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Old 13 October 2010, 11:30   #1
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Adding external tanks to fuel system

As thread above....have an inboard tank, but want to increase range with some atop deck plastic tanks.....for a long journey (don't want to be faffing about with Gerry cans).

Have a 150 Opti and a water separating filter on the transom.....would like a system where i can switch between the main tank and the plastic (s) without any disconnection etc.

Has anyone got anything similar /have any pics /details of the kit required?...and where to buy?

Was told the Opti doesn't like connectors (other than barbed type) as it restricts fuel flow and can damage injectors.....is this correct??

Any advice appreciated as always

Dan
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Old 13 October 2010, 11:36   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Worth View Post
As thread above....have an inboard tank, but want to increase range with some atop deck plastic tanks.....for a long journey (don't want to be faffing about with Gerry cans).

Have a 150 Opti and a water separating filter on the transom.....would like a system where i can switch between the main tank and the plastic (s) without any disconnection etc.

Has anyone got anything similar /have any pics /details of the kit required?...and where to buy?

Was told the Opti doesn't like connectors (other than barbed type) as it restricts fuel flow and can damage injectors.....is this correct??

Any advice appreciated as always

Dan
How many inlets does your filter have?
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Old 13 October 2010, 12:31   #3
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You could use an 'L Port Changeover Valve' on the inlet of your filter. This will enable you to swap the inlet from the inboard tank to the loose tank(s) with a 90 degree turn of a lever.

http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/...-nickel-plated
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Old 13 October 2010, 12:35   #4
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You could use an 'L Port Changeover Valve' on the inlet of your filter. This will enable you to swap the inlet from the inboard tank to the loose tank(s) with a 90 degree turn of a lever.

http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/...-nickel-plated
As it's an opti it will probably need the 2" ones
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Old 13 October 2010, 12:49   #5
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Hi Dan

That is exactly what I have done, just be carefull that you use 3/8 fuel lines and not the smaller 5/16 meant for small outboards also make sure you use portable tanks that have suitable sized pickups. My engine is only a 115 which is the biggest recomended for portable tanks, but I still altered everything to be 3/8 fittings. I got the parts from ASAP as has already been suggested, attached is a piccie of the installation in mark one version, I have since replaced as much as possible with stainless and all new hoses.

Keith
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Old 13 October 2010, 13:13   #6
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Fab, thanks guys....Brad, that looks just the ticket!

Uncle Al, sorry to have missed your call, day off with Barney today and he had taken my phone off the table!

So, bearing in mind the regular loose type tanks could be an issue (and as Unlce Al said, may draw in air and damage injectors etc) so, what type of tank could I use? Ebay has plastic tanks for underdeck use....presume these wouldbe okay strapped down securely on deck (can utilise the floor dowls we use for the removeable jockey seats for fixing straps etc)....

Something like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FUEL-TANK-PLAS...item1e5eed0301

Any other suggestions appreciated!

Thanks, Dan
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Old 13 October 2010, 13:14   #7
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I remember Jono Garton's old orange rib just had a standard 25L fuel tank connector on the spare inlet of the fuel filter that took standard tank fuel line connectors. As long as you can shut off your main tank, it should work.

We have two 75L tanks in the console and have a switch to choose off/port/starboard. By turning to off and connecting to the spare inlet connector (I intend to purchase) it should work.

I imagine it to be a bit cheaper than the £130 2" ball valve!
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Old 13 October 2010, 13:16   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Worth View Post

Something like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FUEL-TANK-PLAS...item1e5eed0301

Any other suggestions appreciated!

Thanks, Dan
I used a smaller one of those in my old boat, pretty good and you can even buy a mechanical guage to to fit in the sender hole, save messing with electrics etc. if it's a temporary thing.
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Old 13 October 2010, 13:21   #9
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I used a smaller one of those in my old boat, pretty good and you can even buy a mechanical guage to to fit in the sender hole, save messing with electrics etc. if it's a temporary thing.
What HP Jizm? Opti?
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Old 13 October 2010, 13:26   #10
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I have this system in place, two 23L plastic tanks, one each side feeding to a filter via a fuel switch valve and onward to an engine.

