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26 May 2005, 10:44
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban
Boat name: RIB Tickle
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5.3m
Engine: Yamaha 60ETO,Tohatsu 3.5
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 371
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dodgy wheels!
Anybody had problems with wheels cracking up? I stopped after hearing a clicking noise last week and found one of the 10" wheels on my trailer had started cracks under the paint around the outside of the stud holes which had almost joined up all the way round. The noise was the disc still solidly bolted to the hub "clicking" back and forth through the rest of the hub going round cornersand and the cracks weren't really apparent from the outside of the wheel. I had to remove them to see the cracks properly.
The trailer is only 18 months old and hasn't been heavily curbed and the tyres are not damaged, the local trailer place was surprised to say the least when I showed them. They said the only time they had seen this was on heavy curbing and the tyre was usually destroyed in the process.
It could have been a lot worse it if it hadn't been noisy before it finally broke
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26 May 2005, 10:51
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Surrey
Boat name: ocean pro 6.3
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140hp suzuki
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 824
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what brand of trailer was it?
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26 May 2005, 15:17
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Inverkip
Make: Redbay 11m Cabin
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x Yamaha422Sti 275
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 567
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Bruce,
I've not really seen it on small trailers, however I have seen it on lorries and large twin/tri axles. Cause can either be exessive scrud....dont think thats yours, or running heavy with slack nuts . The ones I've seen have all cracked between the holes for the nuts all the way round . Out of interest are you rims of the double pressed type?? or do you perhaps inadvertantly over load her woth all you twins etc.
Andy
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Hard or Soft it's never BIG enough
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26 May 2005, 16:02
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban
Boat name: RIB Tickle
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5.3m
Engine: Yamaha 60ETO,Tohatsu 3.5
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 371
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The wheels are branded CLM on a snipe trailer and are the type with two pressings welded together. They are rated to 500kgs each and the whole boat and trailer weighs less than 750kg cos its unbraked (really! I worked it out including all the additions!)
Kit isn't carried in the boat except when launching at the bottom of the hill about a mile from the house, when travelling any further than that it goes in the car and the other wheel looks OK, even with kit it would still be well under the wheel rating as never more than two sets of twins are ever carried or launched in the boat ever, any more gets loaded after launching.
The cracks aren't between the nut holes but about an inch outside with the crack travelling all the way round nearly. If it broke I would have had the whole disc still attached about an inch bigger than the nuts holding the wheel on.
Having problems with Snipe at the moment, they agreed to sell me a pair of wheels for the price of one after seeing the picture then overcharged me enough that for £9 more I could have bought two identical wheels from my local supplier, still waiting for a call back after complaining
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26 May 2005, 16:49
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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That is classic failure mode for over loading Have you always owned the trailer are you always bumping along in the gutter Have you checked the wheel alignment Is there excesses rust between each part of the wheel Or are your scales wrong Des
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26 May 2005, 17:00
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban
Boat name: RIB Tickle
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5.3m
Engine: Yamaha 60ETO,Tohatsu 3.5
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
That is classic failure mode for over loading Have you always owned the trailer are you always bumping along in the gutter Have you checked the wheel alignment Is there excesses rust between each part of the wheel Or are your scales wrong Des
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Not overloaded.
trailer only 18 months old, owned from new.
Nope no heavy bumps and tyre condition bears this out (undamaged)
Wheels have surface rust but and damage seems to be inside the paint layer.
Only one wheel affected, other is fine, any weight difference from my calculations will be minor as even spares were allowed for in the total. The axle and wheels are rated for 1000kg and I am nowhere near that especially as it is unbraked and I want to be able to stop it!
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26 May 2005, 17:15
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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Most trailer wheels in the UK are only painted steel and rust forms easily below the paint go to Australia and you can get got dip galvanised ones
Because they are only spot welded in a few places it does allow rust to form between the surfaces that make up different parts of the wheel, but this trailer is too young for that to be an issue The wheel isn’t an old one painted up as new
Have you looked at the alignment You need to consider the alignment of the wheel to wheel not axle to trailer. Axle to trailer will sort itself out on a two wheel set up but it could be that one wheel is more toe in or out than the other Tires can be very forgiving when it comes to scrub so might not show anything unusual
Des
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27 May 2005, 09:50
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban
Boat name: RIB Tickle
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5.3m
Engine: Yamaha 60ETO,Tohatsu 3.5
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 371
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But surely if axle alignment is out both wheels would be affected as well as marks on the tyres?
