Deck remedial work

[cjj216]

As mentioned in another post, I'm considering installing captive bolts to make my rear pod seats removable.
Watching Humber threads over the years, I'm half expecting to find that the underside of my deck will be bare ply. Hopefully, the ply won't have any rot.
Bearing in mind I'll be removing all of my pod seats as I'm glassing in the two side by side console pods.
Do you think It's feasible to take strips out of the deck, say 250mm wide, at say 500mm centres to gain access to coat the underside of the deck and then glass in replacement strips that have had the underside sealed?
This is all hypothetical at the moment. Hopefully, the underside of the deck wasn't built on a Monday and will be sealed!

[Tim M]

I personally wouldn't start ripping up bits of deck unless I really had to - Humber aren't known for soggy deck issues, so if it ain't broke..... Cutting extra access holes etc is only going to weaken the deck and give the moisture somewhere else to hide in time.

[cjj216]

I agree. I won't be mending anything that's not broken.
In any case, I need to create an access hole beneath both rear pod seats if I'm to do a proper job of installing the captive bolts.
Hopefully, I'll find the underneath of the deck with some sort of coating.
Judging by the Humber threads over the years I reckon I've a 50/50 chance of finding bad things under there.
Would be a shame as the boat is in very good order everywhere else.
In anticipation of this I just wondered whether the method I've proposed is feasible remedial work or would it be a complete deck off job to maintain any structural integrity the deck gives?
All my cables and fuel lines are above deck in a conduit so once the seats are out, removing the rear 2/3rds of the deck and replacing wouldn't appear to be such a major task. Or have I missed something?
As I said earlier, it's all pie in the sky until I cut the holes. I suppose I'm just thinking out loud really.

[jeffstevens763@g]

My ribquest was built the same it had two 4 inch hatches to gain access to the A frame bolts what your contemplating is a massive job you would have to clean the wood first then apply a coating and through holes that need to be water tight , I would fit a hatch at each seat site so you can bolt through water tight ( sika)if you drill a hole and put an inspection camera in , you can find the stringers/ bulkheads and plan from there get good hatches though if you do ( bomar)Your floor should be good if no water has got in. Has it got a keel drain mine did and was left out when ashore.

[cjj216]

I need to fit bighead bolts in to the deck.
Reading on various forums, the consensus seems to be to cut out the deck where the bolts are to be fitted. Seal the edges of the hole then cut a piece of marine ply longer, but slightly narrower than the hole you've just cut, seal all edges and sides, and screw through the deck to fix this to the underside of deck thus creating a 20mm recessed platform to sit the bolts on and glass in.
Somebody stop me if I've got this wrong!
I'm just thinking of the threads over the years regarding Humber decks and thought that if the underside of the deck is showing any issues then this would be the time to carry out any remedial work and seal correctly as the seats would be removed.
There is a bung in the front anchor locker and in the rear well. This set up means the hull does get water in but it's let out through the rear bung, in to the well and then out via the 12v pump or, if under way, the elephants trunk.
On a couple of occasions over the years (the boat was 12 months old when I got it) I've left it on a mooring for a couple of days and forgot the rear bung. It's p**sed down and the hull has had a load of water in.
This has been let out and when not in use the boat is in a shed, under cover, With the bungs out.
All will be revealed when I cut these holes!

[HUMBER P4VWL]

Humber claim to seal the under deck and I've not seen any threads on soggy decks on here, perhaps I've missed them? Which do you mean?

Most soggy decks I've seen on here on other makes are from poorly installed screws, hatches, jockeys etc not the deck itself.

I'd have thought you'd be fine but you never know I guess. Time will tell!

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL

Humber claim to seal the under deck and I've not seen any threads on soggy decks on here, perhaps I've missed them? Which do you mean?

Most soggy decks I've seen on here on other makes are from poorly installed screws, hatches, jockeys etc not the deck itself.

I'd have thought you'd be fine but you never know I guess. Time will tell!

I agree with Mr.HUMBER P4VWL.

And why don't you use self tappers and save yourself a whole lot of grief? Done properly they are a very strong fastening.

[gtflash]

Got any pictures of what your deck looks like and what you plan. ? If you need access to underside, some well placed inspection hatches can look very factory. Maybe the hatches could be under something like the seat pod for example.

[Chris Caton]

any sort of captive fixing can only be as strong as the material it's captive in, so if you start cutting into the deck you're going to compromise the fixing, or have I missed something ................

looking at where you're based, why don't you give Mike Whitham of Whitham Glassfibre a call, he's just outside Ormskirk, I'm sure he'll be able to give you some good advice or even fit the captive nuts for you, he's a top man

[cjj216]

Humber Paul - don't you remember the state of that Humber that Nugent came across a couple of years back?
Not sure why it was like that but the thread went cold after Nugent left a cryptic message implying Humber had contacted him.
Hopefully, that was a one off.

