Drying - Quickly

SteveHall · 01 November 2013, 19:49

I have a question, and I need the knowledge of the forum!

On my last trip out I noticed that my cable gland / witches hat / deck fitting had come away form the hull - this happened before so my quick both hasn't held up, now my plan wasn't to use the RIB till next year, giving it plenty of time to dry out and then I could look at resolving this then - but I am now out next weekend so need to resolve this.

Whats the best way to fill the holes, and dry the deck out first?

spartacus · 01 November 2013, 22:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveHall

I have a question, and I need the knowledge of the forum!

On my last trip out I noticed that my cable gland / witches hat / deck fitting had come away form the hull - this happened before so my quick both hasn't held up, now my plan wasn't to use the RIB till next year, giving it plenty of time to dry out and then I could look at resolving this then - but I am now out next weekend so need to resolve this.

Whats the best way to fill the holes, and dry the deck out first?

I'm assuming the witches hat has some sort of plastic shroud that goes over the top of the rubber? If the holes are clean and dry you can use an epoxy gel coat filler on them. Once that's dried, rotate the plastic shroud/cowl so that you can drill new pilot holes into the deck. Apply a bead of marine sikaflex under the witches hat and screw the shroud down over the top. Use 316 stainless steel self tappers. Clean off any excess sikaflex with white spirit. Job done!

Not sure about drying the hull void, other than pulling the bung.

kerny · 01 November 2013, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

Not sure about drying the hull void, other than pulling the bung.

I always leave my bung open when on the trailer it lets air circulate inside the hull void.

I tend to get rain water inside my hull if it rains hard I think that it runs down the cables going into the witches hat, I have tried putting self amalgamating tape round them, but water it still finds its way down them.

SteveHall · 02 November 2013, 16:33

Sorry guys I wrote this in a rush as SWMBO was dragging me out, Its the old fixing holes before I fill them that I wanted to dry out…

Heat Gun on low?

Steve

GJ0KYZ · 02 November 2013, 19:40

Sorry if I appear thick but isn't there a below-deck tube that connects the witch's hat end with the console end (as with my boat - Ribcraft)? This would mean that even if you left the 'hat' off you'd only get a tube-full of water coming in at most and it would stay in the tube and not get in the hull. Are you sure the water in your hull is coming through the hat and not from elsewhere?

kerny · 02 November 2013, 19:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by GJ0KYZ

Sorry if I appear thick but isn't there a below-deck tube that connects the witch's hat end with the console end (as with my boat - Ribcraft)? This would mean that even if you left the 'hat' off you'd only get a tube-full of water coming in at most and it would stay in the tube and not get in the hull. Are you sure the water in your hull is coming through the hat and not from elsewhere?

Not sure what you mean GJ, I think that the water runs in between the cables going through the w h . here's a pic.

GJ0KYZ · 02 November 2013, 20:40

Yes, the water will get through the WH as it will on anyone's boat; those things aren't 100% tight against all the cabling. However, between that point and the console there ought to be a tube that's connected at both ends and through which the cables run. It's means that water will enter that tube and fill up to a maximum of one tube full rather than keep on filling up the hull as would be the case if the WH and console weren't connected as such. I can't imagine your boat wouldn't have a tube connecting the WH and console; it would be an obvious (and potentially dangerous) design flaw. You wouldn't be able to add any new cabling if nothing else.

kerny · 02 November 2013, 20:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by GJ0KYZ

Yes, the water will get through the WH as it will on anyone's boat; those things aren't 100% tight against all the cabling. However, between that point and the console there ought to be a tube that's connected at both ends and through which the cables run. It's means that water will enter that tube and fill up to a maximum of one tube full rather than keep on filling up the hull as would be the case if the WH and console weren't connected as such. I can't imagine your boat wouldn't have a tube connecting the WH and console; it would be an obvious (and potentially dangerous) design flaw. You wouldn't be able to add any new cabling if nothing else.

Looks like there is in this aircraft build thread. Is this what you mean..

http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/new-buil...4-a-20218.html

SteveHall · 03 November 2013, 00:39

Sorry guys, like I said I wrote this in a rush, but it was in my mind

It's not the water in the hull, it's the moisture in the hull ply, before i fill the old drilled holes, as I don't want to fill the moisture in the wood ....

RIB-Teccie · 03 November 2013, 04:19

If RIB is indoors, cover over with a tarp and put a heater underneath, you could try putting salt down to pull the moisture then Hoover out. It's worth a try if nothing else.

I've used a tarp and heater many times, just not the salt!!

RIB-Teccie · 03 November 2013, 04:24

Didn't notice you picture b4 I said that. Try filling the well a bit with those absorbent granules you get for those cheap caravan dehumidifiers and cover the well with something which won't condensate or get damp.

You could maybe try newspaper, it can draw moisture, it would get damp, but can be changed daily.