Epoxy Resin

[slangley]

Hi All,

I am just about to fix my home made fiberglassed console to my Avon Searider. I am trying to do this without drilling any holes in the deck as I have just filled in all the holes from the previous owner and re-gelocoated the whole of the RIB.

My question is, would Epoxy Resin on it's own be strong enough to fix the console to the deck. Where the console base touches the deck is pure fiberglass ( no gelcoat on that bit ).

Cosmetically the RIB looks fantastic now and I was trying to avoid using Epoxy and then fiberglassing over the base because I have designed the console to fit exactly with anti-slip mat around the rest of the deck.

Many thanks in advance.

Steve.

[Dirk Diggler]

Originally posted by slangley
Hi All,

My question is, would Epoxy Resin on it's own be strong enough to fix the console to the deck.

NO !!! You need a mech fixing such as bolts or screws, together with either silicone or preferably sikaflex.

[slangley]

Thanks for your reply Dirk, I have seen a few RIBS where there are no screws or bolts holding the console in and just appears to be stuck to the deck. I was wondering how they did that.

Browsing the web there were loads of reviews on how good Epoxy Resin was as an adhesive. I was trying to avoid drilling into the deck as one of the problems I had was that even though the water ballast on the searider is sealed, I was still getting loads of water in the hull. The way I could see it was getting in was the holes in the deck.

I primarily use it for diving and when the water ballast system is open it takes ages to get on the plane due to the extra weight of the water in the hull. I used to have a pump going into the hull so I could pump the water out prior to moving off which solved the problem but is a pain. This is why I want to try to avoid drilling anything into the deck now.

[MeMe]

On my previous RIB and the one currently owned by a pal, our consoles were both mechanically fixed with s/s bolts and epoxy. In both cases the console still had some movement. Give this careful thought especially if it has a grab rail/handle of any description fitted to the same as when that 16st pal of yours is hanging on for dear life, the console will need all the support you can give it.

[slangley]

Thanks MeMe, I can see your point. Do you have any idea of how deep I can drill without leaving an open channel into the hull.

The bolts that were there previously were very long. Unfortunately I didn't measure the depth before I filled it all, but I know that the old bolts went straight through because I could force water into the hull by puting a hose over the bolts.

[Bilge Rat]

Hi Steve

great to know your in the final stages of fixing and understand what you mean about the bolts into the deck, my consoul is screwed down to the deck and the screws are on the inside of the consoul rather than the outside, ribcraft bond and i believe screw there seats and consouls to the deck and the end result looks very nice.

Meme is correct, anything you screw down to the deck has to be a nice tight fit and seal any scews down with sikaflex as this will make a water proof bond.

Best Wishes and let us know how it goes.

Richard

[thewavehumper]

Could you not put some internal flanges on the Console and then screw them down would this give you the look you want?

[Ian]

My new rib is having the console fixed to the deck with no mechanical fixings, the sets of jockey seats likewise.
Presume that on new build this is a suitable method but on reto. fits a mechanical fixing will give added strength.
Once bolted, can you gelcoat over the fixings to add to the strength?

[Charles]

Something like this Ian?

[bobdyer77]

why worry about water getting into the hull, that's what the searider was designed to do! If you don't want the hull to flood during short stops,plug the two inlet holes in the bow, you'll find they're threaded and get yourself a self bailer to replace the original elephants trunk,(consists of a device with a ping pong ball affair which will block the stern outlet when stationary but allows any water entering the boat,including above deck, to exit the boat when moving. That way you still have maximum stability when stationary and she'll empty and come up on the plane in seconds.
with regards to your consul the best way is definitely to screw it down from inside (about 8 evenly spaced) using nice sized washers to spread the load and plenty of sikaflex all round to assist in adhesion (seals the screw holes as well.) the deck is only about 1.5cm thick so whatever you use will go through.

[Searider]

Epoxy might not be strong enough but an adhesive like ITW Plexus methyl methacrylate may well be.

A company I used to work for sold this stuff and many boatbuilders secure their hull to deck connections and internal stiffeners with it. Will be stronger than what ever it sticks to.

Sunseeker Camargue 50 and Melges 25 hull to deck connections are made using this.

Search on the web for Plexus or ITW

Maybe an avenue worth exploring.

Duncan

[Dirk Diggler]

Plexus is an outstanding adhesive, forms a chemical bond with the laminate, in the event of a failure it's normally the glass that lets go first. I'd still use some sort of mech fixing as well though!

You can buy it from Marine & Industrial Sealants
tel: 01692 408822

[Hightower]

Just a thought about fixing your console without using screws though the deck.

Might it be possible to cut a peice of marine ply the the exact size of the bottom of the console, then coat with fibreglass resin allow to dry then fix this to the hull via glue/chopped strand/whatever.

This would give you a much larger surface area for adheasion to the deck than just mounting the console by it's self.

Push the console over the now, raised plinth and screw from around the bottom of the console, you could also fibreglass inside as well for extra strength.

No holes in hull but screw heads around console bottom. The choice is yours!

Hope this helps.

[thewavehumper]

Hightower,

Your profile says your a Mechanical engineer, so consider these issues whilst making your analysis

Your boat is not new, you do not know if any delamination is starting to occur between the Gelcoat and the GRP (glass Reinforced plastic.

The Gelcoat is not really an integral part of the structure and has no impact resistance whatsoever ( it does look pretty however)

If you get a bit of wood and laminate that to the Gelcoat and then fasten your cosole to the wood, then isn't this just a nother way of attaching to a non structural component!

It wouldn't happen in my world ( but then I am the first to admit that my world is a strange place)

[slangley]

Thanks for all your replies. It looks as though I will have to bolt it down as well. Unfortunately, I wont be able to bolt it down on the inside of the console because it has been designed to accomodate a bigger fuel tank under the console and there will not be much space to fit any type of bracket on the inside.

Wavehumper, just for your information, the original Gelcoat on the deck has been completely removed. At the moment there is just raw fiberglass there. It will not be regelcoated until the console has been fixed in place. I did this with the intention of getting as good a bond as possible for any adhesive.

I may give this Plexus a try and see how it goes. Once I give it a test on the water, if it seems a bit unstable then I can always add bolts to give it the extra strength.

But as you mentioned, there will be grab rails on it. Normally they are not used but I do not want the day to come when they are and then the console gives way.

Again, many thanks for you replies.

[gavin]

These seats are stuck down with resin and mat with the bonds done on the inside, rock solid no problems