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08 February 2014, 09:40
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe
Boat name: The Black Pig
Make: Ranieri
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60c hp tohatsu
MMSI: 235038018
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
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Fiberglass ideas
Has anyone got any tricks for ss self tapping screws that have pulled through fibreglass?
Larger screws aren't an option as I need the same countersunk size head
Thx
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08 February 2014, 09:54
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#2
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Member
Country: France
Town: Ile de Re
Boat name: Re lax
Make: Piranha 6m
Length: 6m +
Engine: Evinrude 90 hp ETEC
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Black Pig
Has anyone got any tricks for ss self tapping screws that have pulled through fibreglass? Larger screws aren't an option as I need the same countersunk size head Thx
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Mix some fibreglass tape with some epoxy ie West System, wrap it round the screw and force into the hole. Take the screw out before the fibreglass sets. When set drill a hole slightly smaller than the screw. Then insert screw.
Alternatively soak a small bit of sponge in West epoxy and squeeze into hole. Wait to set and then drill.
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09 February 2014, 08:43
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W
Boat name: Danger Donut
Make: 6.0 rib
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner F60efi
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Black Pig
Has anyone got any tricks for ss self tapping screws that have pulled through fibreglass?
Larger screws aren't an option as I need the same countersunk size head
Thx
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You can get marine type inserts made from brass they are about 5mm bigger than the screw you want to use, you drill the hole out to the bigger size hammer these in and use a machine screw instead. They expand like a plasterboard fixing work well in plywood. Ribcraft used to fit them into the deck to hold the front leg of the a frame . http://www.fischer.co.uk/Home/tabid-...roductdetails/
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09 February 2014, 09:19
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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If you can get to the back side of the panel then nut and bolt it
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09 February 2014, 10:54
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Rivnut
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09 February 2014, 18:05
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe
Boat name: The Black Pig
Make: Ranieri
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60c hp tohatsu
MMSI: 235038018
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
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Thanks lads,
I'm not sure which method to use yet as I have time
I can't get to the other side to bolt, the fisher fixing would be good if they open behind like a plasterboard plug.
It's for the pulpit which has worked loose by the kids on the front Of the boat
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09 February 2014, 23:04
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Pulpit fixed to GRP with self-tappers? No wonder they pulled out.
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09 February 2014, 23:49
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Todmorden
Boat name: Twentyfourseven
Make: Zodiac 550 pro open
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 90
MMSI: 235095113
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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[QUOTE=Downhilldai;599747]Rivnut
Can you get them in any other material other that Alis munimul ? they will just dissolve in the salt other wise. I agree though, they are good.
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10 February 2014, 11:16
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,619
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Self Tapping screws are such a pain in the backside, I wish boat builders would stop using them, over time im planning on replacing all self tappers I can on my boat with nut and bolt where im able to. I hate self tappers.
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13 February 2014, 22:54
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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epoxy the hole to a peanut butter thickness mix of epoxy and cabosil or microfibres. if your screw sixze is same as hole size, over drill or file it so theres plety of epoxy to bite.
If you can taper the hole both sides, then it will never ever come out. if you cant get to one side, you could put allen key in a drill poke through hole and scratch off some of the other side, dependant on panel thickness
Its a common praxctive with thru transom fittings, to stop the rot.
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13 February 2014, 23:47
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,047
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You can get Stainless steel rivnuts, I have used them to fit gas struts in the past so they work well in the right application.
Stainless Steel Rivet Nuts
I don't know if I would use them on GRP though...
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14 February 2014, 02:59
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: CA
Make: Zodiac RIB-P
Length: 7m +
Engine: Suzuki 250
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,235
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How about a picture? How much depth do you have to work with? Is there a big enough area to fit a backing plate in then patch it. The pulpit might cover the repair.
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17 February 2014, 17:52
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Liverpool
Length: 10m +
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 239
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Tri-sert
have you looked at these
Trisert 3 - Threaded Inserts for Aluminium
We use these on commercial and military craft
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