Attaching Anchor to RIB

[VTGuy]

Hello,

Brand new to boating and brand new to this forum. I’ve been searching everywhere to find some information on WHERE the best place is to attach an anchor to my Zodiac Bayrunner 500 (15.5 feet). It’s got some kind of cleat (looks like a saddle horn) up front with a bow line attached to it already. I’m not sure if I should just keep the anchor line attached there full time, or tie it to the existing line when I need it. I just bought a 8lb danforth with plenty of line and chain. I plan to anchor it in lakes and rivers when people are swimming.

Any advice on where to attach it would be much appreciated!

[Ribtecer]

Google "the bitter end"

I have the end of the line permanently tied off to a firm location within my anchor locker, this is to prevent some well meaning person on board chucking it over in an emergency only to find out it isn't attached at all.

When I set it if I want to anchor I have a channel over the bow of the Rib that I put the line into and tie it off at the right lengh for the depth, normally 3 x the depth.

I think most carry the boats length in chain and the rest in rope.

[VTGuy]

Thanks! I am familiar with “the bitter end”. My main concern is that I don’t have anywhere to tie off the end of my anchor line within the storage locker up front.

I am thinking I’ll just keep the line secured to the cleat on the bow and then store the anchor and line in the storage locker. There’s a gap in the storage locker that looks like it’s intended to allow line to run out. Not sure why there’s no where to tie anything off.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by VTGuy

Thanks! I am familiar with “the bitter end”. My main concern is that I don’t have anywhere to tie off the end of my anchor line within the storage locker up front.

I am thinking I’ll just keep the line secured to the cleat on the bow and then store the anchor and line in the storage locker. There’s a gap in the storage locker that looks like it’s intended to allow line to run out. Not sure why there’s no where to tie anything off.

Could you fit a U bolt on the top of the anchor locker to tie off? That’s what I have.

[VTGuy]

That could work. Do you have your u-bolt mounted inside the cavity of the locker or to the lid of the locker? I would worry about having anything tied off to my lid, as it’s a little flimsy...

[Nasher]

Not the best images, but I have a Sampson post in the Bow of the boat just forward of the Anchor locker. The Bitter end is attached inside the locker.

Once the Anchor is set with whatever length of Rope is required after the chain, I just put a few overlocking turns around the post and lay the rope in the channel over the bow.

If leaving the boat for longer I also tie a loop around the fixing in the locker as a backup so the whole length of rope can't pay out if it slips off the Sampson post somehow.

Nasher.

[charliee]

I would add a U bolt in the locker, to something strong - you may need to use a backing plate - forget the lid, if things no wrong your lid will go overboard.
i never leave my rib at anchor with the rode coming back over the tubes. Once I'm happy the anchor is set and I have the right amount of gear over board I tie an alpine butterfly knot into the anchor rode and clip my painter to the rode, therefore all strain is taken by bow eye. I attach the anchor rode (now slack) to the bow cleat and the bitter end is attached to a u bolt in the anchor locker.
This method avoids the chances of chaffing on the tubes.

[Last Tango]

If the ends of the bow u-bolt is in the locker and long enough you could fit an eye nut to it and use a caribiner hook onto that. (easy to unclip if you have to extent your anchor rope).

That's how mines is set up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-M8-M10...f32b2cd3dddfab

[Ribtecer]

Originally Posted by charliee

I would add a U bolt in the locker, to something strong - you may need to use a backing plate - forget the lid, if things no wrong your lid will go overboard.
i never leave my rib at anchor with the rode coming back over the tubes. Once I'm happy the anchor is set and I have the right amount of gear over board I tie an alpine butterfly knot into the anchor rode and clip my painter to the rode, therefore all strain is taken by bow eye. I attach the anchor rode (now slack) to the bow cleat and the bitter end is attached to a u bolt in the anchor locker.
This method avoids the chances of chaffing on the tubes.

Yes indeed you are quite right with your belt and braces approach.

