Check your winch

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Thanks Pat. I am planning visit to home depot tomorrow after I pick up the new winch.

Have you considered a winch which uses a worm and wheel? It cant slip and you can stop winding at any point even under maximum load. The down side is there's usually no quick release. But my experience of ratchet winch failure is that the release/ratchet mechanism is the week point.

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Have you considered a winch which uses a worm and wheel? It cant slip and you can stop winding at any point even under maximum load. The down side is there's usually no quick release. But my experience of ratchet winch failure is that the release/ratchet mechanism is the week point.

Thanks, I will look into that.

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

If you don't want it to scratch stuff, stick it in an old bicycle innertube if you can't find a sleeve for it.

Not really sure that's necessary, as the chain runs from wherever it's bolted to the trailer (usually the winch stand) to the eye bolt on the hull. It doesn't really cross anything that could be damaged by scratching. But, hey; it's your rig...

This does bring up another issue, though, and one I need to investigate on my trailer. I remember on my Achilles, the safety chain was attached at one of the bolts holding the winch. I don't know where it is on the Polaris. I will make sure that the bolt shear strength equals the chain strength; won't do much good otherwise.

jky

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Not really sure that's necessary, as the chain runs from wherever it's bolted to the trailer (usually the winch stand) to the eye bolt on the hull. It doesn't really cross anything that could be damaged by scratching. But, hey; it's your rig...

This does bring up another issue, though, and one I need to investigate on my trailer. I remember on my Achilles, the safety chain was attached at one of the bolts holding the winch. I don't know where it is on the Polaris. I will make sure that the bolt shear strength equals the chain strength; won't do much good otherwise.

jky

After some mental noodling I have come up with the following. The object is to have a safety chain system ( both fore and aft) that is easy to hook up and does not end up with lengths of chain flopping and dragging around that need securing.

Attach a length of 5/16" chain to the winch post and the other end to trailer cross member. Leave just enough slack in the chain to allow a 3/8" carabiner to be coupled between the chain and the bow eye. Cover chain with protective tubing between bow eye and cross member. Only one hook up for both functions and when boat is off trailer chain is still hanging there and no loose ends. Will also use a ratchet strap from winch post end of chain down to trailer for hold down purposes and to take the slack out of the "hold forward" part of the chain. Should be easy to use.

[jyasaki]

Sounds like a good job, LL.

The only other risk is the back of the boat slewing around under a quick deceleration. Though some strong transom straps should help minimize that if the front can't move.

jky

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Sounds like a good job, LL.

The only other risk is the back of the boat slewing around under a quick deceleration. Though some strong transom straps should help minimize that if the front can't move.

jky

Yup, you are right. I have just invested in a pair of 1000lb ( working load) ratchet straps for the transom. They are not cheap. have no suitable anchor points on the rear of the trailer so will have to drill a couple of holes and attach two 3/8" eye bolts. Will take the opportunity to pump a bunch of oil into the trailer members to reduce the risk of rusting from inside out.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by Stoo

I don't have a safety chain, but I use the bow line to secure the boat forward and down. It wraps through the winch support and bow eye 3 times (6 "layers" of rope) before I tie it off... It seems very secure...

The forces, even on a steep hill (mine) are very slight at the moment the boat wants to exit the trailer as no momentum occurs and no inertia must be overcome. Rope chaff is your only enemy but a visual on the dead/live end and what lies in between is a simple pre-flight exercise. Stoo's method of simply beanering the bow line to the winch support post solves the problem. I don't do high speed multi-mile journeys and would re-evaluate were I to do so but for low speed, rough and steep terrain, bow line is fine. KISS (he constantly says to himself).

Do I love trailers? Caution, repost:

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Not really sure that's necessary, as the chain runs from wherever it's bolted to the trailer (usually the winch stand) to the eye bolt on the hull. It doesn't really cross anything that could be damaged by scratching. But, hey; it's your rig...

All I do is loop the chain under the drawbar, behind the winch post and padlock it to the bow eye with a BIG vinyl covered padlock.The chain isn't attached to the trailer-just locked to it. As long as the drawbar doesn't snap (nearly impossible!) it can't move backwards.

After I launch I use the lock/chain to lock the trailer to something as well as the wheelclamp/hitchlock.

[BogMonster]

Ow. The winch on my trailer is knackered too but as the boat won't even think about moving in either direction on the trailer in less than about 4 feet of water at the stern, it doesn't really matter - the trailer is a PITA but has some default safety benefits!

[Limey Linda]

Some useful info. I came across while searching for a new winch.
http://www.dutton-lainson.com/hwsg.php

[yorfuoj]

jwalker, what make is your worm winch ? It seems interesting

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by yorfuoj

jwalker, what make is your worm winch ? It seems interesting

Remember that with a worm gear winch you cannot freewheel you must wing it out and in. This can be time consuming. However they cannot break and spin on you so there is a trade off. BTW I am know an official member of the "black hand gang" both sides

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by yorfuoj

jwalker, what make is your worm winch ? It seems interesting

Home made I'm afraid, and it can be freewheeled out and in.

When I was considering winches a good while back I came across them, so they are available.

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Home made I'm afraid, and it can be freewheeled out and in.

When I was considering winches a good while back I came across them, so they are available.

Very interesting. Does your design involve disengaging the spur gear from the worm gear to allow free wheel. I guess on way to make one would be to find a burnt out electric winch and modify it. All the worm gear ones I have found are electric with slow ratios.

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Very interesting. Does your design involve disengaging the spur gear from the worm gear to allow free wheel.

Almost. It disengages the worm from the gear.

[Limey Linda]

Thanks JW , I got the "picture"

[kitten]

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Remember that with a worm gear winch you cannot freewheel you must wing it out and in.

Oh yes you can, it all depends on the pitch of the worm, do'nt just look at it and thik it's a worm I'm safe, you're not

[Limey Linda]

Having replaced the winch with a very nice 2 speed I examined the one that failed. At some time someone had caught the trailer wiring cable in the winch gears. The smaller gear had copper wire packed into the bottom of the teeth, thus preventing the ratchet pawl seating properly. Who would have thought???