Originally posted by Pete7
not 20 feet up on the side of the wharf it won't.
You don't Understand it's going back in the water soon! The engine is well sorted so all we need now is a couple more money burning ceremonies and we will be a float.
The Antifoul was XM
Also re Sue Grabbit and Fleece they are not that Kosher, I instructed them to sue The Garfish over his Boat Mad comments re Britt's business. Anyway they came back saying that they could't do it as it would be a conflict of interests. I reckon they weren't interested in a conflict more like. You'd have an easier time on a plane with Vinnie Jones than tangling with the Gobfish !
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Had the same query with my stern drive so used Internationals anitfoul "Trilux" for stern drives, it will withstand 3 months drying out if I need to. Don't use white it shows every mark, black for me next time.
Great news that she is going back in, have you glassed in the fuel tank ?
Love to see Garfish doing community service after a punch up in mid air with someone who upset him,
Copper based antifouling will react with an aluminium jet drive if applied directly to it. So definately don't use it on your jet.
You can get copper feee antifouling for this - Volvo grey would probably look good - at a price!
The antifouling on the hull should be OK as long as it is electrically isolated from the jet and associated gubbins.
The usual practice (with sterndrives) is to leave a 2" gap around the transom shield. This would also apply to your jet intake if this is separate and in the bottom of the boat.
Also make sure your anodes are up to scratch and all parts of the jet that should be electrically bonded together are properly bonded.
My preferred method of preventing fouling and corrosion is to keep the boat out of the water - but I guess that this is not practical with your big one.
War Shot
