Ballistic 7.8 refurb

[gohelm]

Look like a(pandoras?) box of suprises you got there, good luck with that. Basics look rather ok though. Looking forward to further updates!!!!!!

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by gohelm

Look like a(pandoras?) box of suprises you got there, good luck with that. Basics look rather ok though. Looking forward to further updates!!!!!!

It's getting a bit expensive now, yes...

I've lost track of the cost now.

[Ian M]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

It's getting a bit expensive now, yes...

I've lost track of the cost now.

I found it best to wait a couple of years before totaling up the cost
Still found it a bit of a shocker

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by Ian M

I found it best to wait a couple of years before totaling up the cost
Still found it a bit of a shocker

To be fair though, your boat looks like it was bloody expensive

[Ian M]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

To be fair though, your boat looks like it was bloody expensive

Cheers, I think
Fair bit more that I still want to do

[nugent]

Originally Posted by matt h

Nos Love the project!! looks great. it will all be worth it mate when you pull ya finger out and get on with it!!

Exactly that

looking good Sir its the finer bits that take the time trust me i knowm keep up the good work summer is only 12 mths away

[nugent]

any scratches in your screen,
these will poish out ever so easily with brasso or glitto

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by nugent

any scratches in your screen,
these will poish out ever so easily with brasso or glitto

Cheers!


12 months is beginning to feel like it

[Nos4r2]

Short update-spent the last 2 days cleaning stuff still. Whatever was spilled inside the seats/console is very tenacious. It's taken sealant remover to get most of it up, which means doing 3 to 4 inches at a time and cleaning out the diamond pattern in the deck one line at a time with the edge of a scraper.

Fitted a new WEMA fuel sender-the magnet/float type rather than the type with an arm. I've put one in that only goes to about 90% of the tank depth so I've got a safety margin.

Just picked up some new hatch seal material from Tymseals
I got some white soft silicone sheet as well for gaskets round the instruments.

[will_m]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

That's what I'm thinking-probably late 40s, maybe low 50's as it's VERY light for what it is-there's quite a lot of unneccessary crap not going back in.

I've put a 21" Lazer II on there as the original prop was obviously underpropped.

RIB International 02/03/2006 article : BIG GUNS IN FOUR-WAY SHOOT OUT

(I’ve a copy & can email if you want it..)

Anyways it was test for the then current 250hp offerings from Evinrude, Yamaha, Mercury and Suzuki. All rigged on the back of Ballistic 7.8mtr provided by JBT.

Article goes into a lot of detail, but in summary they recorded the following WOT performance figures with each outboard.

Yamaha F 250 = 47.35kts
Mercury Verado 250 = 45.9kts
Suzuki DF 250 = 45.75kts
Evinrude E-Tec 250 = 45kts

0-40kts
Yamaha = 11.71sec
Mercury = 13.13sec
Evinrude = 14.71sec
Suzuki = 17.9sec

I know all different outboards to yours, but maybe a useful bench-mark of performance.

I’ve done in excess of 200hrs in a Ballistic 7.8mtr pushing the best part of 350hp (not an outboard) and that in the flat runs all day long at WOP 55kts/56kts on the gps.

I like the hulls very much, although hard ridding they can be fast boats. Interesting that you say the seat base fell apart in your hands, same for the anchor locker seat base on this hull after less than two years!

[Nos4r2]

Cheers, yes please! I'll PM you my email addy.


Small update-weather and work have stopped me getting much done this week. I spent yesterday at JBT marine and Force 4 in Bursledon so now have the hatches I needed and a set of backrests along with a pile of other small odds'n'sods that were holding me up.

[Nos4r2]

Right, I'm now utterly flummoxed and after suggestions.


The problem is this:-

Once the console and seating are in the boat, there's not a lot of room to access in the top half of the console apart from what's immediately visible through the top hatch.

Sat in front of me is a Blue Sea Systems 12 circuit fuse panel and one of these Blue Sea isolators.:-




I'd like to be able to get to them and keep the wiring neat,but there doesn't seem to be an easy way to do it without mounting them on the shelf in the console.

Any ideas?

[Jizm]

No way to pre-wire the console before fitting?
What about cutting out the console front completely and fitting a panel you can remove with all the electronics in place on it?

[Nos4r2]

Yes, I'm pre-wiring it. However, if there's ever a problem with it I'd like to be able to fix it without having to remove the seats or the console for access.

I think I've sussed it now, but it means there'll be no storage in the top half of the console. It's probably no bad thing though given how much kit is sticking through into it.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

The problem is this:-

Once the console and seating are in the boat, there's not a lot of room to access in the top half of the console apart from what's immediately visible through the top hatch. Any ideas?

Old Spice had a washing up bowl glassed into the inside of the console, actually I was going to use it as a mold but it was quicker to glass the actually bowl in. Then a hatch was cut to access this space from the outside. The VHF and barometer lived in there, so well protected but easy to access in a hurry.

Pete

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/IMG_3030.jpg

[Rogue Wave]

one of these if memory serves

Whale Henderson Watertight Inspection Hatch TCL4

[Nos4r2]

That's not a bad idea. I might do something similar, or stick a locker in the side.

[Pete7]

Yes, there is an oblong white hatch with a box attached which would it.

[Nos4r2]

Hatch with box purchased, but.... It'll obstruct the routing for everything going under the deck. It's currently sitting on the workbench with a load of glue setting on it as I've had to modify the box somewhat.
Fun with double jockeys on the way now...

I've found that the yellowing on the double jockeys is far deeper than I thought and isn't even coming off with 80 grit. The gelcoat's getting a bit thin and I'm not through the yellowing yet.

So....

Here's a question. If I flowcoat over the yellowing, will it come through the flowcoat?

Probably worth a separate thread

[Jizm]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Here's a question. If I flowcoat over the yellowing, will it come through the flowcoat?

I don't think it will nos.