I keep mine there as a reserve fuel system. During long hauls, I don't use them.

Some food for thought, Dan: Will you use the deck tanks first or last? If first, you will be watching them as they run low and have to switch 'em early in case you airlock, leaving about 4-5 liters in each one.... If you use them last, same problem but you've already sucked the main tank dry

If you use jerry cans, you can top up the main when possible and not worry about switching. There's very little faffing with jerry cans if you use a couple of jiggle siphons to fill them into the main tank/s (i.e. no spillage). Top tip - if using jiggle siphons, run the lift side through a length of light plastic pipe - keeps the suction point low in the can
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Old 13 October 2010, 14:13   #11
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As it's an opti it will probably need the 2" ones
Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL View Post
I imagine it to be a bit cheaper than the £130 2" ball valve!
You don't honestly think Jizm was being,......, no you couldn't have,........


Could you?
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Old 13 October 2010, 14:21   #12
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Oh yes, didn't even think about it.

I missed the sarcasm in the tone of his typing, hinting at the wonders of Opti fuel consumption i presume.

Taxi for one please...

I'll get me coat!
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Old 13 October 2010, 15:17   #13
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What HP Jizm? Opti?
On my boat it was a 50hp Yamaha triple but used one with a Yam V4 115hp aswell with no problems.
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Old 13 October 2010, 15:34   #14
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Here's my set-up for running 1 engine off multiple tanks using quick release couplings (225 opti)

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Old 13 October 2010, 18:06   #15
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Fab, thanks guys....Brad, that looks just the ticket!

Uncle Al, sorry to have missed your call, day off with Barney today and he had taken my phone off the table!

So, bearing in mind the regular loose type tanks could be an issue (and as Unlce Al said, may draw in air and damage injectors etc) so, what type of tank could I use? Ebay has plastic tanks for underdeck use....presume these wouldbe okay strapped down securely on deck (can utilise the floor dowls we use for the removeable jockey seats for fixing straps etc)....

Something like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FUEL-TANK-PLAS...item1e5eed0301

Any other suggestions appreciated!

Thanks, Dan
International Marune Supplies have a great selection of inboard & portable tanks and all the other kit you may need to add a fuel tank.

http://www.imsupplies.co.uk/home.php

John
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Old 14 October 2010, 08:41   #16
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Here's my set-up for running 1 engine off multiple tanks using quick release couplings (225 opti)

Think you dropped a washer on the a frame foot, is that for one of the other 3 bolts? or from the fuel filter mounting plate?
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Old 14 October 2010, 08:49   #17
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The a-frame was just temporary positioned at this stage. You may notice there's no hole drilled in the deck either
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Old 14 October 2010, 09:01   #18
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The a-frame was just temporary positioned at this stage. You may notice there's no hole drilled in the deck either
Looks very smart Martini
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Old 14 October 2010, 09:40   #19
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Looks very smart Martini
Indeed, i only noticed it as i had my A frame off at the weekend after finding it leaked - due in no small part to the chuffin great bolt holes that went all the way through to the outside

So bucket loads of Sikaflex later problem solved -then i noticed a spare washer, just like in your photo - back off again and more sikaflex problem resolved.
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Old 14 October 2010, 09:56   #20
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Optis - seriously - damage injectors & get nasty air locks if it runs dry?

I would hope the emissions gubbinry would detect it going lean & shut down before injector damage occurs, and if there is no vent / return line to the fuel rail well...... someone in Merc's design team needs a slap!

If this is a serious issue, all you need is a flow sensor on the portable tank line. I;ve seen NMEA 2K ones on a website somewhere, so you could fit one near the tank (so that it detects no flow wit ha safety margian in the pipe) and set an alarm on your plotter.
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