However my Rib lives in a shed in my garden and generally only goes out on nice-ish days, if I anchor it I am normally about 50 foot away on a beach or in it eating my lunch, and as I recently had the channel fitted from my anchor locker over the bow right down to the GRP, I get no tube chaff.

If I were to leave it for longer periods or anchor in heavy weather I would do as you describe and use the bow line to take the strain. Although, unless in an emergency, I can't see me anchoring in heavy weather.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Could you fit a U bolt on the top of the anchor locker to tie off? That’s what I have.

Below is a picture of mine, it’s through the fibreglass top of the anchor locker. I guess in theory if you don’t have space you could fit it to the locker door itself but as you say a tad flimsy, perhaps with some reinforcement? Perhaps you could upload a photo of the area on here so we can see what you might have room for - therefore what best to do?

Mine is below

[treerat]

Always use my painter to attach the anchor line to the boat, this is the primary attachment, via the bow eye.

By tying an alpine butterfly in the anchor line I can attach the painter caribiner at the depth required.

Rest of line is the locked off on the sampson post in the bow. This keeps any presure off tubes and on a solid attachement.

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by treerat

Always use my painter to attach the anchor line to the boat, this is the primary attachment, via the bow eye.

By tying an alpine butterfly in the anchor line I can attach the painter caribiner at the depth required.

Rest of line is the locked off on the sampson post in the bow. This keeps any presure off tubes and on a solid attachement.

Tying off to the painter is the best option, it saves ropes running over tubes and also allows the bow to rise easier over any rollers as its tied off nice and low. Tying over the tubes pulls the bow down and makes it easier for the boat to get swamped

[RickW]

For those carabinering the painter / bow line to the anchor line using a alpine knot in the anchor rode I guess the length of the painter to the anchor line pays out under tension ? Trying to imagine how it works

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by RickW

For those carabinering the painter / bow line to the anchor line using a alpine knot in the anchor rode I guess the length of the painter to the anchor line pays out under tension ? Trying to imagine how it works

It works well (for me), drop the anchor & set it, put a alpine/butterfly/artillery loop in the rode & clip the painter into it. Let the painter go, assuming it’s attached to the bow eye, voila. The weight is now on the bow eye, the loose end of the anchor rode is still in the anchor locker, no weight on the tubes.

[RickW]

Better get a clip for the loose end of my painter

[Uh Oh]

Originally Posted by charliee

I would add a U bolt in the locker, to something strong - you may need to use a backing plate - forget the lid, if things no wrong your lid will go overboard.
i never leave my rib at anchor with the rode coming back over the tubes. Once I'm happy the anchor is set and I have the right amount of gear over board I tie an alpine butterfly knot into the anchor rode and clip my painter to the rode, therefore all strain is taken by bow eye. I attach the anchor rode (now slack) to the bow cleat and the bitter end is attached to a u bolt in the anchor locker.
This method avoids the chances of chaffing on the tubes.

I've been thinking long and hard about how to accomplish this. Your solution addresses all my concerns and is simple enough. Well thought out. Thank you.

[Uh Oh]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

It works well (for me), drop the anchor & set it, put a alpine/butterfly/artillery loop in the rode & clip the painter into it. Let the painter go, assuming it’s attached to the bow eye, voila. The weight is now on the bow eye, the loose end of the anchor rode is still in the anchor locker, no weight on the tubes.

Sound.

[Uh Oh]

Originally Posted by RickW

Better get a clip for the loose end of my painter

What sort of clip though? Mine has just a loose end. I guess I will have to splice a loop into the end to take the clip.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Uh Oh

What sort of clip though? Mine has just a loose end. I guess I will have to splice a loop into the end to take the clip.

I use something similar to this

https://www.proboat.co.uk/item/1/19/...-Snap-Shackles

[Uh Oh]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

I use something similar to this

https://www.proboat.co.uk/item/1/19/...-Snap-Shackles

Links not working mate. I should be able to find it though. Thank you

Forget that. It is working. Much appreciated.