Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh Its got a Wet Transom

[darklordhill]

My most recent acquisition the Chinook sea fury was looking like its general clean and tidy up was going so well until, Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I spotted the outboard bolt holes in the transom were not sealed and were getting wet where the boat is currently stored outside.
I took a closer look and drilled a few exploratory holes below the bolt holes and found the ply inside wet

With my head in my hands I started to think about scrapping it and cutting my loses early, But instead I have spent the last two days searching and reading about Transom repairs.

Up until tonight I have not found the answers I was hoping for But have just read a few pages by rotdoctor.com that has made me believe I can definitely do it myself.
Wood preservation, rot repair, and restoration using epoxy resin on boats, homes and log homes.

After reading the rot doctor article I am thinking about cutting / grinding the fibreglass from the back of the transom and exposing the wet ply then pulling it out and replacing it.

I have read a few threads on here and was hoping to get some more advice before starting.

My questions are
Is this going to be a good repair or am I ?
Has anyone else tried this ?

Thanks in advance

[Bigtalljv]

I'm not sure about the specifics of your boat but a transom replacement is reasonably straight forward. The boat building forum I frequent here in the USA has people doing it all the time to hard boats. Bateau2.com - Technical support for builders

Jason

[darklordhill]

Thanks Jason
I just had a quick look at Boat Builder Central - Howtos | Transom Repair - page 1 its good to see how its done.

I am hoping not to have to completely replace, just remove the wet part and patch up.

[darklordhill]

Has anyone ever used a liquid wood hardener and if so which brand would you recommend.

[paintman]

I think just replacing bits is going to adversely affect the overall strength & rigidity of the transom due to the joints.

[darklordhill]

Originally Posted by paintman

I think just replacing bits is going to adversely affect the overall strength & rigidity of the transom due to the joints.

The two websites that I have been reading seem to think it will be ok, and some others seem to be of the opinion that it would be ok to just dry it out fill it up and carry on regardless.

I'm getting the picture that if its not soft or cracking then its likely going to be ok for a while longer.

I have hit it all over with a hammer and it sounds solid (If there is such a sound)

It has been suggested that I make a thick plate for the outboard to bolt through to spread the load.

I am going to ask charles dyas who built the sea fury and kevin from hotribs what thy think as they have been a great help with info on the sea fury up to now. I am told the sea fury was a very strong / heavy build so may take a lot to break it.

[Bigtalljv]

And probably not be much less work.

[Trimix]

Id cut it out and replace it all properly - otherwise Id spend my whole time on it wondering when it was going to fail.

It is afterall a pretty important part of the boat - given that the engine is mounted to it

Id cut it out myself and then get it replaced professionaly - isnt it just glue, wood and fiberglass ?

(not that I have any flipping idea, but if you have access to Google and some time you can do anything)

Afterall its not like your repacing the floor of the moon lander, or the roof of a submarine.

[darklordhill]

Originally Posted by Trimix

Id cut it out and replace it all properly - otherwise Id spend my whole time on it wondering when it was going to fail.

The more I search the more I find that a lot of peoples old boats have some water ingress of some sort. and have not had detrimental effects.

I think I would be more concerned if the damp /wet wood were in the top half of the transom.
As I picture it, If it were to break I imagine it would break away from there under load.
The top half of mine is dry, It is just below the bottom outboard mount holes that is wet, Which is below the deck line and it seems much thicker there.

The previous owner has said that it was all fine when he took the old motor off mid way through last year, But he neglected to fill the holes so has sat soaking up since then.

I am hoping it has not done to much damage and that I have caught it time.

[SpearRib]

bad luck :-(

I never screw anything into a transom, but do have a bolt through engine on mine, but it was pro done with a backing plate at the bottom inside and all holes using marine sealant.

How big were these holes that were unsealed?

I bet you when you finish you will be the most fastidious transom owner ever :-)

Cant wait to see pics :-) Good luck.

[darklordhill]

Originally Posted by SpearRib

bad luck

I bet you when you finish you will be the most fastidious transom owner ever :-)
.

Hahahaha Fastidious Me hahahaha

British Dictionary definitions for fastidious
adjective
1. Excessively particular about details, critical, or demanding; hard to please:
2. Requiring or characterized by excessive care or delicacy; painstaking.
3. Exceedingly delicate; easily disgusted

hahahaha............. Hang on a minute I think your right, I must be getting An*l in my old age.

oh and the holes are 10mm, there were two of them but after exploratory drilling there is now about 20 x 3mm holes as well.

[nugent]

Just ripped a wet one out my self today. Yuk. job

[darklordhill]

I have been reading that you are somewhat of an expert at this.

Have you left the tubes attached then and Is that the outside fibreglass in the last pic ?
If so I presume you have cut the inside fibreglass and removed the ply that way.

[nugent]

Originally Posted by darklordhill

I have been reading that you are somewhat of an expert at this. Have you left the tubes attached then and Is that the outside fibreglass in the last pic ? If so I presume you have cut the inside fibreglass and removed the ply that way.

Far from an expert just a good learner ,,,
Yep peeled every thing away from inside leaving outer skin in tack. ,,tubes was heat up and de bonded from transom internally only,, I will re bond when completed

Original was only 18mm ply now 38.mm for extra strength with bonded knees ,,,,
Will post pic completed am tomoz

[darklordhill]

My problem (apart from buying this rib) is more like below the transom/deck level, As most of the damp/wet patches are below the outboard mount holes in the hull.

The area around the original mount holes are drying nicely now, But after more exploratory drilling ( 40x 3mm holes ) I think I may be at the point of no return.

As mine is in the lower rear end I guess I would have to cut all the back out to get at the ply.
It just looks like such an extreme job I may patch it up and put a thick alloy spread plate either side the transom as has been suggested to me and just get out on it.

I also keep thinking that before this and the ribtec I had a sr5.4 and that had 3 large 5-6inch holes in the transom and hull, Two for the trunks and one for flooding hull, That back end was still solid so If I were to just cut out the worst part down around the drain plug I may get away without all the drama.

[beamishken]

If your going to do the job do it from inside you will need to remove a section of floor but its a much stronger job to leave the hull in tact & replace from inside
I'd stop drilling holes your transom is starting to resemble something made by tetley 😉

[SpearRib]

Im sure of heard of solid resin transoms before. I guess they might cost a fair bit and dont know if its a DIY job.

Sounds like your onto it.

[nugent]

It's got to be replaced, you will regret it later if you do not,,,

As mentioned you will need to cut a section of floor away to do,so but not hard to hide afterwards when complete ,,,
just anti slip coat the floor it will be fine,,

This viper had a twin rig set up,originally and it's been badged and hacked at to take a single with an ugly plate know which pic I prefer