Feature follow-up: Pacific Console Change - Page 5

Neville · 02 November 2003, 15:52

Seb, We tried using these Oceanline ammeters and found them different too. One problem being as I remember a relay needs to be put in before the gauge. Cant quite remember though. Anyway, we thought it was more trouble than it was worth so we sent the ammeter back and opted for a volt meter instead - again oceanline. No problem with fitting and also you dont need to run those heavy power cables up to the dash. Also having a voltmeter allows you to see the real state of the battery when the engine is switched off. Presume that you got your ammeter from Low Tension - he sounds a nice guy , he may swap it for no extra charge if you want to go down that route.

With regards to your back covers flexing, we stiffen these from the inside with another bit of ply glued on. And no more flexing. The same can be done with the large covers at the front with some strips of hardwood.

The alloy plate sounds like an even better idea though. better still if a different solution was found instead of using a million screws to hold the covers down!

Pete7 · 04 November 2003, 09:09

All those screws are just to stop bored little fingers on RN ships from tinkering and clearly it works. Halmatic don't want people fixing things on board ship when they can do a very nice refit instead. Loads of them in Halmatic at the moment under going refits.

Pete

Pete7 · 08 November 2003, 23:09

One of the ali deck plate

Pete7 · 08 November 2003, 23:13

Different Angle

Seb · 13 November 2003, 17:08

Does anybody know roughly how much a standard RN P22 mk1 was to buy before they were discontinued?

Pete7 · 15 November 2003, 10:14

Seb I don't have a figure but I promise that if Halmatic are selling to the RN then the price would take your breath away. It could also include a maintenance package as well though. If I can get mine into Halmatic for repairs then i will ask them, however they are very sensitive to working on MOD boats. No cameras on site and don't look at that grey thing over there. What that funny looking %*&*%. Oh okay.

Pete

Seb · 15 November 2003, 15:48

Cheers.

Having problems with the boat are you? You must have a big bank account to be putting it in to Halmatic for repairs!

Do you know if they do tours around the factory. Id quite like to see where mine came from. Guess its a pretty impressive place.

SEB

Neville · 18 November 2003, 22:21

Seb, As I remember the last price of a mk1 was over 90k, and i heard a mk2 was 125k. Dont know if I would spend quite that on one though!

Pete, Depending on the repairs, i would use a local boatyard. The machinery as you will know can all be done by either going to a local company or Mermaid. Thats where Halmatic send all theirs.

As for a price guide to what they charge, well you know those little aluminium strips that hold the tubes on... well they wanted nearly £800 for them, undrilled & unpainted. That was with trade discount - so i will take a set. Not!

We scots are known for being a bit tight though!

Ive put some pics below of a boat we have done recently, getting the rear decks done etc, and that alteration to the engine bay. Ill take another photo when it goes in the water again tomorrow or thursday. The aft engine cover looks quite good with a different hand rail and seats.

Neville · 18 November 2003, 22:27

a pic showing the back end, about 9 - 10 " gained and the engine & box can still be lifted out complete. You can get nearly 2 feet with some more adjustment but it gets cramped , the good thing about these boats is the access to the engine - if you want it.

I would like to point out that the person in the picture above isnt me!

Neville · 18 November 2003, 22:38

engine going in, power upped, fully reworked with new machined pistons etc.

Neville · 18 November 2003, 22:45

another view, didnt drop it Brian! I didnt like the new colour, but I have to admit it looks better. This photo doesnt show the true colour due to bad lighting in our yard. I seem to remember counting the screws and we came to the amount of over 2000!

Just bought a cordless drill for the next one!

Pete7 · 18 November 2003, 23:15

Hope she will go into Halmatic as its an insurance job after being rammed by a yacht. And if they don't, Nev you might have another one to do.

Lifting the console out the way is cheating ! there is at least a weeks work playing with that wiring.

pete

Seb · 30 November 2003, 22:22

Looking for some advice re. the sternpowr outdrive on my P22...

1st sea trial since ive been working on her today but there seems to be some vibrations in the crankshaft/leg...any ideas?