Scrubbing usually leaves light scuff marks that can be seen if it is happening for long enough and other alignment problems usually leave their own evidence. Both tyres and fine and evenly worn.
When I get the new wheels I may have a look and measure the front and back rim distances but wouldn't think that was it.
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27 May 2005, 10:00
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupert Bear
But surely if axle alignment is out both wheels would be affected as well as marks on the tyres? ......
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No it could be that one trailing arm is out, this type of failure occurs because the wheel is being excessively flexed beyond the area clamped by the bolts.
Failure occurs because of poor design, materials, construction or abuse you choose I’ve suggested the lot. Des
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27 May 2005, 11:42
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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I had exactly that problem with two wheels on a six wheel trailer. The two wheels were of different design to the four which were ok. The ok wheels had a flat centre disc, the ones which failed were pressed to have four stiffening ribs but these concentrated the flexing into a narrow area and the crack developed there.
Of course, fhe flexing is greater when using multiple wheels because of the sideways dragging which occurs.
It was interesting to note that the cracked wheels actually looked to be a stronger product.
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JW.
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27 May 2005, 11:58
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
.......a six wheel trailer.........It was interesting to note that the cracked wheels actually looked to be a stronger product.
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I can understand this with a six wheel trailer, that will really load thing up but given that all Mr Bear said is right, it doesn’t make sense
Incidentally it wasn’t the relative positions of the wheels that produced your problem they weren’t both at the front or diagonally opposite each other Des
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27 May 2005, 12:06
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
..Incidentally it wasn’t the relative positions of the wheels that produced your problem ...
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No, it wussnae. I did expect someone might presume I'm a fool.
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JW.
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27 May 2005, 12:10
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
No, it wussnae. I did expect someone might presume I'm a fool.
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I don’t think you are fool, I was just asking, even the best of us miss things at time. Des
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27 May 2005, 12:18
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
I don’t think you are fool, I was just asking, even the best of us miss things at time. Des
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JW.
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27 May 2005, 13:44
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban
Boat name: RIB Tickle
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5.3m
Engine: Yamaha 60ETO,Tohatsu 3.5
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
No it could be that one trailing arm is out, this type of failure occurs because the wheel is being excessively flexed beyond the area clamped by the bolts.
Failure occurs because of poor design, materials, construction or abuse you choose I’ve suggested the lot. Des
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If one trailing arm was bent both wheels would be affected, on a single axle trailer the axle would crab to split the forces through each tyre equally scrubbing both tyres. the one sided stress you mean would only happen on a multi axle trailer or vehicle where the force is acting against other axles/tyres that are straight such as the six wheeler mentioned.
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27 May 2005, 15:07
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupert Bear
If one trailing arm was bent both wheels would be affected, on a single axle trailer the axle would crab to split the forces through each tyre equally scrubbing both tyres.......
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Only in a straight line as soon as you start to corner or you are driving on a heavily cambered road the loads can be enormous The proof is in the failure. Des
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31 May 2005, 09:59
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban
Boat name: RIB Tickle
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5.3m
Engine: Yamaha 60ETO,Tohatsu 3.5
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 371
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Measured the trailing arm toe-in as best I could, seems to be straight as far as I can tell without proper kit.
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31 May 2005, 11:21
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Rupert, there'll be nothing wrong. It's just a crap wheel which has fatigued. Keep an eye on the area around the stud holes on the hub flange.
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31 May 2005, 15:04
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Going a little off topic but.....I noticed my 10" tyres say that they are only rated to 325kg each, that means that they're not up to the job of supporting the weight of my 750kg snipe trailer package. I had a look around at other 10" tyres and the best rated one I could find was only 350kg each.
Is this a common load rating and if so will I need to upgrade to a 13" set of tyre's?
Andy
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31 May 2005, 16:03
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban
Boat name: RIB Tickle
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5.3m
Engine: Yamaha 60ETO,Tohatsu 3.5
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 371
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I have 500kg (each tyre) tyres on my 10" wheels and a 440kg rated tyre on the spare so they can be found
try googling Autow in Perth who sell them.
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