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Old 30 June 2017, 13:51   #41
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can this stuff be tooled out of interest in your application say you put in place then it squeezes out past the transom each side could it then be cut with a saw and sanded to give a reasonable finish?
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Old 30 June 2017, 16:56   #42
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Check out YouTube, search "polymorph granules", amazing stuff!
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Old 30 June 2017, 17:58   #43
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Check out YouTube, search "polymorph granules", amazing stuff!
Wow endless applications thanks for sharing
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Old 01 July 2017, 01:02   #44
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Quote:
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basically the fins are to create lift to get over the bow wave when as fenlander says a poor set up of too heavy a load, drag is created by the lift for obvious reasons.
you say you get water in the keel is it a flooding hull then?,
if not you will have a problem somewhere that water underway will move to the stern when you power up making it dig in, it will then slosh about causing all kinds of stability/ trim problems because it cannot empty that added weight will slow you down too.
so you're getting around 20 knots out of her, in comparison my SIB running a 10 1/4 x 12 on a 25 4 stroke is achieving 22 knots at 5250 rpm. your two stroke with the rib hull should be at least 2 knots faster IMO.
my rig with me in it about 300 kg [43 litres of fuel] for info.
i would buy a tiny tach equivalent about £20 to start try it with the fin & without and go from there.
just to add when you filled the boat with water did you have the keel bung out to see if it seeps through the deck


Theres a lot to take in with this reply! I've got a few things to work on.
One point of interest, your prop is bigger dia and higher pitch than mine, I wonder if mine would take that......
Will try filling it with the deck bung in and the hull bung out as you say.
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Old 01 July 2017, 11:13   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinG View Post
Theres a lot to take in with this reply! I've got a few things to work on.
One point of interest, your prop is bigger dia and higher pitch than mine, I wonder if mine would take that......
Will try filling it with the deck bung in and the hull bung out as you say.
Before you do any prop change get the water sorted and find out your RPM at WOT and take it from there plenty of help on here with that.
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Old 01 July 2017, 12:55   #46
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Before you do any prop change get the water sorted and find out your RPM at WOT and take it from there plenty of help on here with that.


Thank you
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Old 01 July 2017, 20:15   #47
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https://www.propeller-shop.eu/propeller-info/

Re propping this explains choosing a prop so you will need to know the optimum RPM range of your engine mine is 5000-6000 RPM for example.
Then your current WOT RPM.
If you look on my new boat thread you can see my two props performances and where there's not much difference between the two in top speed but the larger pitch brings my RPM down to below mid optimum revs for crusing
Hope that helps when you get sorted cheers
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Old 01 July 2017, 22:22   #48
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Are they true Doel-fins or Attwood hydrofoils ?

The Attwood Hyrofoils have small wings on the outer edges that can produce pretty big rooster trails if the engine height is not spot on. anything on the transom that gives rooster trails will give you an issue.

Doel-fins suit some boats and not others ......... yes, they get you up on the plane quicker but can cause handing issues. Common issues are....... 1. with a following sea the fins make the stern lift more than it should and the boat feels like it wants to broach. The answer is to speed up, but this is not always possible............ 2. The fins can make the stern 'dig-in' when turning at even moderate speeds which is almost like severe over-steer on a car.......... 3. When running astern (reverse) fins can (and have) caused the stern to be pulled low into the water, low enough to take water over the transom


I had them on my Shetland 570 a few years ago and they worked well. They seem to suit heavier boats much better. I have driven other boats with them on and felt they were quite dangerous and the steering / throttle needed a very light touch to stay out of trouble !
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Old 01 July 2017, 22:45   #49
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Thank you to all who have replied! There is so much to take in and consider now :-)
I am not in Anglesey with the rib for a week or so now. As soon as I get there I will start putting your suggestions into action.
And obviously report back :-)
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Old 21 July 2017, 18:32   #50
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I'm not sure if this thread will refresh and be visible to anyone.....
But, thanks for all the input.
Removing the "wings" from my outboard did the trick. The rib is 2-3 mph faster, steers lighter and is more responsive, and the water ingress is massively reduced. So the wings were throwing water high up the transom causing the problem, thanks again.
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Old 21 July 2017, 18:36   #51
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Great result... and cheap!

I still have a pair of foils... hanging in the garage... best place for them in 90% of cases.
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Old 21 July 2017, 18:41   #52
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Avon Rover 3.4 taking in water.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
Great result... and cheap!

I still have a pair of foils... hanging in the garage... best place for them in 90% of cases.


Cheapest fix ever! Anyone want a pair of useless ornaments? :-)

And obviously, my fuel consumption will be down too!
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Old 21 July 2017, 21:47   #53
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Weird that the outboard maker knew what they were doing.....great result
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Old 24 July 2017, 22:07   #54
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A misses and a bailer always works !!
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Old 24 July 2017, 22:12   #55
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A misses and a bailer always works !!


Mrs gets seasick! My rib is a one man fishing machine, I spend whole days out there drowning worms.......It's a lot more relaxing when theres not six inches of water to think about :-)
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Old 25 July 2017, 11:42   #56
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just to add to this re water coming in my boat doesn't suffer any coming in so over the weekend i was surprised to see about a cup full coming over the transom in about 10 seconds and the whole of the tube cone wet through on stopping to investigate i found a piece of paper about the size of a biscuit bar wrapper wrapped around the transducer causing the problem so small with a big effect.
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