22.02.2008
I, according to received instruction of navigation, have to all the time listen on channel 16. First station, which calls me is Alcamar Snipe. I give my speed, course, position. They ask yet about my "Echo Tango Alpha", to Puerto Toro. I defined this on two hours. They make sure yet, if I remember that in Puerto Toro I have to stop and wait on chilean navy ship ALACALUFE. I confirm. First settlements concerning my meeting wth Chilean ship were that we were to meet near Cape Guanaco near entrance from Paso Goree on Bahia Nassau but because I would have there to wait on ship, I was recommended to enter into Puerto Toro. Ship has to enter to Puerto Toro about 04.30 AM.
I came Puerto Toro just before dusk. I approach to fishing pier, where a fishing boat was moored. Pier is in repair and steel parts stick out, and I can rip my boat on that. So I approach to fishing boat and I ask if can come alongside. Fishermen accept instantly. I make my boat fast and instantly I went to small blue building on hill. I pass on my documents to Armada.Sailor informed Puerto Williams that I'm already in Puerto Toro. Reply is that I'm to be on stand - by.
I go down to harbour, I change my Musto dry-suit on casual clothes and with last rays of light I'm taking pictures of Puerto Toro. If I will get at night information from ALACALUFE, then I will nothave later opportunity to make any sight-seeing tours! Near pier lies dilapidated board informing, that Puerto Toro is the southernmost settlement on the world. There is church, was once a shop and are small hoses of fishermens.
I come back on my RIB. Crossing through fishing boat on my boat one of fishermen calls me: "Amigo! Cafe?". "Si!" I answer. We all are now pressed in tiny kitchen. Kettle sets up. On table lies coffee and sugar and a couple of old mugs. After moment whole crew, that is three fishermen, and me drink aromatic coffe. Fishermen look at festival Vina at television from satellite receiver. They inform me, that this the most important festival in South America. I watch TV with them. In pauses for commercials I talk about my peregrinations. In one moment radio speaks. The weather forecast for a night. They announce the change of direction of wind. Fishermen says that it will be "mucho viento" with unfavourable direction and we have to transfer in different place, because staying near pier is dangerous. I come back on ONYX. I start engine and I move away from the fishing boat which after moment move from the pier. I decide to go with fishing boat, because fishermen will know where is safe place to stay on na anchor. We move half a mile further, and get cover behind penninsula. Fishermen throw anchor. My depthfinder shows, that depth is about 30 metres here. Bad news! My anchor rope, together with chain is in total 80 metres, and on such depth and bad weather coming I would need two times more. Solution of problem comes in the form of the fisherman, which calling "Amigo!" shows, that I can stay behind of fishing boat. I approach nearer, I pass mooring. I put out engine and I check, if everything is made fast. "Amigo! Comer?" I - hear. "Con gusto!" I - answer and I climb on deck of fishing boat. Big bowl full of king crab is already waiting for me! In restaurant in Ushuaia tiny portion of "centoia" costs 25 dollars! It turns out, that whole bowl is for me!
After midnight I come back to ONYX. I was dreaming happily when I hear call: "ONYX! ONYX! This is chilean navy! ONYX! ONYX!"
I overslept! I dig out from bed on front of boat and I grab the receiver of radio "ALACALUFE! ALACALUFE! This is boat ONYX. ONYX!" I - call. "ONYX! ONYX! The You can not go to Horn! Bad weather! Can not go! Repeat! ONYX! ONYX! You have to come back to Puerto Willaims! ONYX ONYX! You can't go to HORN! Wind over 50 knots! Cambio!"
"ALACALUFE! ALACALUFE! I will stay in Puerto Toro! Repeat! I will stay in Puerto Toro! Over!" I - answer. Moment of silence and the radio speaks with the Chilean officer's voice: "ONYX! ONYX! You can stay in Puerto Toro! You can stay in Puerto Toro! You have to wait for 24 or 48 hours! Cambio!"
"Affirmative! I will stay in Puerto Toro. Thank You and out!" I finish. Now I look on my watch. There is 02.40. I did not oversleep! The ship came before time. Navigation lights of the ship pass away slowly in darkness.
So I have to wait... Break down of weather. I'm going back to the front of ONYX and after a few minutes I'm asleep...
PS. I'm sorry, that my English might be rough... I do my best! I'm working on next part of text. Whole story, much better thanks to help of Andre, will be soon in "RIB INTERNATIONAL"