
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26 August 2006, 22:17
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#33
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart
eh.... your nav lights should have reflectors on them (or shaped lenses) so the side lights (red/green) are only visible if approaching from around 120 deg either side of the bow. The only way you should be able to see both lights is if you are heading straight for your bow (or near enough).
Even reusing your existing lights should be possible although not as pretty as a combined light. Only problem I can fosee with sticking coms on top of the light is you need the white light to be "all round" - so normally goes at the top of a pole.
There is allowance in the regs for mounting lights off the centre line where it is not practical to do so (which without your a frame it probably isn't).
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One of them has - the other one is broken
I realised what they were supposed to be like when looking at various websites a little while ago for replacements. 'Kin hell some of them are expensive! I saw a cheap "universal" set in the chandlery I visited while over there on holiday, wish I had bought them now!
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26 August 2006, 23:10
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#34
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
The only thing about having them on the same pole is that they would be so close together you'd not be able to distinguish red from green so you wouldn't see which way I was going.
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JW.
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27 August 2006, 12:20
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#35
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Torbay
Boat name: Loupy Lou
Make: Yamaha 480R
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50HP
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 147
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These might help you
light regs
lights
Though again I have seen tri lights much cheaper some where else - cannot remember where though at moment
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27 August 2006, 12:25
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#36
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
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It's ok, ignore me - I was talking blx....
Neat little all in one port/stbd light here on order from Marinestore Chandlery and then it'll be time to knock up a pole out of the old A frame
Thanks
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27 August 2006, 22:51
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#37
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ilford
Boat name: El Rekko
Make: DUX
Length: under 3m
Engine: 8hp OB
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20
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Stephen, if you wish to comply exactly with the IRPCS I believe you will need to ensure that your white masthead all round light is mounted 1 metre above your sidelights....from annex 1 of the RYA IRPCS book.
Additionally you may want to check price and availability of replacement bulbs for the lamp you are considering. I had one like it once and the festoon bulb within is a special....hard to get on a wet winter night and expensive. Not your normal car type festoon bulb. I am not certain but you may want to check it out.
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27 August 2006, 23:35
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#38
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrick
Stephen, if you wish to comply exactly with the IRPCS I believe you will need to ensure that your white masthead all round light is mounted 1 metre above your sidelights....from annex 1 of the RYA IRPCS book.
Additionally you may want to check price and availability of replacement bulbs for the lamp you are considering. I had one like it once and the festoon bulb within is a special....hard to get on a wet winter night and expensive. Not your normal car type festoon bulb. I am not certain but you may want to check it out.
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Thanks - I've already ordered them unfortunately... but I'll check out the bulbs when they arrive. It is mostly for compliance rather than because I actually need them - I don't intend to do any night time travelling and I don't expect that to change - nice sunny days are where my ribbing belongs
The info I got from the harbourmaster was:
"I quote below Rule 23 (Lights for Power-driven Vessels Underway), Section (c)(i) from the Prevention of Collisions Regulations:
a power-driven vessel of less than 12 metre in length may in lieu of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) (which are masthead,stern and sidelights as required by a ship) of this Rule exhibit an all-round white light and sidelights.
There is a further Section (c) (iii) which might be helpful:
the masthead light or all-round white light on a power-driven vessel of less than 12 metres in length may be displaced from the fore and aft centreline of the vessel if centreline fitting is not practicable, provided that the sidlights are combined in one lantern which shall be carried on the fore and aft centreline of the vessel or located as nearly as practicable in the same fore and aft line as the masthead light or the all-round white light."
I'm honestly not sure whether the regs here are the same as UK, based on it, or completely different, but I think as long as I've got lights, I doubt anybody is going to squawk too much about exactly where they are. Hope not anyway
Found this which is interesting - gotta go and read it now....
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27 August 2006, 23:52
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#39
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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The bulbs are like normal festoon bulbs but they have a dimple in the end rather than a point. However, it doesn't take much, with a pair of pliers, to re-engineer the contacts.
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