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04 August 2012, 21:35
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
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Dairy Bleach for controlling the green stuff
I was recommended to use dairy bleach (stronger than household) to spray on the hull and tubes whilst pigs ear is on a mooring. The mooring dries out btw :-)
The idea being that a bi-weekly application kills of the slime before it takes hold and you can clean it off by going for a blast...
Sounds simple enough, does anyone have any experience of doing this ?
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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04 August 2012, 22:01
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
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I was having a long chat with a supplier about Dairy Bleach today (I want to know what strength it is and he'll tell me next week). I reckon it's around 11-13% Sodium hypochlorite when fresh (it degrades over time). That's very potent! The catch for you is that the stabiliser in the mix is Sodium hydroxide, aka drain cleaner or Caustic Soda. It's not what you want on yer trailer, skin, clothes, etc.
I use a 12% product for work, it's top at cleaning moss and stains off brickwork when diluted down to around 10-15% from concentrate. I'd just be cautious around metals. If you're on a mooring, then it would work but the eco-types will be after you - the product carries watercourse hazard labels.
It's not toxic per se, but will kill/dissolve everything it touches.
HTH
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04 August 2012, 22:06
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Somerset
Boat name: Nimrod
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 200
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
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"Dairy bleach" is just sodium hypochlorite and is stronger than retail bleach - you'll still need to dilute it to use it. It is a very effective cleaner when mixed with green soap - washing up liquid. Of course, far be it for me to recommend mixing chemicals but it is very effective.
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04 August 2012, 22:17
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
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Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timw44
"Dairy bleach" is just sodium hypochlorite and is stronger than retail bleach - you'll still need to dilute it to use it. It is a very effective cleaner when mixed with green soap - washing up liquid. Of course, far be it for me to recommend mixing chemicals but it is very effective.
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Why do you dilute it? Would it damage the hull and tubes if used neat ?
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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04 August 2012, 23:41
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
Why do you dilute it? Would it damage the hull and tubes if used neat ?
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No it wont affect rubber or plastic on a short term basis , but it will leach colour if left and not flushed off tubes etc at that strength...it will also attack metals, particularly unpainted ones that have anodised finishes, or anodes them selves on your ob.
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05 August 2012, 02:05
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Make: Valiant 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 80 EFI
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 53
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Chris be extremely careful with this product, use with caution. its an excellent cleaner for killing all things slimly and green but is very dangerous if it comes into contact with eyes.
A dairy farmer friend unforunately got some splash back into his eyes and spent time in hospital until his eyes recovered. very painful and he was told he could have lost his sight.
Safe cleaning -Pottsy
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05 August 2012, 10:45
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#7
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RIBnet admin team
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The neat product will eat through clothing and "burn" skin. I get the odd splash and the first sensation is of heat, intensifying to tingling/burning as the nerves get some. By that stage the product is fizzing as it eats into the skin. You really don't want it on your face!
It has a very high pH (unsurprisingly) and is extremely aggressive.
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05 August 2012, 10:48
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
Make: Air-Craft 5.4
Length: 5m +
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Sounds like the same stuff they use for cleaning the lines in pubs which is very potent when neat.
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05 August 2012, 11:43
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerny
Sounds like the same stuff they use for cleaning the lines in pubs which is very potent when neat.
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I don't think its the same stuff. You wouldn't want a whiff of chlorine off your beer
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05 August 2012, 12:25
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Dunoon
Boat name: Celtic Wanderer
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 9m +
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
I don't think its the same stuff. You wouldn't want a whiff of chlorine off your beer
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it might make the warm fizzy drink the englanders call beer taste better!!!!!
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05 August 2012, 12:44
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Alderney
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Posts: 3,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
I don't think its the same stuff. You wouldn't want a whiff of chlorine off your beer
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I am sure they dont mix it with the beer, rather it is run through the pipes and left for a short period before being flushed with lots and lots of water.
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05 August 2012, 13:17
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Channel Ribs
I am sure they dont mix it with the beer, rather it is run through the pipes and left for a short period before being flushed with lots and lots of water.
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Really? You mean that people aren't actually left drinking beer line cleaner?
Well I'll be damned!
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05 August 2012, 13:34
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
Really? You mean that people aren't actually left drinking beer line cleaner?
Well I'll be damned!
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Oi! Sarccy b*****d. I have actually drunk beer on Alderney and can confirm that it does contain hypochlorite.
I know this, 'coz it tasted bloody awful.
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05 August 2012, 16:04
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMac
it might make the warm fizzy drink the englanders call beer taste better!!!!!
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No probably better in your Shilling or Bellhaven... it certainly would make those two brews taste a lot better
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05 August 2012, 16:07
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Channel Ribs
I am sure they dont mix it with the beer, rather it is run through the pipes and left for a short period before being flushed with lots and lots of water.
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Correct it is pumped up into the pipes and then left in them for an hour or so before being flushed out with fresh water.
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05 August 2012, 16:23
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#16
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Member
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Town: Orkney
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Same stuff I used to use to clean out / flush blood analysers - so pretty useful stuff if you also don't want to catch Hepatitis etc from your boat's hull
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05 August 2012, 17:43
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cornwall
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And the same stuff I use to 'shock' dose our swimming pools, very effective form of chlorine to use as a disinfectant. I've also used it to bleach patios etc in a well diluted mix. Had it on my skin quite often without such dramatic results as Wilk so either my mix is weaker (but it says 13% as per previous post) or he's lost his man up pills, again.
Wouldn't dream of using it neat on the Rib.
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05 August 2012, 17:58
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#18
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RIBnet admin team
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kernow Buoy
Had it on my skin quite often without such dramatic results as Wilk so either my mix is weaker (but it says 13% as per previous post) or he's lost his man up pills, again.
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Any long term buddy of Mollers doesn't need to carry out an "acid test" to prove that they have thick skin
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05 August 2012, 18:00
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
Any long term buddy of Mollers doesn't need to carry out an "acid test" to prove that they have thick skin
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"Buddy"?!!! The bloke's a twat!
The hypochlorite 'skin peels' aren't doing much to slow the aging process Kerns. Perhaps you should try something a lot stronger.
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05 August 2012, 18:13
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
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Posts: 7,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
"Buddy"?!!! The bloke's a twat!
The hypochlorite 'skin peels' aren't doing much to slow the aging process Kerns. Perhaps you should try something a lot stronger.
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Me thinks that your are just jealous of my good looks Mollers
No "s" on the end of Kern BTW
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