JWalker- I didn't explain myself fully. My current layout is fixed with Sikaflex and self tappers from the factory. Water gets in to the pods so if there's not a full bed of sikaflex at the base then I'd be surprised if the screw holes have had Sika in them. For that reason I want to glass in the front pod seats.
I'd like the option of removing the rear pods to give more space when fishing. Captive bolts would enable this, plus I could put threaded eyes in when the seats are out and strap down my tub for live sandeel.

gtflash - access hatches are an option, although probably not needed once the works is done.

Chris - I've spoke to Mike. He's up for doing the work and at a very reasonable price! He agrees that to fit the bolts properly he'd need to cut access holes but reckons any ply edges exposed when cutting, and all faces and edges of ply used to repair the holes would be fully sealed.
It looks like I'd be best doing a couple of weekends in work and transferring those funds to Mike - He certainly knows his stuff!

[mick]

One of my rear pods comes off and it's held on by 4 of these

[jeffstevens763@g]

Have you tried taking the screws out to see if it's rotten and lift the seats re-stick down and screw down with coach bolts ( better grip) than screws. When I took mine out to fit shock seats I got the screws out took a while then I had to drift the seats up with wedges after going round with a multi tool stuck as fast as just with the sikaflex. For your back seat why not make a rail system so they can go anywhere.

[cjj216]

Mick - they look interesting. Where did you purchase?

Jeff - not done nothing yet. As I've said, the deck could be fine. I'm just thinking out loud regarding what I might discover when I remove the seats.
Wouldn't coach bolts need to be fitted from underneath? With a washer and nut on?
What I call a coach bolt has a domed head, a full thread, and no point at the tip?
I like the idea of a rail. My initial thoughts are that this could be done with the screw and sikaflex method. Save cutting in to the deck.

[Chris Caton]

Originally Posted by cjj216

Chris - I've spoke to Mike. He's up for doing the work and at a very reasonable price! He agrees that to fit the bolts properly he'd need to cut access holes but reckons any ply edges exposed when cutting, and all faces and edges of ply used to repair the holes would be fully sealed.
It looks like I'd be best doing a couple of weekends in work and transferring those funds to Mike - He certainly knows his stuff!

apart from the fact that Mike will do the job properly, if he does find anything else to be concerned about you can be sure he'll sort it out for you, even better if a bit if overtime will cover it

[jeffstevens763@g]

Yea understand concerns and time will tell as for coach bolts they are hex head large thread seascrew sell them Easy to tighten than screws without damage to the slot or Phillips head the rail system would work well same method of fixing no deck holes no glassing up get the proper sika. I am no expert but when I did mine with shock seats I changed the bases to aluminium to get the right height stuck mine down with sika and large screws 18 on each tape round to stop spillage of sika onto the deck screw down leave 24 hours ( summer) solid job even with shock seats in hinesight I would have used coach bolts I found the screw heads got damaged easy ( stainless soft) but I kept my pilot hole small so the screw was a force fit to prevent leaks but coated with sika to seal and lubricate the thread whilst screwing in.

http://www.nuts4bolts.com/dp/17549

This type cheers

[cjj216]

Chris - I found Mike to be a top bloke. I don't think anything would be a problem to him. If I go ahead with him, he suggested coming in to his workshop when he cuts the access holes to see for myself how it's put together and what condition things are in.

Jeff - do you have a link to the rails you've used? I take it its in two parts? With a rail on the deck and something fixed to the seat base to attach with?

[Chris Caton]

Originally Posted by cjj216

Chris - I found Mike to be a top bloke. I don't think anything would be a problem to him. If I go ahead with him, he suggested coming in to his workshop when he cuts the access holes to see for myself how it's put together and what condition things are in.

Mike supplied and fitted the console/jockey seats and anchor locker to my Searider, he did a cracking job, he also pointed me in the right direction to get the tubes fitted, stainless made and fitted, and the upholstery sorted, he's a top bloke

[jeffstevens763@g]

Haven't used the rail system myself but seen it used on some manufacturers I think it's mainly for work boat applications I would recommend speaking to Humber when I spoke to them I found them very helpful in your case you would get a lot of info on the boat just by mentioning you would like a system to move your rear seats around worth a try cheers

[mick]

Originally Posted by cjj216

Mick - they look interesting. Where did you purchase?

Jeff - not done nothing yet. As I've said, the deck could be fine. I'm just thinking out loud regarding what I might discover when I remove the seats.
Wouldn't coach bolts need to be fitted from underneath? With a washer and nut on?
What I call a coach bolt has a domed head, a full thread, and no point at the tip?
I like the idea of a rail. My initial thoughts are that this could be done with the screw and sikaflex method. Save cutting in to the deck.

They've been on the boat since it was built but I've seen them here http://m.seascrew.com
The hook bit is on the floor and there not obtrusive when the pod is removed and they stand a hammering when the pod is sat on and you won't make a mess of your floor just self tappers and sikaflex

[gtflash]

http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/removeab...w-32701-2.html

A few ideas on there. I'm sure Hunton used to make a table post that was basically a blind stainless hole screwed in from top. The inside of the blind hole was threaded. So effectively it was a big head mounted from the top. It was impressive but of polished perfection.

Any idea how thick your deck is and if it is wet or dry? Some exploratory holes might suffice