Custom forward console on 5.9 RIB

[OLD CROW]

Hi, Im in the process of deciding what to buy for a family ocean exploring and fishing boat..

I've been using a 4.7m roll up boat with a 40/60 jet outboard that I use for everything including shallow rivers and open ocean with downriggers for salmon. This boat is great at nothing and ok at everything. I've decided to put an aluminum bottom on it with a tunnel and make it a dedicated shallow water boat and then buy an inflatable for the ocean.

So I've been looking at the Highfield OM 590. I like the aluminum bottom for running up on beaches and the price suits my budget. Locally they are 25k canandian dollars for a hypalon tubed hull with no console or outboard.

I want to design my a custom console that suits fishing and the family a little better. I want to put the console further forward, have a full width windshield and have an aluminum tube structure to put a top on. A full width bench seat so one person can sit facing the stern to watch the rods. I drew a rough picture, I will try and attach it..What do you think?

[Nos4r2]

Welcome to Ribnet.

I suspect you'll get a pounding that far forward.

[breezeblock]

Highfield do a harbour master version

[OLD CROW]

Thanks for the replys, I wasn't aware they did a harbour master version..will have to see if thats available over here..thats exactly what I want..

[office888]

I'd strongly recommend looking at something like a Zodiac RecPro 550 or 650.

You can very easily add a canvas enclosure to the t-top. T-top has 4 factory rod holders, and there's 4 more located on the stern box.

Aluminum can crack and is a lot less forgiving than fiberglass in someways. Gelcoat is easy to fix, aluminum is not...

[ShinyShoe]

Originally Posted by office888

Aluminum can crack and is a lot less forgiving than fiberglass in someways. Gelcoat is easy to fix, aluminum is not...

So you can have:

* a metal hull that if it gets scraped, dented and generally starts to look like a baboons arse will usually still "function" without the actual integrity of the material being substantially affected. If you pound it hard enough it will split/crack.

* a GRP hull that WILL get scraped, chipped, and eventually holed. That once the gel is breached will let water into to resin mat and deteriorate the matting. If you pound it hard enough it will split / crack.

Mmmm...

You can have:

* a metal hull that can be patched up with temporary fillers if you needed to as a "get you home" fix. That to fix "properly" will need welded. That you can weld in any air temperature (OP is in Canada - I gather it gets chilly up there). That once its welded is ready to go - no curing, sanding, fairing needed to be usable. (You can fair it later for efficiency if you want). Welding will be more "risky" - need to avoid the tubes and the electrics (and the petrol).

* a GRP hull that is fixable, but takes multiple layers of resin & mat and then gel and lots of sanding etc to make a decent job of it. Can't be used while you are repairing it. Ideally needs >10C to work on, certainly > 5C.

But don't be tempted by that Metal hull just because I'm making it sound good... after all Office888 supplies GRP boats - so he must be right (or perhaps biased)

You can have:

* A lightweight hull that has lower engine power requirements, Lower engine power that means its both cheaper to engine and cheaper to run

* A fibreglass hull that means you can hang a bigger engine on the back so that all your mates can comment on the number of horses you have compared to others.



That said... the real questions you should be asking:

* How robust is a metal hull against the beaches you want to run up?

* Resale values down the line

* Is the hull shape right. The Highfield isn't a bad hullshape. But is it the RIGHT hull shape for your use.

[office888]

Welding old, contaminated aluminum is extremely difficult. The powder coating will need to be ground off to patch. It cannot be repowdercoated after it is removed, you'll will be stuck with paint which is less durable than powdercoating.

I can patch 20 year old fiberglass in about 2 hr. No specialty tools required.

For US origin Zodiac pro hulls, isophthalic resin and all synthetic cores are utilized, so moisture attack of the resin or coring is a non issue.

I'm not a huge fan of aluminum on a boat. It takes a lot of specialty considerations to maintain.

[Ukee]

This is a late reply - so nore sure if you have purchased a boat yet howver I have the OM590 and have put over 100 hours of heavy use around Vancouver Island. Mainly up in Clayoquot, Barkely Sound & The Gulf Islands.

We fish, and do lots of coastal exlproing. I have setup the boat with custom mounts for 2 downriggres, and rod holders behind the seats. Works like a charm!
The boat is designed for big water, and I have had it in Gale Force wind conditions (due to poor planning) and I was surprised how well it handled. Even thought that is not conditions I want to be in again, I have confidence in the quality of these boats.

The aluminum hull is the better choice for the west coast of Canada. I have had fiberglass prior to this on another RHIB and would never go back to this. These Chinese (yes I said it) Chinese mass produced hulls are actually exceptionally well made. The consoles, PVC tubes are all high quality.

We do lots of boat camping and coastal exploring, and a tried method for the rocky shores is to have a good stern anchor and bow line to shore with a ladder over the bow. If conditions are too dangerous to do that, then we anchor off shore and use inflatable paddle board to get to shore.

I also got the T-Top with Radar, and a full range of electronics. I can go into more details if you wish. Just FYI the T-Top that Highfield makes is an aftermarket add on - that is their only weakness - it is not made well. I had to have it reinforced by a welder. Other then this - the boat is unreal.

Ask if you got more questions - I will upload a pic to my profile.

Cheers,