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04 May 2013, 20:39
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#1
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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DIY non-slip /anti skid Best methods?
I'm probably going to do the Ballistic deck with some form of non slip as after bleeding the steering I found out how utterly useless the moulded non slip is.
I don't want to use Treadmaster, and the alternative that I quite like is so bloody expensive that it'd be the same price to use a false teak type decking (which I don't want).
What I'd REALLY like is that fine sandpaper-like finish I keep seeing, but no paint I've tried seems to replicate.
1) How exactly is it done? Is it bird sand? Sprinkled on between coats or mixed with the paint and constantly agitated or another way?
2)Would this be any better than bird sand? 25kg 180-220 aqua blasting glass etching aluminium oxide sand grit shot bead | eBay as it's the same stuff as the incredibly expensive Jotun anti slip additive.
I've just done a test piece on some scrap using this mixed with flowcoat and the result is even, but it'd cost as much as Treadmaster to get anywhere near the finish I want. They're incredibly stingey with what they send out.
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04 May 2013, 23:45
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: LONDON
Make: SR4/ZODIAC/3D
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30T/40T
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,433
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By difinition, the most effective non-slip surface will be uncoated and sharp. This method is extremely effective and a bit of a lateral thinking one.
The best non slip surface that I've come across and the most durable is on a belt sander.
This can be bought in huge lengths and widths and grades and indeed colours. It is fabric backed and by nature nearly indestructible under the harshest of abuse.
It is cuttable to size and shape, pliable and waterproof. Apply it with epoxy resin and it'll not be shifted, ever.
If you find a suitable colour or decide upon contrast then this may well be your answer.
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05 May 2013, 19:47
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Matt, two coats of this stuff on a well prepared GRP will give a smooth surface like 180 wet and dry paper. It isn't affected by petrol either.
Linky
However, you must scrub the life out of the deck first so green pan cleaning things TFR and elbow grease, 3 complete times.
Next thin slightly the first coat and allow to dry. Top coat just paint on. I think you will need 2 tins since a 750ml tin just does a Viper 5.95 deck, but any left will touch up for next year.
The light grey colour is cool in bare feet, very grippy even with diesel on it (don't ask) and it doesn't fade so any scratches I got from weight belts and diving tanks were just touched in and matched perfectly when dry. Do buy the thinners for it.
I did a proper job the first time. Second boat I didn't clean the deck well enough and the paint started to lift, lesson learnt.
Pete
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05 May 2013, 20:10
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#4
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Thanks Pete
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05 May 2013, 20:19
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Nothing stopping you doing a herring bone pattern with masking tape to give it the posh expensive look. Also leave slight gap around the consoles with masking tape. Don't paint the vertical transom, removing grease will be much harder.
Congrats on 10,000 posts btw
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05 May 2013, 20:49
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#6
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
Nothing stopping you doing a herring bone pattern with masking tape to give it the posh expensive look. Also leave slight gap around the consoles with masking tape. Don't paint the vertical transom, removing grease will be much harder.
Congrats on 10,000 posts btw
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Cheers Pete
I can't do that without grinding all the moulded non skid off the deck first, and I really don't want to do that as I'm reliant on a generator for mains power to work on it.
I'll think of something
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05 May 2013, 21:54
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Carpet
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05 May 2013, 21:59
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: LONDON
Make: SR4/ZODIAC/3D
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30T/40T
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Cheers Pete
I can't do that without grinding all the moulded non skid off the deck first, and I really don't want to do that as I'm reliant on a generator for mains power to work on it.
I'll think of something
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Sanding belts, just have a look.
Not as Heath Robinson as you might think. Just don't nail them in place.
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05 May 2013, 22:53
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: LONDON
Make: SR4/ZODIAC/3D
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30T/40T
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncp
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Perfect distillation of my guff........3M
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05 May 2013, 23:06
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Bit of a shame you can't generally get 3m products over here.
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05 May 2013, 23:10
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: LONDON
Make: SR4/ZODIAC/3D
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30T/40T
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,433
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3M United Kingdom & Ireland - Products & Services
Only some
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05 May 2013, 23:11
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: LONDON
Make: SR4/ZODIAC/3D
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30T/40T
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,433
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look for 3M UK and it may work out, their html seems tricky to transfer
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05 May 2013, 23:16
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#14
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
|
got it.
No non slip on there though.
I suspect I'll probably end up doing the flowcoat/birdsand thing now in any case-it's just got a bit spendy again and I already have a load of flowcoat here.
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05 May 2013, 23:28
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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I have used this before on a sailing dinghy with good results, gives a very good finish
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
Matt, two coats of this stuff on a well prepared GRP will give a smooth surface like 180 wet and dry paper. It isn't affected by petrol either.
Linky
However, you must scrub the life out of the deck first so green pan cleaning things TFR and elbow grease, 3 complete times.
Next thin slightly the first coat and allow to dry. Top coat just paint on. I think you will need 2 tins since a 750ml tin just does a Viper 5.95 deck, but any left will touch up for next year.
The light grey colour is cool in bare feet, very grippy even with diesel on it (don't ask) and it doesn't fade so any scratches I got from weight belts and diving tanks were just touched in and matched perfectly when dry. Do buy the thinners for it.
I did a proper job the first time. Second boat I didn't clean the deck well enough and the paint started to lift, lesson learnt.
Pete
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