Avon Searider Fiberglass Hull Repair Help

Ribnet196 · 13 September 2020, 10:37

Hi,

I just bought an Avon Searider SR4M deluxe rib. After a sea trial I found some holes in the base of the fiberglass hull, not sure if it was a bad repair that failed or I didn't see them!!

Looking to get this repaired soon as possible, although as it is a flooding hull I presume it can still be used as it is?

Can anybody give me some advice on what to fix it with, materials, tools, tips,
write-ups, videos, etc?

Finally I would like to find out what year this is if anyone knows from the attached photo?

Any advice or help appreciated.

Thanks,
Kenyon

P.S. I'm thinking this is this the type of repair I want to attempt?

v=4XoeGV2KhGc"]

Poly · 13 September 2020, 11:16

Kenyon, the youtube video does look like the sort of repair you want. You can't get access to the inside of the hull through the drain on the transom can you? It would probably be easier (more comfortable) if you can turn the hull upside down. You've got grind away all the bad/loose/wet material before you start, and its on a shaped part of the hull so will be a PITA. The rest of the hull looks pretty badly scratched etc - I'm wondering what the tubes, transom and deck are like...

I have to say, although I've fixed some sailing dinghies with fairly bad collision damage that looks bad enough I'd be having serious doubts about whether you'd be better cutting your losses and trying to find a sound hull.

Ribnet196 · 13 September 2020, 11:43

Thanks for the reply, I'll keep it in mind.

No, it looks like the worst of the damage is the front (1 foot) section although I still haven't given it a thorough look over and there maybe more damage along the flat keel line. The transom and deck seem solid and the tubes hold air, although I'm no expert and it is an old boat...

It would be a shame not to get the use out of it but equally I don't want pour good money after bad and spend months trying to get a good repair...

ShinyShoe · 13 September 2020, 14:11

That's possibly not the repair you want to cut your fibre glass repair teeth on!

If you could get access into the void it would be easier... I could feel a waterproof deck hatch appearing....

Its one of those jobs that to do really well - you will remove a lot of fibreglass that you previously thought was good.

Good news - materials costs for the repair will be relatively low (<£200)

Bad news - a fair few man hours, a learning curve, swearing.

Poly · 13 September 2020, 14:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShinyShoe

If you could get access into the void it would be easier... I could feel a waterproof deck hatch appearing....

I’m not sure cutting even a waterproof deck hatch into a flooding hull is a great idea.

Ribnet196 · 13 September 2020, 15:11

Thanks, no I wasn't planning on it being my first attempt at fireglass repair, still a useful skill. https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/lol.gif

I agree the selller mentioned he had run aground on a mud bank but it was either not damaged or was repaired, should have been the red flag.

I suspect there might be a lot more of the keel requiring repair, meaning engine off and working on the front drive...

There is a small hatch (didn't leak) under the front seats which I think is/was used for a Sowester super 240 depth alarm but I'm not sure that is big enough to be useful (6" diameter) or even if it is cut through the waterproof deck of the flooding hull! If I decide to go ahead with the repairs I'll open it up and see.

Another option could be just to run it as it is to recoup some of the cost rather than selling it on either as a project or parts...

Ribnet196 · 13 September 2020, 17:42

Not sure it is captured in the photos very well but inside the flooding hull, apart from a few large pebbles and I'm guessing the transducer gubbins for the old depth sounder, is a fibreglass tunnel about an inch high and three inches wide running straight down the middle of the keel. The damage to the outside of the hull does not seem to have gone through this part of the hull so a repair from the outside only might not be too bad and possibly the only way to make the repair anyway?

Someone who may have had the deck out of an early Searider might know more about their construction and be able to comment?

Thanks for the input so far...

Livid · 13 September 2020, 22:31

You could hack a hole in the deck then block off the flooding hull but it should be alright regardless if you use a decent hatch, I'm highly incompetent and would patch from the inside and then fill the outside to smooth it. On an old searider the transom and deck are the things that go, make sure the deck has zero flex and the transom is solid all the way through or you could find your engine vacating the boat haha. if you're feeling adventurous wrap fiberglass over the top of the transom as that's how the water gets in and rots it to bits

Poly · 13 September 2020, 22:46

There’s probably a refurb including a new deck with pics somewhere on this site.

I don’t think it would be wise to continue using it in its current state - it’s going to slow the boat down, must have weakened the hull. If it’s open to the flooding void you’ll never get it to drain and will burn loads of fuel; if it’s not open to the void, then presumably water is getting to fibreglass that doesnt have gelcoat on it. And it will probably catch the rollers on your trailer etc.

ShinyShoe · 13 September 2020, 23:20

That tunnel - is the keel actually structural - i.e. should it be foam or frame in there or is it normally a hollow 'tube' that gives structure?

Navajoturquoise · 14 September 2020, 20:49

From what I can find on the web, your RIB was manufactured by Z Marine North America LLC, South Carolina. This company was previously Zodiac of North America Inc and Avon Marine Inc.
Serial number is 15723 and year of manufacture is 1977.

I wonder if you can post a photo of the Avon as a whole rather than just the area to be repaired. Having said that, given the damage seen on the hull, I think that the previous owner did a lot more than run aground a mud bank. The pebbles inside tell another story.

The hull of an Avon Searider on the bottom is pretty thick. Almost a half an inch so it can take a lot of pounding before it is struturally damaged. Yours seems pretty beat up but it is still repairable provided you do it well.

If the damaged area goes through the hull, you shoud very thoroughly clean the inside of the hull and scrape and sand away all flaky material. The interior should be made to dry completely for the resin to properly adhere. Use a ventilator at high speed and leave it running for at least 24 hours. A waterproof deck plate would allow to facilitate repairs and inspect the hull from the inside. That is a choice that you have to make. I have also looked at the video and it is good except when the author places the patch on the area to be repaired and then brushes resin on top of the patches. Before that is done, resin MUST be applied on the area to be repaired and only then should the patches be set on top and more resin applied. If this procedure is not followed the area to be repaired will drain resin from the patch through capillary action and the patch will not adhere as well as it should. Good luck with your repair.

gtflash · 23 September 2020, 18:59

I really can’t work out what I am looking at in the pictures. Can you take a wider angle picture with boat.

Boat works today is a great Youtuber full of advice, but it’s difficult to say if your repair is one sided or both. One thing to consider with collision damage, is the glass behind can look sound, but in reality the shock causes some delamination. Some might say this needs cutting out and all replacing but some might say it can be reinforced.

I looked at a windy last year with similar damage and decided There were too many blind repairs to be comfortable.

Ribnet196 · 24 September 2020, 12:52

Thanks for the comments.

It is difficult to get photos on the trailer but attached screenshot from the YouTube video shows the approximate area where the hull is damaged. Where he is adding fibreglass is roughly where my damage is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkOQBPLlG0o

beamishken · 24 September 2020, 16:50

Thats fairly standard searider damage tbh, its right where it gets left sat on a beach & just wears through, a repair from inside & out is the best option but if you dont want to cut the floor up then a repair like the video will work fine
Its not like your gonna sink if it gives up cos its a flooding hull anyway. Worst case is it rips off and you have to go home early