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24 May 2008, 23:09
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 45
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anchor points?
Hi, thankfully managed to secure fore and aft mooring points for my little 3.8m Zodiac Futura SIB whilst on holiday.
At the bow I'm going to use a short painter line spliced to D-Ring, a caribina with nut attatched to warp line by some sort of rolling knot, and i'll also tie the end of the warp somewhere else as a precaution.
What about attatching the second mooring line to the rear of the boat - any suggestions where it should go?
Thanks very much!
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24 May 2008, 23:28
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,650
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Couple of options. On the Zodiac - there should be an alloy engine mounting plate with a loop-section for securing a steel or rope lanyard to the engine. I've tied a rope to this in the past.
You could also use the towing eyes on the transom (by rigging something up). For obvious reasons - don't be temped to tie-off on the moulded grab handles.
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24 May 2008, 23:30
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 45
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and also looking into knot tying. Would a bowline on a bight be a suitable method of adding a loop to a point in my warp line, which could then be fixed to a caribina on my painter line at correctl length?
I presume if one end of the warp is anchored, and the other end is attatched to the boat any loop will be secure as both ends are fixed. What do other people use in this situation?
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25 May 2008, 06:54
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fleet
Boat name: Hudson
Make: Ribeye Sport
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha 150
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewUkR6
and also looking into knot tying. Would a bowline on a bight be a suitable method of adding a loop to a point in my warp line, which could then be fixed to a caribina on my painter line at correctl length?
I presume if one end of the warp is anchored, and the other end is attatched to the boat any loop will be secure as both ends are fixed. What do other people use in this situation?
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If I understand you right, you have a painter line attached to the bow D ring and are then proposing using a second, separate, 'mooring' warp attached to this painter. We just use the painter directly for the bow mooring line. Why not keep it simple?
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25 May 2008, 10:15
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#5
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardB
If I understand you right, you have a painter line attached to the bow D ring and are then proposing using a second, separate, 'mooring' warp attached to this painter. We just use the painter directly for the bow mooring line. Why not keep it simple?
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Probably the same reason I do the same-it's a pain having a long warp in the boat when tying to a pontoon,and if the painter goes in when you're moving it's short enough it won't reach the prop.
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25 May 2008, 22:03
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#6
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Probably the same reason I do the same-it's a pain having a long warp in the boat when tying to a pontoon,and if the painter goes in when you're moving it's short enough it won't reach the prop.
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Yup, my painter is the same - deliberately a couple of feet too short to risk ending up stuck in the middle of nowhere with the outboard firmly tied to the sharp end of the boat
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25 May 2008, 23:59
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
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one really strong way for anchoring but is also better if towing a sib and that is make a bridle running from 2 fixed pioints each side of the engine on the transom , better if you have ski eyes fitted ,and then run it down under the boat and through the d ring at the front ,the anchor line can then be tied off to the loop end . to make it a bit more permanent cable tie the bridle to the d ring to stop losing the end . there is hardly any strain on the d ring as most of the strain is taken on the transom. also regards long painters why not make that loop chain knot which shortens the line until you want it long then undo the end and pull it all out. RNLI d class inflatables do the same with there painters .
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26 May 2008, 07:31
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Spare Rib
Make: Zodiac/Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 90hp Yamaha
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewUkR6
Hi, thankfully managed to secure fore and aft mooring points for my little 3.8m Zodiac Futura SIB whilst on holiday.
At the bow I'm going to use a short painter line spliced to D-Ring, a caribina with nut attatched to warp line by some sort of rolling knot, and i'll also tie the end of the warp somewhere else as a precaution.
What about attatching the second mooring line to the rear of the boat - any suggestions where it should go?
Thanks very much!
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What's the carabina for (is that a carbine hook)?
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Tim Spring
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26 May 2008, 12:18
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 45
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thanks for suggestions. I'll use the ski eyes on the back. By caribina yes i mean carbine hook with a screwnut to lock it off...
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26 May 2008, 15:18
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#10
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Member
Country: Canada
Town: British Columbia
Make: Gemini
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp 2 str
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,151
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Do not run a primary anchor line directly off the transom!
If a large wave comes up suddenly it will come straight over the transom and swamp the boat (with a conventional boat this would be a disastrous). Always makes sure that any anchor line set up will orient will orient the bow to point towards the anchor.
What M Chappelow suggested (or some variation of it) is fine.
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