Anchor Warp

Andy Moore · 01 June 2006, 10:57

What do you tie your anchor warp on to? We really only have the moulded cleats-cum-handles on the tubes (not ideal) and the U-bolt on the bow (a good solution but too low down).

I was thinking of putting a ring a couple of feet up the painter from the U-bolt. The anchor warp couple then be made off on to this and the load taken by the U-bolt.

Any ideas appreciated.

slimtim · 01 June 2006, 11:04

sounds like a plan. Then have the rest of the painter as a "lazy line" which enables you to pull the anchor up without leaning right over the bow.

Andy Moore · 01 June 2006, 11:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimtim

sounds like a plan. Then have the rest of the painter as a "lazy line" which enables you to pull the anchor up without leaning right over the bow.

Yes. Just need a knot that will stop the ring sliding!

Jelly · 01 June 2006, 11:06

Andy
That is exactly what I have don on my Redbay, as I can't reach the front D ring from being in the boat.
I do have a internal D ring but the line would then run over the tube .
Only problem with the ring in the painter is getting the length right so you can reach it but it also still fits in the guide over the tube. They also have a habit of clinking if not kept tight.

I also worked in some shock cord into the lay of the painter as you would a splice. This shortens the line but does give some shock load reduction, wether its as effective as hanging an angel on the anchor line etc I'm not sure, but it kept me out of trouble for an evening!
Rgds
James

As for knots the rolling hitch is the correct name or a set of chinese fingers. (4 or more lengths of small cord all tied together with a loop in the middle. you then take each pair and working from one side to the other ot the anchor line keep crossing it and tie off furtther down the line. this adds lots of friction and you can take the load off the anchor line . also good for removing riding turns on winches etc.

Simon B · 01 June 2006, 17:13

On our club boat we have a black 14mm line spliced onto the bow D ring, this then has a 10mm white line spliced on about 1.5 metres from the bow D ring. The white line is kept to hand in the boat and can be used to recover the larger rope when tied up say to a bouy.

Both are of a length such that if it all went overboard it wouldnt foul the prop. And the junction between the white and black looks rather smart as a splice!

Jelly, your shockcord idea sounds a cracker - I will try this out as an experiment, we nearly had our frame damaged due to riding a chop whilst tied up.

Jelly · 02 June 2006, 10:24

Simon
It was in PBO a while ago, I think I used 6mm diameter shock cord in to either 12 or 14 mm 3 strand nylon. Then just worked 3 lengths in over and under as you would a splice.
I'm moored where you get surge from the trip & ferry boats, I hope it helps!
Jelly

Simon B · 02 June 2006, 11:53

Will definately be giving this a go, wonder if it has a limit interms of tensile strength as we sometimes tow by the painter?

Alex Brown · 02 June 2006, 12:49

I normally bung a bowline in the end of the painter (which is thicker rope than the anchor line), and then tie a bowline from the anchor rope into the painter bowline at the required length. You can then let the painter take the main strain to the bow eye, and it leaves you with the loose end of the anchor line that you can easily make fast to the rubber cleat cos it's not putting any strain on whatsoever - you then use this line to haul the anchor back up afterwards..... very simple and quick to do

-Alex

ashbypower · 02 June 2006, 12:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex Brown

I normally bung a bowline in the end of the painter (which is thicker rope than the anchor line), and then tie a bowline from the anchor rope into the painter bowline at the required length. You can then let the painter take the main strain to the bow eye, and it leaves you with the loose end of the anchor line that you can easily make fast to the rubber cleat cos it's not putting any strain on whatsoever - you then use this line to haul the anchor back up afterwards..... very simple and quick to do

-Alex

Yep that how we do it and advise students in that method. Also prvents rub on the tubes.

Andy Moore · 02 June 2006, 12:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex Brown

I normally bung a bowline in the end of the painter (which is thicker rope than the anchor line), and then tie a bowline from the anchor rope into the painter bowline at the required length. You can then let the painter take the main strain to the bow eye, and it leaves you with the loose end of the anchor line that you can easily make fast to the rubber cleat cos it's not putting any strain on whatsoever - you then use this line to haul the anchor back up afterwards..... very simple and quick to do

Sounds like a good method.

Jelly · 02 June 2006, 13:00

Ian
I guess not much as you are not cutting the rope or knoting it. Even if you are towing I doubt you are near the breaking strain of the rope assuming its 12-14 mm you are using.
Another tip is to whip the rope before and after the cord it spliced in and then again over the ends that are sticking out. I did this then wrapped the ends in tape, to finish this off put a loop of string or cable tie in line with the rope and use this to pull / tuck the end of the tape back unter the last few turns of the tape as you would a plain whipping.
Rgds
James

Limey Linda · 02 June 2006, 17:41

The practice of using an additional line to haul in an anchor is very old one.
Before the days of chain capstans the anchor chain was hauled in with a rope line with a hook spliced on the end. This was hooked to the chain and hauled in for the distance between the capstan and the bow. It was then unhooked and run forward quickly and rehooked to the chain for the next pull. This line was called a "nip" and had to be handled by a very nimble crew member and so boy seamen where used. I was also very dangerous. These boy seamen became known as "nippers" hence the common term for young boys. The correct term for a chain hook, even today, is a nipping hook.
Just another boring piece of history. Regards. T.

Paul Glatzel · 02 June 2006, 19:42

A link to a very old thread showing a photo of how one of our RIBs is set up. Totally agree with tying the painter to the anchor line, i tend to suggest a double sheet bend at the relevant point but any method that works well is fine.

http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread....9&page=2&pp=10

Paul

Andy_Rs600 · 02 June 2006, 20:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Glatzel

, i tend to suggest a double sheet bend at the relevant point

Agree with paul over the knot. Double sheet bend is more resistant to shock loading than a bowline. Also, don't put the tail of the anchor line onto a rubber cleat, put it onto your internal d-ring or deck cleat. That way if the knot parts at least you keep the boat, at the risk of some tube damamge.

Alex Brown · 04 June 2006, 16:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy_Rs600

put it onto your internal d-ring or deck cleat.

Nice if you have such things

- back of the seat in my case.

Enclosed is pic of my setup from yesterday.

-Alex