DIY Jockey Seat

[atn]

I hope this isn't a stupid question.

Because of the complexity of constructing jockey seats out of GRP, other than the significant weight difference, can any one see a problem with constructing the base of marine ply with a re-enforced frame ?

[TIM]

Gavin and I Built 2 jocky seats out of GRP, the tough bit was making the mold, after that it was easy....

We still have the mould and fiberglass

There are photos on ribnet if you do a search.......

Gavin reckons it cost nearly as much as buying them...

I reckon it cost about 60%

[Pete7]

If you not after a sunseeker finish then make the box out of 5.5m ply on a 2 x 1 frame and cover the outside and inside in GRP. Costs are about £60. The finish can be improved after the GRP has set by adding a second coat of resin then sanding it flat before a coat of paint. The result will be acceptable and strong. I will post a couple of pics on the gallery forum.

Pete

[Pete7]

Without doubt if you can go to the trouble of making a mould then glassing the seats, a professional finish can be achieved. However here was a seat made from 5.5mm ply over a frame and glassed up with three layers of 450 CSM.

[Pete7]

another pic

[Pete7]

The final seat

[atn]

Thanks Pete

Pics would be useful. I think this is the way to go as I don't have the time or money to be making moulds to produce in pure GRP.

[Pete7]

Okay, pics in the Gallery forum, the semi circle foam can be bought loose from a cushion maker. I use Flew Sails in Portchester, always helpful and will supply a small quantity for DIY.

Pete

[gavin]

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1597

[jwalker]

You can finish the outside of a moulding by mixing a proportion of gel coat with normal resin. Just enough so that it does not slump on a vertical suface. Add a little wax and use a roller to apply it. It produces a smooth but stippled finish, a bit like Polytex. I like the finish and use it often.
If you want to paint it, don't use the wax.

JW.

[jwalker]

Forgot to say: If you are encapulating plywood in GRP, you only need to buy WBP grade ply. Water & Boil Proof. Even B&Q sell it. If you intend to laminate inside as well as outside, you will not need to reinforce with a frame The extra thickness acheived by the use of the plywood will make it very rigid. 3 layers of 1.5oz CSM will be plenty. You'd probably get away with 2 inside and out if your laminating technique is sound.

JW.

[Jelly]

You can also build the console this way, a couple of members of the power boat club at Uni built two center consoles to convert the old 4m Seariders. You can also make it to fit the fuel tanks you are using and other clutter that floats around the boat if you have no lockers.
Jelly

[thewavehumper]

if you buy the exchange and mart you should find a GRP supplier advertising , by the stuff you need mail order or from an inland supplier from yellowpages. it will be around half to a third of the cost than from a chandlers.

I think a firm called glassplies does mail order

Glasplies. ... Web: none. E-mail: unknown. Address: Glasplies, 2 Crowland Street,
Southport, Lancashire PR9 7RL. Telephone: 01704 540626. Fax: 01704 537322. ...

By the way ATN if you put your location in your profile then people may be able to give you local assistance

[whitingiom]

Pete


That looks great!

How easy would it be for a totally untechy accountant type to put one of those together?

Are you selling the plans/instructions?

My next door neighbour is pretty handy with wood etc.

Need more seating in my new acquisition

Jon

[Pete7]

Hi Jon,

You have registered a new boat in your profile I see

Jon, dead easy, took a couple of weekends in all. Start with a sheet of 5.5mm B & Q ply. Doesn't need to be anything else as you are going to cover inside and out with GRP. Try 10m of 450gr CSM and 10 L of resin. Add your chosen colour to the final coat or just use white resin if thats more suitable. The ply is joined with a 2" x 1" frame and the three man seat has a bulkhead half down along. The bottom is about 14" wide and the top 11.5" I think because thats the width of the foam I bought. Total length is 48" which happens to be the width of a sheet of ply. With three layers on the outside and two on the inside I can just lift it into the boat. The back wall is reinforced with thick ply to take the grab rail, which came from a previous rib.

The foam came from Flew Sails in Portchester but most sail makers also make seats and covers so should be able to supply. It comes in a semi circle already which saves trying to cut the stuff as its really diffcult to get a straight edge. Sail makers use something that looks like an industrial carving knife.


Hope this helps

Pete

[whitingiom]

Pete

I have just found this thread!

I am sorry for sending you a private mail asking all these dumb questions which had already been answered on here.

A couple more though......

Do you screw it to the deck with stainless screws or glue/glass it in?

[Pete7]

You could use screws but the weight of several people hanging onto a seat when the boat takes off from a wave should be considered. Skilaflex if I have spelt it correctly is good stuff having taken a Ribtec seat out that was glued in with it ( in addition to the screws) I can testify to its strength. (We used an angle grinder in the end). also take note of the number of screws that the quality builders use, like lots, 80 in my Halmatic single console seat!

Alternatively if you want it to be removable like I did, then you need a good ply base to the console through which 6 heavy duty bolts go though to a "top hat" which is set into the deck with expoxy and long screws. My "top hats" are probably 100 x 40mm and have 10mm S/S bolts. This means for the sake of ten minutes work the seat can be removed and the space used for diving kit. The bolts go back in after the seat is removed to keep the deck water tight.

Pete

[thewavehumper]

Velcro I fancy

[Pete7]

Stu, are you using Velco now because anything metal corrodes on a Camel boat ?

Pete

(Sorry mate, couldn't resist it)

[whitingiom]

What's a top hat?