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17 May 2007, 04:56
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#21
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Member
Country: New Zealand
Town: Nelson
Boat name: Mr MaBlue
Make: Wavebreak 4.2 Sport
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 18
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...it was a suggestion of potential cause of veering, hugh, not an indictment of manufacturing quality. I still would make sure the motor is positioned properly as part of my investigation of this issue. good luck. cheers, gruntessa.
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RIB'd for Business and Pleasure
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17 May 2007, 06:22
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#22
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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[QUOTE=IBWET;199824] Nick,
Thanks for having a look, I'll try to have a go at bleeding it, as I've found the manual.
There are two clear tubes supplied with the steering kits one pushes over the bleed valve on the steering ram the other has a male thread on one end for connection to the helm unit and a cap on the other for connecting to the oil bottle
I cut the bottom off the first oil bottle so that you can pour the next into it saves alot of mess if you have to use more than 1 bottle of oil
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17 May 2007, 08:46
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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some dealers have the bleed boxs for automatically priming and bleeding the steering, it might be worth going down this route to make sure there is defo no air in the system as bleeding manually is quite a pain apparently, i think they say it is 30-45 mins work
that might help and is certainly the approach i would take
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17 May 2007, 08:58
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#24
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon
some dealers have the bleed boxs for automatically priming and bleeding the steering, it might be worth going down this route to make sure there is defo no air in the system as bleeding manually is quite a pain apparently, i think they say it is 30-45 mins work
that might help and is certainly the approach i would take
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Yep two man job and 45 mins to do it, we did each side three times to be safe
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17 May 2007, 09:09
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#25
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Can you pressure bleed them?
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17 May 2007, 09:40
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Can you pressure bleed them?
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i worked with the guy who used the bleed box on mine and it was a very simple job once all connected up, the box would pump fluid round the system and ensure that it is totally bled, was very efficient and did a great job with no mess
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24 May 2007, 23:52
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#27
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Oakley
Boat name: Zerstörer
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
MMSI: 235050131
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,931
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Iain,
When I changed my prop today I noticed something that may be of use to you.
The little rudder thing behind the prop on my engine is turned a few notches to the right. Going on what someone else mentioned earlier it might be somewhere to look.
And now the engines running smoothly I can reiterate the fact that I need no input to maintain a steady course.
Hope this helps.
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24 May 2007, 23:59
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ayrshire
Boat name: Raven
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 suzuki
MMSI: 235040525
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 654
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Thanks Nick,
The seastar man is looking into getting a dealer up here to have a go at checking, or so they think possibly cleaning the valves at the hub..
will let everyone know what it turns out to be and how it was rectified.
IB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggles
Iain,
When I changed my prop today I noticed something that may be of use to you.
The little rudder thing behind the prop on my engine is turned a few notches to the right. Going on what someone else mentioned earlier it might be somewhere to look.
And now the engines running smoothly I can reiterate the fact that I need no input to maintain a steady course.
Hope this helps.
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07 June 2007, 19:42
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ayrshire
Boat name: Raven
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 suzuki
MMSI: 235040525
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 654
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update:
The problem was dirt in the check valves,North West Marine (largs marina) a good contact, changed the hub at the wheel,this rectified the symptom, the boat runs true and straight now.
!3 year old's first go at wakeboarding this weekend, so just sorted in time.
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07 June 2007, 21:58
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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Ayrshire - lovely part of the world. I grew up in Ardrossan and Saltcoats and learned to dive there. I will say the weather down here in the Scillies is a tad better tho'.
Happy ribbing.
Ian
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