I havent serviced the actual leg as im a beginner to dieseld/outdrives but could it need an oil change?

Any tips or suggestions as to what it could be?

(it has to come out of the water this week anyway to rebuild the prop that i ruined on some 10m of submerged piping today so any work can be done then)

Cheers,

SEB

Pete7 · 01 December 2003, 00:14

Seb, hmm. Changing the oil will be a good idea if you don't know when it was last changed but that will not stop the vibration. Was it caused by damaging the prop ? and was it present when you bought the boat / sea trialed it ?

Did the drive take a knock ? causing the problem ?

Mis-alinment of the engine/gearbox and stern drive is possible, as is worn engine mountings. But try the simple things first before looking at these sort of problems. Best guess its the prop if it wasn't there previously.

Pete

Neville · 01 December 2003, 00:25

Seb, yes changing the oil will be a very good idea if you dont know when it was last done. Very importantly too is the intermediate assembly which is under the back hatch. This needs to have its oil checked frequently and the level screw is below the hatch which needs a hex 'allen' type tool to undo it.

The drive leg has a level plug on the side and gets checked out of the water.

Also remember that the leg needs to be down when in drive, if its up a bit , it will vibrate quite a bit as it twists the universal joints under the rubber gaiter. - oh and these joints need lubricated with a greasegun aswell. The joys of boating!

Seb · 01 December 2003, 14:10

Cheers for that guys- a great help!

Nev, you say that the leg must be right down on its blocks when in drive- does this mean that its not designed to be used as a trimming aid?

If so, this may be the problem. The vibrations were only apparent when the leg was trimmed out in a following sea.

Also, ill try the 2 oil changes in the leg. Any recommendations as to what oil i should use?

Cheers,

SEB

Pete7 · 01 December 2003, 14:43

Seb mine vibrates when she is trimmed up to far as well, but I don't normally need to trim this high. Indeed trimming down is normally needed to help the boat on to the plane with a heavy load. Once going, trimming out a little so the prop is driving horizontal is all that is required, (although the exact position is guesswork because you can't see the drive).

Think the RN boats have a plate which says don't run out of water for more than five minutes or with the trim up.

Once she has had the oils changed and prop repaired just chuck her back in the water with the stern drive horizontal and drive her, she will be fine. These are big heavy ribs. They take alot of weight to upset the balance but also take forever to get on the plane. Part of the price you pay for a very seaworthy boat running on the red stuff instead of petrol.

Pete

Seb · 01 December 2003, 17:13

Thanks again pete!

2 more things you may be able to help me with...?

Is there a nak to getting the prop off? Ive taken the end cone off but it does not simply slide off like i assumed it would. Ive tryed a rubber mallet but with no luck. Any ideas?

Also, once on the plane, the boat runs down on starboard side.

The little 'fin' beneath the cavitatiion plate is directly in line with the keel. Is it offset on yours as i was thinking that this may be the cause? This seems to be stuck solid also!

Cheers,

SEB

Neville · 01 December 2003, 17:39

Seb, the oil used in the leg is hypoid ep 90 or equivilant. The drive doesnt have to be all the way down, but you dont get that much tilt with it before it will vibrate and damage it. Generally the vibrations will remind you to put it down.

Also the oil in the intermediate drive assembly is the same.

With regards to getting the prop off, if you have taken the cone off, the tab locking plate will be off aswell. All you can do is gently knock it with a rubber faced mallot. Try tapping it all round, front and back. You can probably hit it quite hard on the back face of the hub, then gently on the front, near the root of the blades. If it still doesnt come off you can put a small flywheel type puller on the shaft but most of these props have a rubber sanwich in the hub and that might give if too much pressure is put on....... I remember someone once putting his engine in to reverse with the spinner off and that did the job!

Seb · 01 December 2003, 17:44

Sorry guys, any ideas what the standard prop for my boat would be/suggestions...?

Cant see any markings on it at all.

Only problem is that im not quite sure what size the engine is. Think it may have been 'tweeked' as it does 27/8 kts.

SEB