clean and waterproof Gortex surface drysuit?

MI3GTO · 03 January 2012, 21:59

What do you folks suggest as the best way to clean and re waterproof a Gortex surface dry suit ? What waterproofing restore brand do you use? G

mick · 03 January 2012, 22:08

Use pure soap for starters go outdoors sell the stuff you need or any camping place for re proofing I get the spray on one and rub it in,I got some that does tents last time bigger bottle for less money or you can get it from a tack shop in big bottles they use it to re proof horse rugs as well.

mick · 03 January 2012, 22:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by discomick

Use pure soap for starters go outdoors sell the stuff you need or any camping place for re proofing I get the spray on one and rub it in,I got some that does tents last time bigger bottle for less money or you can get it from a tack shop in big bottles they use it to re proof horse rugs as well.

Forgot grangers or Nikwax but read this http://blog.outdoorscotland.co.uk/20...-on-cheap.html

jyasaki · 04 January 2012, 16:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by discomick

Forgot grangers or Nikwax but read this Goretex Re-proofing on the Cheap - Outdoors Blog

Note that you should not use this on drysuits if you plan on replacing seals or zipper (or patching pinholes, for that matter) in the future. The silicone washed into the fabric will prevent any glue from adhering.

jky

captnjack · 04 January 2012, 16:33

Is the suit actually leaking? 2 possible leaks are abrasion or wear through the actual goretex coating or pinholes.

Or is the outer fabric just wetting out and then its not breathing properly so getting excess condensation inside?

Actual wear needs to be patched and if its too extensive the suit is junk. If the outer fabric is just getting saturated then you need to get it really clean with a pure soap as mentioned. Then run it through the wash a few more times without any soap to really rinse it. Any soap or detergent residue will attract water into the fabric.

Lastly apply something like nikwax. As the article mentioned it doesn't last all that long before it needs to be reapplied.

MI3GTO · 07 January 2012, 20:27

Let me explain a bit more...

I have a Gortex Musto HPX suit that has the wrist seals "melted" or in the middle of melting. They where like that when I got it (fleabay). The only way to describe the seals is as if they where burnt or stuck into a pool of solvent and are still soft and transferring the sticky goo onto parts of the suit, real messy.

I can pick off most of the black goo but it leaves a mark behind so I will be attempting to try heat and solvent like toluene or maybe acetone?? but need to try small area so not to hurt base material. I will need to re proof when done no doubt.

The general suit needs a good clean but as per Musto instruction I will was in the machine and use a non detergent soap. Thanks for the pointers.

Any suggestions as to removing the goo from the suit would be gratefully received.

GS

mick · 07 January 2012, 20:37

give these a ring Robin Hood Watersports I took a suit in this week for new feet & neck £75 they may be able to offer somme advice sounds like the seals have gone off.

MI3GTO · 07 January 2012, 20:41

Just like the pics show in this thread

My Drysuit's melting!!!!!!!!!!!

chewy · 08 January 2012, 00:02

My seals went like that on my old suit, its just lack of maintenance and been stuffed in the bottom of the cupboard thats caused it.
You shouldn't need to re-waterproof the suit, it its leaking then you have a hole or like others have said a small pin hole which will only get bigger.

Pikey Dave · 08 January 2012, 09:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by MI3GTO

Let me explain a bit more...

I have a Gortex Musto HPX suit that has the wrist seals "melted" or in the middle of melting. They where like that when I got it (fleabay). The only way to describe the seals is as if they where burnt or stuck into a pool of solvent and are still soft and transferring the sticky goo onto parts of the suit, real messy.

I can pick off most of the black goo but it leaves a mark behind so I will be attempting to try heat and solvent like toluene or maybe acetone?? but need to try small area so not to hurt base material. I will need to re proof when done no doubt.

The general suit needs a good clean but as per Musto instruction I will was in the machine and use a non detergent soap. Thanks for the pointers.

Any suggestions as to removing the goo from the suit would be gratefully received.

GS

Latex seals have a limited life, this has always been the case. Any contact with oils, greases, solvents etc will cause them to revert back to their natural liquid state. ALWAYS dry them off, powder them with unscented talc & store in a cool dark place out of sunlight & away from any solvents, greases etc. Any dive shop will be able to get them changed for you.

ee lad, tha can't educate pork

Leapy · 08 January 2012, 09:56

I thought Gore-Tex waterproof technology was in the material and the weave, not through chemical additives?

treerat · 08 January 2012, 10:16

You may be able to salvage teh seals with Seal Saver - really good, I use it when putting suits into store or when they get stiff / sticky.

Gore-Tex keeps water out by its construction, but for it to work the tiny hairs in the fabric need to be stood up, a short tumble dry on low heat normally does this, once you start adding waterproof layers then the gore-tex is dead and it's the layer doing the job.

The Nix wax stuff is great for this but is designed for Paramo kit, which isn't gore-tex and works differently. It'll keep things dry until it wears off though.

The other thing to remember is salt will clog gore-tex and stop it breathing / waterproofing.

MI3GTO · 08 January 2012, 12:23

Folks thanks to all for the advice great info. I will replace the seals that is not a problem, have replacements already to go. My big concern is the removal of the goo that the old latex seals has caused so still open to suggestions as to how best to remove it. Options look like heat, solvent (acetone toluene diesel ????) or abrasive none of which is to be taken lightly given possible damage to fabric..

Once removed I will clean and tumble dry as per suggestions. I have asked Musto and Gore but nothing back yet.

jyasaki · 08 January 2012, 21:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

ALWAYS dry them off, powder them with unscented talc & store in a cool dark place out of sunlight & away from any solvents, greases etc.

Better to start by rubbing down with soapy water to remove skin oils, then proceed as above.

Not that I do that; I just plan on having seals replaced every 9 months to a year.

jky

chewy · 08 January 2012, 23:57

Tumble dry!?

I wouldn't tumble dry mine if I were you. For getting the old glue off try using crepe that old show soles were made out of and thinners.

MI3GTO · 09 January 2012, 09:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by chewy

Tumble dry!?

I wouldn't tumble dry mine if I were you. For getting the old glue off try using crepe that old show soles were made out of and thinners.

The manufactures recomend the tumble drying of the suit on a low heat.

"crepe" do you mean crape fabric? what type of thinners?

gs

MI3GTO · 14 January 2012, 09:28

After several days of testing I have a solution. THF worked over the old latex with a cotton bud. Then a clean cotton napkin placed over the stain damp with THF. No damage to the under fabric, still waterproof and no stain. I bought 1 lt of THF local for £11.00 but only used about 50ml so try find someone with it to give you a small bottle to save money and I don't fancy storing this stuff for long. THF is Tetrahydrofuran used a lot by PVC welders.