Boat Cleaning

[RichardinNZ]

I spent some time cleaning the tubes (pale grey hypalon) on our Gemini WR550 yesterday. I first used a mould cleaner (chlorine free) and then used Aurora inflatable boat cleaner and a '000' grade pad (Norton Synthetic Steel Wool).

There are still some marks, which in some places do go some more if I rub harder, however can I use a coarser pad?

I'm heading back to the UK next week, so there will be more choice of cleaner for me there. I was thinking about getting the RibShops Rib Cleaner and Rib Revive. Any thoughts?

Thanks

[Tim M]

I use either these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HIGH-...TNqBqlN6R6_1-w

Or these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magic-Spo...f2b6d4010b1e9c

Available in just about every supermarket world wide!

Ribshop do a kit which comes with everything you need including the cleaning pad so that might be worth a shot.

[boristhebold]

What ive found that works best for me is hot soap and water plus fairy liquid power spray and use a green slightly abrasive cleaning pad, then wash off/rinse off and finish with the Rib conditioning gel from ribshop.

The fairy liquid power spray and hot water ive found works great for getting salt off the grp parts of a rib, fairy liquid power spray is one of those great finds, as its cheap and effective.

[Simonh66]

I’ve just used Ribshops, it’s not that good. I’ll be trying August Race kit next time

[RichardinNZ]

Originally Posted by Simonh66

I’ve just used Ribshops, it’s not that good. I’ll be trying August Race kit next time

Was that their cleaner you have used, not the conditioning gel?

[RichardinNZ]

Does anyone know, are the green pads graded as to coarseness (ie equivalent to wire wool).

The Norton ones here are, and as mentioned I've used the 000 grade ones. I did have one green pad (bizarrely labelled as being marketed by Bosch) and it seemed similar to the 000 ones in texture.

Thanks

[RichardinNZ]

Originally Posted by boristhebold

What ive found that works best for me is hot soap and water plus fairy liquid power spray and use a green slightly abrasive cleaning pad, then wash off/rinse off and finish with the Rib conditioning gel from ribshop.

The fairy liquid power spray and hot water ive found works great for getting salt off the grp parts of a rib, fairy liquid power spray is one of those great finds, as its cheap and effective.

I'll see whether we have the power spray here! Hot water is a good idea.
Thanks

[RichardinNZ]

Originally Posted by Tim M

I use either these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HIGH-...TNqBqlN6R6_1-w

Or these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magic-Spo...f2b6d4010b1e9c

Available in just about every supermarket world wide!

Ribshop do a kit which comes with everything you need including the cleaning pad so that might be worth a shot.

I've half a magic sponge somewhere; I'll try it. Thanks

[Wightdiver]

Spent last Saturday giving Red Dog her annual clean up using Fairy Power Spray. It always does a good job but I have noticed that over the last few year the number of black mould spots are increasing, tried every mould removing product out there but nothing touches them.

I saw a posting on Facebook this week about a product called Shmuffex, so I bought a bottle from Rib Shop, WOW, every spot on the tubes are gone, easy to use and fantastic results. The only problem I had was that the areas with the mould spots that I cleaned came up far cleaner than the rest of the boat so I had to clean the whole thing.

Next year I will just clean the whole boat with this and not start with FPS.

Top tip, if you are going to google the product make sure you do not make a spelling mistake, I dread to think what might come up!!!!

[willk]

Originally Posted by RichardinNZ

Does anyone know, are the green pads graded as to coarseness (ie equivalent to wire wool).

They absolutely are:

"3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)"

[RichardinNZ]

Originally Posted by willk

They absolutely are:

"3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)"

Many thanks...looking at that I can go up a grade!

[willk]

Originally Posted by RichardinNZ

I was thinking about getting the RibShops Rib Cleaner and Rib Revive. Any thoughts?

Thanks

I've used RIB Revive. It's OK - that said, this year I bought a 20L drum of the meanest nastiest TFR I could find (£25) and applied it warm at 50/50, using a green scotch pad. It was VERY effective. You'll need a "uv treatment with optical brightener" to finish the job. Beware of TFR and Finishes with silicone in - hypalon and silicone aren't a great mix.

Green pads are quite abrasive when new - be cautious about applying them vigorously to dark sheen fabrics - they have caused issues with black tubes etc. After a short time in use they become much less aggressive. I use new pads on the underside of tubes in heavily fouled areas and on heavily oxidised patches on top (but rubbing gently).

[DanExe]

[emoji106] Shmuffex works wonders, but is rather expensive.

The active ingredient is sodium hypochlorite, as you probably already know. I make my own diluted solution from buying it concentrated at Mole Valley, under the brand name Deosan. Much better value at £11.16 for 20l.

http://m.molevalleyfarmers.com/h5/r/...-hypochlorite?

It is essential that suitable ppe is worn! Nasty stuff - especially if inhaled, ingested or splashed on your skin.

[RichardinNZ]

Guess one of our farm shops here would have that...

[DanExe]

They are sure to sell it there in NZ, or possibly on ebay or Amazon, if not. It’s used extensively over here by farmers and is also known as “dairy wash”.

[Simonh66]

[QUOTE=RichardinNZ;792627]Was that their cleaner you have used, not the conditioning gel?[/QUOT

I used both

[RichardinNZ]

Thanks Simon.

Looks like I know what mould remover to use now... Just what conditioner...

[Simonh66]

Originally Posted by RichardinNZ

Thanks Simon.

Looks like I know what mould remover to use now... Just what conditioner...

The conditioner seems ok, but don’t know long term yet. Only used it last week. Boat now on dry stack so I’ll see how it looks at the end of the season

[DanExe]

As a final touch, I can totally recommend 303 Aerospace UV protectant.

Available in NZ: https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/30...6ml/p/A1282296

Not really a conditioner, but provides a lovely finish and lasting protection. Lots of info and reviews on here and the web. Check it out.

[Wightdiver]

Originally Posted by DanExe

[emoji106] Shmuffex works wonders, but is rather expensive.

The active ingredient is sodium hypochlorite, as you probably already know. I make my own diluted solution from buying it concentrated at Mole Valley, under the brand name Deosan. Much better value at £11.16 for 20l.

Deosan Red Label Hypochlorite

It is essential that suitable ppe is worn! Nasty stuff - especially if inhaled, ingested or splashed on your skin.

How much do you dilute it by?