aqua seal

[stingray]

where can i get aqua seal apart from USA (to fix small hole where tubes meet transom )

[two stroke mick]

Any scuba diving web site should carry what you are looking for

[xs 400]

ebay

McNett Aquaseal and Cotol 240 Neoprene Repair Combo Pack for Scuba Divers | eBay

[stingray]

USA postage is more than item with 2 week del

[willk]

You're looking for this:

Linky

[Nick Hearne]

I have used stormsure for tube repairs worked for me
stormsure | eBay
Or
aquasure | eBay ?

[jyasaki]

Aqua Seal is a polyurethane adhesive/sealant. It's got a lot of similar analogs: Shoe Goo and variants are very similar, 3M 5200 is sort of similar, and some varieties of Sika are pretty close.

Problem with Aqua Seal is the cure time; alone, it has a 24 hr cure, and it has the tendency to run (very slowly) during this time. That means you look at it, and the application looks fine for the few minutes you watch it, then you come back in 24 hrs to find it pooled and cured at the low spot.

Adding Cotol to the Aquaseal reduces cure time to about an hour or less, but doesn't solve the runniness.

If you're patching a gap, I'd be looking more towards a caulk rather than AquaSeal.

jky

[cgoing]

Aqua seal is a much better sealant for use on inflatables versus caulk or 5200. It adheres really well if the surface is cleaned properly. I keep a tube onboard with the Cotol kicker to speed up the drying time. It also works great as a temporary fix on drysuit seals. It is however harder to find.

[boilermaker1]

Any fishing tackle store will stock it, as it is used for repairing waders.
I have used it to repair pin hole leaks in my inflatable and it works great

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by cgoing

Aqua seal is a much better sealant for use on inflatables versus caulk or 5200.

Depends on what you're sealing. OP sounded like he was trying to plug a water leak between hull and tube. Caulk (a good marine polysulfide caulk, like LifeCaulk) would be a better choice for that than AquaSeal. Especially if it's a vertical application, as you'd have trouble keeping the adhesive from running off the repair area.

I keep a tube onboard with the Cotol kicker to speed up the drying time. It also works great as a temporary fix on drysuit seals.

Which Cotol version are you using? I find the plastic-filler-laden version (the one sold in the blister pack with a tube of AS) to be useless. The non-filled stuff works great but is very hard to find (usually have to buy 4 oz cans, though I prefer the 16 oz cans if I can find it.) Interestingly, McNett doesn't distinguish between the two on their website (or didn't when I was exploring the differences); had to call them to find the difference.

Drysuit seals: I usually keep a spare wrist seal and neck seal vacuum packed with a bit of sandpaper, some solvent as a degreaser (MEK, though acetone would do fine), and a tube of solvent-based contact cement. That takes care of a ripped seal (trim off old seal, glue to the remainder of the old seal.) It's a temporary fix, but a friend of mine is still diving his repair after 3 years (I can't get new seals to last that long - don't know hoe he does...)

For pinholes (or slightly larger), the pre-glued bicycle patches work well if you degrease or sand clean the area first. Tegaderm bandages work as well, but can be a b*tch to put on smoothly.

jky